More Seeds Planted. 5.12.15

Seed starting stand, sunroom.  5.12.15

This weekend and today I planted more seeds.  Now into the more warm-requiring types.

I'm not accustomed to planting squashes and corn indoors in containers.  That may be needed here due to cool spring season soil and temps.  Yesterday and today are cool and rainy.

I have planted most of the winter squash seeds, the summer squashes, green and yellow zucchinis.

Today I planted sweet corn, Trinity Hybrid, sold as a cool tolerant, early bearing variety that may work here.

LaCrosse Seed lists Trinity as "Trinity is a homozygous sugary enhancer bicolor with a clean compact plant, refined ear and good husk protection."  Purdue states, Sugar enhancer sweet corn "has a higher sugar content and is more tender than standard sweet corn" also "Isolation Requirements All sweet corn types should be isolated from field corn pollen by a distance of 250 ft. or by a tasseling date of 14 days. Supersweet (sh2 ) varieties must be isolated from standard (su) and sugar-enhanced (se) types by a distance of 250 ft. or by a tasseling date of 14 days. If not isolated, kernels of both varieties will be starchy instead of sweet.".  There is no nearby field corn.  I also have seed for Early Sunglow Hybrid which is an su type.  Continuing, "It is not essential to isolate sugar-enhanced (se) sweet corn from standard sweet corn: cross-pollination will not result in starchy kernels. However, isolation will permit the full expression of the sugar-enhanced traits. To maintain purity of color, white corn should be isolated from yellow or bi-color corn. Pollen from yellow or bi-color corn will cause some yellow kernels in white varieties. Pollen from yellow corn will lead to extra yellow kernels in bi-color varieties. Pollen from white corn will not affect yellow or bi-color varieties"  So I may decide to either plant the Early Sunglow 2 weeks later, or distant from the Trinity.  Complicated.

Seed starting. 4.2.15

Seed Starting.  4.2.15

Much as I wanted to use recycled or recyclable containers, such as little paper cups, I didn't have the energy.  This setup with very thin walled plastic 6-packs, for 72 seedlings, was inexpensive.  I've planted tomato seeds from last winter's order, and peppers, some basil, and some marigolds.  More to follow.

I also placed okra seeds and four o'clock seeds in cups of water to soak for a day.  I can plant the seeds tomorrow night.

It's still too early for a lot of types of seeds. 

Starting Morning Glory and Hollyhock Seeds. Also some deck Plants. 6.19.14

Morning Glory Seeds at 2 days.  6.19.14

Hollyhock Seeds Sprouting at 2 days..  6.19.14

 The seeds toweesprouted quickly on the heating mat.  I read it can require weeks.  These were soaked in water for about 12 hours, then placed on moist paper towel in ziplock bags.  The bags are sealed and set on the heating mat.  This morning I saw they were sprouted, so added a little more water.

Now I filled plastic flowerpots most of the way with potting soil.  Watered the soil.  Placed the sprouts on the soil.  If the root was long, I gently made a hole for the root with my finger.  Then barely covered them and gently watered.

The temp outside is 60s night, about 80 day.  They are on the north side of the house so they don't overheat.

I think the black ribbed Japanese eggplant makes a nice decorative plant.

The black calla lily is about 3 years old.  I overwintered it by letting the container dry out, then placed in garage in October before first frost.  Super easy.

Japanese Eggplant.  6.19.14

Black Calla Lily.  6.19.14

The four O'clocks are almost blooming.  They have little hint of color in the flower buds.  Might need another week of warm temps.

Flower Seeds in June. 6.17.14

 I started some flower seeds today.  I read hollyhocks should be started in summer to fall, for next year's blooms.  I saw these by accident at Lowes.  They are Alcea rosea varieties, which may mean they get a lot of rust here.  I have room for several varieties.

These are Carnival mix.  I also started a packet of Fordham Giant. 

I soaked them about 12 hours, then placed them on moist paper towel, then into zip lock bags.  That method worked nicely for 4 O'clocks and okra.

