Fig brebas, embryonic figs beginning to swell. Often, many if not most drop. I hope that most will stay this year.

One view of front border. The white flowers are "Stella" cherry.

A view of backyard orchard. I don't know the cherry varieties.

Backyard orchard culture. Trees in Bloom

We're now in the "second wave" of blossoms in our backyard-orchard-culture "orchard". The apricots have finished blooming - I don't know, the frost may have killed branches and prevented fruit set, we'll see. If the trees die, that's it - no more attempts at apricots. They are not well suited for this climate.

The peaches have a few blossoms now, but are leafing out. Soon, I'll want to dig up the peach seedling and find a better location for it to grow into a tree. As a nongrafted, seedling, genetic dwarf, it's a complete gamble. If nothing else, they have beautiful flowers.

The plums are done as well. It's too soon to see if fruit set - with some of the cold nights in the past month, it's possible they didn't. This is only their second leaf, so any fruit would be a surprise.

Asian Pear, 3-way graft. Oh, it will be so great if a few fruits set. Not too many - it's only in its second leaf. The flowers are lovely.

The 5-way European pear. This year we'll thin more. It's developing a nice spur structure, repeat clusters of blossoms. Responding very well to the backyard culture method of summer pruning to hold to size, which means no standing on ladders is needed.

Awesome clusters of cherry blossoms. Some are in full bloom, others not quite there yet. Again, the sweet cherries are responding very well to the pruning philosophy. I really didn't know if it would work. It's working great for these trees. This tree was allowed to grow a bit too tall for backyard orchard culture, but before it got out of hand I pruned it back. It's a 3-way graft, so pollinates itself. I usually play the bee and travel among blossoms with a paintbrush, but it's too rainy for that. I hope the real bees do the job.

More sweet cherries.


Another experiment, this one in its infancy. These are seedlings, from wild cherries collected last fall. The wild cherries grow very tall, too tall to be practical in a yard. Why not see if they can be kept compact by severe pruning? I don't know if it's possible, but if it is, we would have wild cherries within reach, and fruiting at a time when other cherries are done. These are just beginning life - who knows how many years this will take.

What's blooming?

Daffodils
These have grown undisturbed for 8 years.

Quince

Forsythia. This is the forsythia that I grew from a discarded stick, picked up while walking the dogs. Turned out nice. The location is shaded, NOrth of the house, but it is coming into its own.

Closeup of Sunny Delight peach.

Sunny Delight peach

Chinese Mormon Apricot.

Hollywood plum. this is the second year of growth - I wonder if the blossoms will set?

Honeybabe Peach

Trilite peach.

None of the peach trees appear harmed at all by the plastic wrapping method. I haven't sprayed a second time. I have a 6 inch tall peach seedling, slearly offspring from one of the genetic dwarf peaches, that has been growing for 2 years. It has not been treated wtih leaf curl prevention, and it does have leaf curl. So far, the other peach trees appear free of the disease. It is too early to say for certain.

Other developments:
The wild cherry seeds that I planted last summer are grown into 2 inch tall plants. I removed 3 to flower pots. The long term goal is super-pruning them like the other trees, in the style of "Backyard Orchard Culture". Can it be done? I don't know. Everything is a gamble.

The pear buds have opened into clusters of flower buds, but the flowers themselves are not yet open.

Last sunday I also went around with a little paintbrush, taking pollen from flower to flower among the peaches, then between the twp apricot trees, then between the plum trees. The Shiro plum has just 4 flowers, so who knows if it will fruit. The Hollywood plum is said to be self fruitful, and has many more flowers. It would be cool to have a crop of plums, second year after planting the tree. The peaches are also said to be self fruitful, but playing the bee shouldn't hurt anything. A few apricot flowers fell off while I was pollinating. That may mean it't too late to make a difference. We'll see.

Garden Resolutions 2010

Working on garden resolutions to mark New Year's 2010. It's a good time for resolutions and plans. Starting with the challenges and successes of 2009, what changes should we make?

Challenges - much of the garden had to be neglected, especially during summer and fall. The limited time for the garden meant there were more weeds, it looked more untidy, and there was lost opportunity for mental rejuvenation. By planning ahead, I hope to reduce some maintenance and have a better looking an more productive yard.

During the winter months, there isn't much to do with the growing plants. However, I can get in more pruning, so it won't have to happen when the garden is busier. In addition, I can get beds cleaned up and mulched. One challenge is the cat(s) using much for litter box. I don't mind, but digging up the mulch results in more weeds. Maybe chicken wire covering the mulch? Haven't decided.

This year the tomatoes, my favorite crop, were poor producers. This may have been due to planting the tomato bed too many years in a row - probably 5 years. So they'll be moved. We'll build new raised beds on the South side of the house, add chicken compost, and these will be designated tomato beds. This is also a warmer and sunnier location, so there will be benefit in microclimate as well.

The peaches were the best ever, but I left too many on the trees. Lesson learned, thin them early to 1 or 2 per 6-inch stem. Same for apples.

Garden Resolutions, 2010:

1. I resolve to continue the tradition of normal New Year's grape pruning (note to spine: please cooperate. Up movements seem OK, it's typing, like now, that's killing me). The pruning will be more extensive this year, to limit # of grape bunches. There were too many in 2009. Limiting #s should mean larger, juicier grapes.

2. I resolve to complete rose pruning in January. This is normally delayed for later, but my neighbor's roses do fine with this early pruning, so it's time to get it out of the way so that there are fewer things to do in Spring. If this kills a rose bush or 2 or 3.... well, that's more room to try something new.

3. I resolve to insert barriers around raspberries (for spreading branbles). and at least one fig tree (for roots). These barriers will mean less maintenance to control invasive vines and roots.

4. I resolve to get everything ready for tomato seedlings, during the winter. That way, if it's busy when time to plant the seeds, all that I will need to do is actually plant the seeds. Less delay, better potential crop.

5. I resolve to improve hardscaping with better edging in front yard, to keep out weeds.

6. Based on what went well, the peaches are already covered with plastic. I intend to use last year's blog post to guide in removal of cover.

7. New fruits: as discussed previously, I have already determined locations for mulberry and the 2 additional miniature apple trees.

8. I resolve to make another attempt at apple grafting. Last year was not successful. I think part of the reason was the scions were transported at room temperature for >24 hours. If I can get some mid winter, I'll plan to transport them on ice. Alternatively, there may be some local trees to graft. My "neighbor tree" graft had excellent tasting, although small, apples this year. I could use more of those.

9. I resolve to pause with a day or 2 off work, at least every other month, planned ahead, truly set aside for self regeneration. If I can, a week off to stay at home.

10. I resolve to revisit this list later, for further plans and adjustments.

Book Review #2. "Backyard Fruits and Berries"

After giving a barely lukewarm review of another book (click on label "Book Reviews", I wanted to choose a book that I felt more positive about. Here is one. Others are expected to follow.

Again, this book covers the subject of the title. Backyard Fruits and Berries, by Miranda Smith. I bought it locally, but it was not at the bookstore when I looked last week. Available on Amazon.com here.

This is a well packaged book with lots of drawings and photos - a benefit for me. The initial chapters discuss placement of fruit trees, preparation of the site before planting, digging the hole, and planting the trees. The illustration on page 35 is in line with my understanding of how trees should be planted, and shows the concept well. There are chapters on tree care, including mulching, pruning, training. Some of the illustrated techniques are appropriate for the Backyard Orchardist, such as fan-shape, cordon, and espalier, but no discussion of the Backyard Orchard Culture method, including summer pruning, close planting, and maintaining small size. That concept (click on labels for Backyard Orchard Culture, and Dave Wilson Nurseries) is probably just too new for wide publication in books. I mention it here because I expect it to be central to home fruit growers in the future.