Doing the same for morning glories.  This is Zeeland Hybrid mix.  Might be too late to start them.  If I don't try, I won't know.

They are on a seed starting heating mat.  Same as I did for seeds this winter.

Seed Starting. 4.16.14

Okra.  all of the seeds have germinated.  The first were Burgundy.  They germinated in one day.  North + South hybrid were 2nd, even though the seeds were about 5 years old.  Every container now has germinated okra seedlings.

Four O'Clocks.  All but one of the containers have seedlings.  I think the germination rate was around 30%.  Some have 2 sets of true leaves, some are at cotyledon stage.  If more than one germinate per container I separate them.  They seem fairly durable for seedlings.  Acclimating the larger ones to outdoors, north side of house out of full sun, during the day.

Tomatoes.  The rootstock seedlings have yet to germinate.  Those are one year old.  The Lemon Boy container has one seedling.  Age of seeds - maybe 6 years?  Guessing.

I'm becoming more conservative with tomato varieties.  Thinking mainly grow the proven ones. Today I started  Lemon Boy, Better Boy, and Supersweet 100 will be this year's mainstays.  If I can find seeds or plants, Sungold.  Then a plant or two to experiment with, Cherokee Black - I always try, they are good, but now I'm back to liking the big red ones better.  Also, Italian Heirloom, Mexican Midget, and a few others but mostly the mainstays.  Tomato seeds are in 4 inch pots on the heating mat.

Peppers.  Winding down from the "starting" phase.  I putted up some plants into larger containers.  Maybe keep them containerized and keep one or two in containers I can keep in the sunroom next winter.  Setting larger ones outside as for the four o'clocks to acclimate.

Home Made CFL Plant Light Fixture. 3.22.14

Parts for Home Made Plant Light Fixture

These are the parts for the home made plant light fixture.  There are videos on youtube by several authors.  I don't know which one originated it.  The video I watched was praxxus55712, very well explained.

6X24 round pipe	3.98
1/4 inch diameter, 12 inch long threaded bar price for 2	2.02
23 watt CFL price for 2	8.28
wing nut 1/4" price for 4	1.21
hex nut 1/4" price for 5	0.97
bedroom light fixture	7.98
extension cord 8'	6.97
Sum	31.41

I forgot washers.  I bought those and 2 eye bolts for hanging the fixture.  That's about $2 more.  I could have used a cord I had lying around.  That would reduce the cost by $7.  If I shopped around I might have found a cheaper light fixture too.

Holes drilled in pipe, inside nuts and washers screwed onto threaded rods

So far very easy.  Looking at the original, maybe I should have found longer rods.  These should be OK.

Drilling the holes for the threaded rods and assembling them took about 10 minutes.

The I pondered for a week how to assemble the unit with the bedroom light kit.  The reflector is curved.  The light kit rests on a flat surface.  I finally decided to assemble it as-is.  The center of the reflector flattened to accommodate  the bedroom light kit, which is fine.

I added eye hooks at the end to hang the unit from my plant stand.

THe CFL lights are100-watt equivalent, 23-watt CFL bulbs.  Estimated energy cost per year is $2.77.   Lumens 1,600 per bulb.  These are bright-white.  I don't know if it matters, bright-white vs. daylight.  Anything I use seems to work OK.

One issue I got wrong.  I've been trying to figure out what type of bulb, daylight, bright white, soft white.  I bought bright white.  Searching around artificial light growing sites, I should have bought daylight.  2700k - bright white - is good for flowering - probably why my peppers are flowering.  6,500k - daylight - are better for growing.  From the linked site " for example with tomatoes you would want to use a 6500k bulb until your ready to start the flowering stage of your tomato plants".

I may add aluminum foil to the ends to reflect light back into the unit.

Assembled CFL Grow Light

Assembled CFL Grow Light

CFL Grow Light

Fig Cuttings. Seedlings. Progress Report. 1.21.14

Carini fig start

 This is the plant start progress report for figs, peppers, and okra.