There is also a section on grafting. This is great! Also, propagating by cuttings. Any book that empowers the backyard gardener to grow their own, choosing varieties based on their neighbor's or family's experiences, is welcomed. For the avid home orchardist, to share their favorite varieties, and to try new ones by grafting or cuttings, even if they don't know the variety's name, is very welcome.

The sections on disease and insect control are rich with photos, and organically-inclined. Also a plus. I don't like reading about insects and disease damage, because it makes me wonder how we get any fruit at all - but we do, and it's great to see the organic approach.

Fruit specific sections include the usuals, and some unusuals, including apples, apricots, cherries, citrus, figs, pears, plums, and many types of vines and berries.
It includes Asian pears, which I think are an "up and coming fruit" for the home gardener. The plum varieties include European and Asian as well. Sour and sweet cherries are discussed separately - a sensible division given that there are some cultural differences.

The one drawback is already mentioned - Some day we'll need a book which emphasizes summer pruning, multi-tree-in-one-hole methods, and overall philosophy of Backyard Orchard Culture also here. This would include experiences outside of the area where this concept originated, because what works in California may not work, or may require other nuances, elsewhere.

I couldn't find a section on multigraft trees. Many books discourage multigraft, because one variety often overpowers the others. However, the small home orchard is based partly on more involved management, including pruning, and the multigraft may be the best, least expensive, and most reasonable way to have multiple varieties and polinator trees, in a small space. That oversight is minor.

I give "Backyard Fruits and Berries" an "A". It is one of my favorites.

Book Review: "The Fruit Expert"

I like reading books about gardening methods. The different books all have their pros and cons. Looking at the local bookstores, the garden sections seems to be getting smaller, so it's useful to have a bibliography of useful books. Amazon isn't the same as browsing through a book, it's difficult to tell what you might get.

So here's a review of one that I use from time to time. "The Fruit Expert" by Dr. D.G. Hessayon

Availability: This book is currently available at Amazon.com. I don't know current availability at bookstores.

Copyright: 2004

This book is written for the British gardener / home orchardist, although I found many sections useful for my own, Pacific NW garden. It is organized by the fruit type, and includes a forward on planting and an afterward on fruits that can be purchased from the store.

The planting method appears to match with other resources, although the author recommends a planting mix of soil+peat+bone meal. I think that current literature recommends not amending the soil, or not amending it much, because over-rich and over-loose planting mixture can lead to a 'flowerpot-effect', keeping the roots inside the hole and leading to a swampy soggy pocket in the hole. I have never seen that happen either, but now I only add minimal amendment to my planting mix.

Fruit varieties: The author discusses most of the major fruit types, including apple, apricot, cherries, pears, figs, plums, peaches, berries, and soft fruits or berries. The varieties won't generally be appropriate to the American gardener. The pruning section is "OK" but does not discuss summer pruning or backyard orchard culture, which I think is essential for the backyard gardener. The fig section was discouraging, probably due to limited usefullness in the UK. There is nothing on Asian Plums or Asian Pears. I don't know if these grow in the UK. The disease section contains many useful photos. This is not a book for the organically minded.

Overall grade: "C". Interesting for a book that is labeled "The world's best selling book on fruit". The photos are nice to look at. The planting method does not appear up to date. The pruning methods are not up to date or the best for the backyard gardener. The varieties are not useful to the American gardener.

I didn't realize until now, how poor this book is. I actually get it out and read it now and then, but there are better resources for either the novice or the expert.

Neck Pain / Daydreaming about garden chores

Last week I developed a neck pain, typical for disk protrusion. This is like a sensation of toothache, extending down to the right hand, and numbness in 2 fingers. It should gradually improve, I know that. Meanwhile, it is severe enough to occupy my thoughts at all moments.

Trying to daydream a bit to get my mind off from this development. Jan 1st is usually pruning day for grapes. I hope it's better by then.

Also still need to to some yard cleanup, neglected like a lot of things this year.

Basically, 2009 was not so great. The backyard orchard did fairly well, but many other aspects of the yard were neglected, and other parts of life left to languish. I hope that 2010 will be better. We can always hope. I can resolve not to keep putting off the good things in life, to take care of today's "crises" and demands, but I already know how that will go.

I got the winter onions planted 3 weeks ago. Garlic still not planted. Last week temp dropped to 12 F in the backyard - I think that's the coldest day in my yard in 10 years.

Typing is painful too, so will stop now. Need to keep thinking about new projects - ordered trees, Illinois Mulberry, Karmijn de Sonnaville apple (highly flavored Dutch variety), Belmac apple (disease resistant Mac-type apple) and maybe, if lucky, a taste of fruit from the 1-year old trees that I planted last winter.

Karmijn de Sonnaville Apple(from Raintree): This intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland measures the highest in both sugars and acids. A triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan, it is the favorite of many, however, it is so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. Put this excellent winter keeper in a box when it ripens in mid October and wait about a month for the complex mellow flavors to start shining through. A vigorous grower and somewhat scab resistant...

Belmac Apple(from Raintree): This wonderful new productive all purpose Canadian cultivar combines flavor and keeping ability with cold and disease resistance. The sweet, medium to large deep red apples ripen in late September/early October and keep three months or more. Like its parent Spartan, it has a delicious sweet/tart McIntosh flavor. It resists scab, mildew, and cedar apple rust. It thrives in eastern Canada and has also proven a winner in Western Washington.. Bred by Dr. Shahrokh Khanizadeh in Quebec and introduced in 1996.

Illinois Everbearing Mulberry (from Raintree): (Morus alba x rubra) This grafted tree is hardy to -30 deg.F. It sometimes starts producing the first year after planting and bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide that look like elongated blackberries. The fruit has a delicious distinctive flavor. The berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name. The fruit is red and turns black when ripe. Illinois Everbearing will grow to 35 feet tall but it is easily pruned and kept much smaller. Each is self-fertile.

As with the rest of the yard, These will be trained and pruned according to the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method. The apples are on super-dwarfing M27 rootstock. I haven't seen the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method applied to mulberries - in fact, I've so rarely seen mulberries, I don't quite know what to expect. But so far, the method is working out well for the other trees, so I think it should work for these as well. Plus, keeping the mulberry pruned to small size should allow for netting to prevent excessive bird-thievery.

What's up in the Kitchen Garden?

Ning's happy about his cherry tree producing so many cherries.

This is about half of the cherry crop. Yum!

Lots of stuff in bloom now.

Strawberries - Getting about a pound every day.
Raspberries - A bowl full daily now.
Tomatoes - All in bloom now.
Figs - The few brebas are getting larger, not there yet.
Peaches - I'm wondering if I should have thinned more. They are weighing down the tree branches! WIll need to get some supports soon.
cherries - I also summer pruned them. CUt most new growh back to 6 inches to a foot, in most cases leaving the first tuft of leaves pluys a few. Most of the removed growth was about 2 feet in length.

Cherries are starting to bloom.

Hyacinths and daffodils are blooming. These hve been in place for 3 years. The hyacinths are multiplying, which I think is cool. In the past they just died out.

Forsythia. This is 4 years from the original, tiny 4inch cutting. The cutting had been salvaged from a piece that I found on the street while walking the dogs. It's on the north side of the house, so probably not as full as it could be.

First cherries to bloom. Pruned by the extreme "backyard orchard culture" method. If all of the flowers result in cherries, we'll have a lot.