The little Carini start is growing nicely.  This was a low branch with a piece of root pictured previously.  I was concerned about whether that tree survived the hard freeze.  This start is alive.  So I think that means the tree is alive too.  At least the base.  So  I have a backup in case the tree died.  Also optimism that the tree didn't die.  Even if the top is frost killed, it might grow back more quickly from roots, than I could get from a new cutting.

Dominick Fig start

Plant starts under the light Jan 21 2014

 The Dominick cuttings are growing nicely.  This is the largest and fastest.  As in others, cuttings with no terminal bud grew faster than cuttings with a terminal bud.

MacOol fig cutting

Red Portugal pepper seedlings

 The collection under lights.  Now on a 14-hour timer.

Baby Bubba Okra seedling

MacOol cutting.  From a generous fig forum member.  This was a small cutting.  Possibly the variety is less vigorous, as well.  Roots growing nicely.  The top is not growing yet.  I potted it today, with the top under the lights.  Maybe that will stimulate top growth.









Red Portugal pepper seedlings.  They look nice.  The Tabasco peppers had lower germination, only 2 and of those only one looks vigorous.  not as much as these.

















Okra seedlings.  They don't look happy about their situation.  This method might not work for them.  Will continue to care for them.  This is "Baby Bubba".

Thinking about a Sun Room. 1.11.14

Front Of House

Front Of House

This is the West-facing side of the house.  To the right is South, to the left is North.  The squarish window with 4 panes opens from the dining room.  I think that would be a good place for a sun room.  Replace that window with a patio door or french door.  The sunroom could be about 100 to 150 square feet.  Big enough for plants all around, for starting tomatoes and peppers, okra, figs....  flowers...  and overwintering cacti and orchids.    Maybe even overwinter a large chili pepper plant.  There might be room for the Meyer Lemon - currently bearing - and kumquat.  Wow - I just filled up the sunroom, and it's not even designed yet.

I was thinking greenhouse, but sunroom might contribute to solar heating in winter.  Or might not be efficient, but would be more protected than a greenhouse, and I could sit in the sunroom and ponder, putter, and stew.

There's a home remodeling show in portland in 2 weeks.  It would take my mind off the impending scan....

Seed Organizing. Old Seeds.

Organized garden seed collection.

I organized the garden seed collection.  The packets were in boxes and scattered in drawers.  Some are old and may be dead.  There are multiple examples of multiple packets of the same or similar variety.  Wasteful on my part.

Now they are organized.  Each envelope is labeled with a category, such as Okra, Tomatoes, Peppers, Carrots & Radishes & Root vegetables, Squashes & Pumpkins, etc.  That way I can look in the envelope and see what I have.  For some I can do direct comparisons of different varieties this year, and see if there is a difference.

I should plant some of the oldest ones first this year.  Then if I have newer examples of the same variety, it should be good for next year.

Over the years I have germinated some pretty old seeds.  As I recall, some tomato seeds more than 5 years old, and some peppers more than 10 years old.  They are not in ideal seed storage conditions, just the house and some downstairs where it is cooler.

Bottom line is I have some old seeds to try.  I can plant old seeds and new seeds together, and compare the results.

This website "The Garden Bench" gives some expectations:

2 years: Sweet corn, lettuce, parsley, peppers, chard.
3 years: Bush and pole beans, carrots, cucumbers, melons, peas, squashes, tomatoes.
4: Radishes, turnips.
Seeds of annual flowers: 1 – 3 years
Seeds of perennials: 2 – 4 years.

From Gardening Know How - 
Corn and peppers - 2 years
Beans, peas, tomatos, carrots - 4 years
Cucumber, lettuce - 6 years

Tomatodirt.com-
Tomato seeds, depending on how stored and how germinated, can last 4 to 7 years, up to 10 years, and an expert has germinated 22 year old seeds.

Seedsavers forum discussion on germinating old seeds - they report using an organice nitrogen fertilizer soak, to improve germination.  Beans at 6 years old and cotton at 12 years old.  Tomatoes at 20 years old.

This writer reports seeds that were frozen for a couple of years, then stored in a cool room for about 10 years.  There was germination of at least a few, for most varieties.  That included tomatoes, brassicas, squash, cucumbers, peas, beans, and others.  Probably better than my storage conditions, but also longer.

From the Argonne National Laboratory website -
 "The Garden Dictionary lists corn, dandelion, onion, and parsnip seeds as having an average viability of two years. Beet, carrot, lettuce, squash, turnip, and watermelon seeds remain viable for an average of 5 or 6 years but under ideal conditions may exceed 10 years. Cucumber and endive seeds are good for 10 years at least."

From Iowa State University-

How long will vegetable seeds last if stored properly? -

Seed Type	Years	Seed Type	Years
Asparagus	3	Muskmelons	5
Beans	3	Onions	1
Beets	4	Peas	3
Broccoli	5	Peppers	2
Cabbage	5	Pumpkins	4
Carrots	3	Radishes	5
Cauliflower	5	Spinach	5
Corn	2	Squash	4
Cucumbers	5	Tomatoes	4
Lettuce	5	Watermelons	4

From 'Dirt Happy" website -

Estimated longevity of vegetable seeds, under good storage conditions.
5 years	4 years	3 years	2 years	1 year
Collards	Beets	Asparagus	Corn, sweet	Onion
Corn salad (mache)	Brussels Sprouts	Beans	Leek	Parsley
Cress	Cabbage	Broccoli	Okra	Parsnip
Cucumber	Cauliflower	Cabbage, Chinese	Pepper	Salsify
Endive	Chard, Swiss	Carrot		Scorzonera
Lettuce	Chicory	Celeriac
Muskmelon (Cantaloupe)	Eggplant	Celery
Spinach *	Kale	Kohlrabi
	Pumpkin	New Zealand Spinach
	Radish	Pea
	Rutabaga
	Sorrel
	Squash
	Tomato
	Turnip
	Watermelon

Planting & Garden Calendar for my Maritime NW Kitchen Garden

Kitchen Garden Calendar for 2013. 
I feel more connected to nature this year.  I hope that continues.  It's a rewarding feeling.
This calendar may be changed as I add more info.  It gets me off to a start.

This info from the book "Seed to Seed" by Suzanne, Ashworth.  The focus of the book is growing for kitchen garden, with seed saving in mind.  The organization is by plant type.  I've taken the info on kitchen garden plants that interest me, stuck the the Maritime Pacific NW, and organized as a Calendar for planning.  Since the chart is based on planting for seed saving, I may vary widely from it to plant for kitchen use.  The book gives planting times for each region of the US.  There can be variability based on local micro climates.

I also added:
Info in Italics from Oregon State University Extension Service.
Info in blue is from Rodale "Gardener to Gardener:  Almanac and Pest Control Primer" for Zone 8.  I'm not sure I agree with the info, but these are just guides.  Also, Zone 8 in one place is not the same as Zone 8 in another place.
Some sources contradict with others.

Here are some frost dates from climate-charts.com for Battleground WA:

First Frost			Last Frost
10%	50%	90%	10%	50%	90%
SEP 27	OCT 13	OCT 29	APR 07	APR 24	MAY 12

Also from Humeseeds.com
Average last frost date is May 2.  Safe date, when there is only 10% change for frost, is May 23

Battle Ground

May 2

May 23

January.
Take hardwood cuttings of shrubs or trees for propagation.
(Also collect scion wood for grafting.)
Sow beets carrots radishes bok choy and garden peas directly in garden, cover with dark compost to keep them warmer.
Sow seeds of herbs such as dill or parsley.

February.
Plant seeds of cole crops indoors.
Plant seeds of snow peas and garden peas outdoors.  Is this why they are snow peas?
3rd week of Feb, plant potatos 4" deep in dark soil.
Start sowing seeds for leaf lettuce and other greens every 2 weeks.
Plant alyssum seeds.
Mid Month.  Prune roses. 
Apply compost to trees and shrubs.