Rootstocks

Looking into backyard orchard culture information, I want to keep track of my rootstocks. I'm not sure if this information will be useful, but if I don't put it here, I wont have it. This information is not available for most of our existing trees, unless I kept the labels somewhere. Here are a few that I found:

Hollywood Plum - Marianna 2624
Shiro Plum - Marianna 2624
Surefire Cherry - Gisela 5
Combo Asian Pear - OHF97

Prior trees, if current catalog info is still correct -

El Dorado Peach - Lovell
Tri-Lite Peach-plum - Lovell

I have recepits that show:

Liberty Apple - M27
Jonagold Apple - M27
Garden Gold Peach - Lovell
Flavor Delight APrium - Citation

According to Raintree, Lovell is a "seed-grown standard peach rootstock has proven dependable and may develop a longer lived tree with better disease resistance and hardiness than other peach rootstocks. " Dave Wilson Nurseries states that Lovell is "slightly more resistant to wet conditions than Nemaguard but prefers well-drained soils, slightly more resistant to bacterial canker than Nemaguard" but also "susceptible to root-knot and root-lesion nematodes and to oak-root fungus, some what susceptible to bacterial canker"

According to fruitforum.net, Gisela 5 is a rootstock of choice for growers and makes a compact tree for gardens, although that information referred to sweet cherries.

According to the Dave Wilson Nurseries label, Citation"Resists root-knot nematodes. Induces heavy bearing at a young age. Trees on Citation may be held to any desired height by summer pruning"

As for the Marianna, Dave Wilson Nurseries states "slightly dwarfing, moderately resistant to Phytophthora crown and root rot and oak root fungus, tolerates wet soils, root-knot nematode resistant" but tends to lean, shallow roots the first few years, very susceptible to bacterial canker... susceptible to crown gall..." Raintree states "It will produce a semidwarf tree maintained from 10 to 15 feet tall. It does very well on wet soils and tolerates a variety of soils. It is compatible as an understock for plums, peaches and some almonds and apricots."

Dave Wilson Nurseries states that OHF-97 "...vigorous, widely adapted, disease-resistant. Winter hardy, tolerant of wet soils."

More links, compact orchards for the backyard

Thanks to contributers on the Gardenweb fruit forum, here is another link to a backyard orchard:

Tony's compact orchard

Also, below is an informative infomercial on compact backyard orchard trees from the UK. There's a bit of the "But wait, there's more" syndrome, but it's still interesting and instructive.

Backyard Orchard Culture: Dave Wilson Nurseries

Here is a you-tube video from the Dave Wilson Nursery in California. This is the method that I am trying to use in my yard as well - they call it "Backyard Orchard Culture". Backyard Orchard Culture means more trees, smaller size, so that we can have a harvest with more variety in a smaller space, extending over a longer period of time in a normal sized backyard. Trees are planted close together. That method requires more severe pruning, especially summer pruning.

High Density Fruit Tree Planting:



Also see the gardening links to the right for more information.

The trees are kept to about 5 to 8 feet tall, so no ladder is needed for harvest. The branches are kept open enough to allow sunlight into the center. Summer pruning is more effective at limiting size, compared to dormant pruning. I hope that this will be our first really good year for the 3 and 4 year old trees to bear.

Pruning method:



Fig trees may take some different variations - we'll keep working on the technique.

"Gene's Backyard Orchard" Web Site Review #1.

Here is a site that visits Gene and his backyard orchard, in a Chicago Suburb.

Gene has been growing dwarf apples in his yard since 1983. He has 93 varieties of apples in a 2,500 sq foot yard. He keeps them pruned and maintained to a mini-dwarf size - generally, smaller than our fruit trees (although similar to our mini-dwarf apples).

Visting his web site, I get the feeling that I'm visiting a real person's yard. It would be fun to follow him around the yard and hear what he has to say about the individual varieties, and talk about his grafting technique and what works, and what doesnt.

He's not organic, but does pay some attention to avoiding spraying when bees are present. He tells us how he knows that an apple is ripe. He describes why his beds are geometric, squares instead of circles.

This is the kind of folksy, 'next door neighbor' site that I especially like to read. It's kind of an old posting. On a news story link from the the midwest fruit grower's site, he states that he now has 176 varieties.

This also has me thinking - with a California Rare Fruit Grower's association, and a similar association in the midwest (see link above), maybe we need a backyard fruit growers association in the Maritime Pacific Northwest. Hmmmmm.