March.
When soil is consistently above 40F, can plant onions, kale, lettuce, and spinach.
Divide hostas, daylilies, mums.
Graft fruit trees and ornamentals.
Plant carrots, beets, broccoli, leeks, parsley, chives, rhubarb, radish.
Mid to late March:  Plant seeds for corn, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers.  (This must be indoors.)
Plant marigolds, petunias, snapdragons.(unclear if this is plants or seeds)

March 20 to April 1.
Plant pepper seeds indoors.

March 20 to April 10: 
Plant chive seeds
Plant garlic chive seeds
Plant broccoli seeds.  Row cover needed for pest control.
Plant cauliflower seeds.  Row cover.
Plant Chinese cabbage.  Row cover.
Plant radish seeds.  Row cover.
Plant Lettuce seeds.
Plant pea seeds and snow pea seeds.
Plant potato eyes,.
Plant dill seeds.
Plant Jerusalem artichokes.  Book states, seeds at this time.  I will have roots to plant.

April.
When soil temp is consistently above 60F, can plant beans and sweet corn.
(I don't think that's likely)
Plant okra, sweet potatoes, squash, melons, cucumbers, corn, basil, 

April 1:
Plant spinach seeds.

April 1-20:
Plant tomato seeds indoors.
Plant basil seeds indoors.

April 20:
Plant sunflower seeds.

May 5:  Average last frost date.

May:  (Unsure, but this may be when to take softwood cuttings for some shrubs or trees.  Some references state June or July)

May:
Plant tomatos, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, squash, okra, beans, sweet potatoes, melons.
Plant daisies, coreopsis, marigolds, sunflowers.

May 10-20:
Plant corn seeds.

May 20:
Plant cucumber seeds,
Plant bean seeds.

May 15 to June 15:
Plant parsley seeds.

May 20 to June 1:
Plant tomato plants outside.
Plant Pepper plants outside.
Plant basil plants outside.

May 23:  Frost "safe date".

June:
Plant geraniums, marigolds.
Plant iris, cannas, dahlias, daylilies.
Continue planting cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, okra, summer squash, sweet potatoes, bush beans.
Thin fruit on fruit trees
Mulch fruit trees with compost and organic mulch.

June 1-10:
Plant watermelon seeds.
Plant other melon seeds.

July:
Continue planting tomatoes, peppers, eggplants.
Don't overstimulate plants that need dormancy, with water or feeding.
Keep plantings mulched to retain water.

June 15-July 15:
Plant carrot seeds.

July 15:
Start Beet, Cabbage, Kale, Kohlrabi, or Collard seeds.
Plant Scorzonera

Sept 5:
Plant turnip seeds.

Sept 15 to Oct 1:
Plant spinach seeds to overwinter.

This covers the majority of our vegetables. 

According to the book, sweet potatoes and okra cannot be grown in maritime NW.  I will try short season varieties anyway.

Testing Seeds

I have a lot of seeds from previous years. There is more planting room this year. I want to test some of them for viability, use them if they are viable. It's early. I can test a few at a time. In the past I used gallon-size ziploc bags, drew a grid on paper towel, and had many varieties per bag. This time I'm using sandwich size bags but otherwise similar.

Just 4 varieties per bag.  This is Cherry Belle radish (2012) , Taiwan Sugar Pea (2012), Parisian Market Carrot (no date - 2010?), and Roma II bean (2009).  They are all from 2012 so should be OK.

The beans labeled "Ning's Beans" must be 6 years old.  A Chinese bean.  It will be nice if they grow.  Not counting on it.

Scarlet Nantes carrot (2010), Della Fave pole bean (2012), Scallop bush squash (2008), and French Breakfast radish (2010).  I think the squash are 2010, no year on label.  The others are 2011.

All ziplocs are now on the heating mat.  I didn't count seeds.  If a few grow, or a lot grow, I'll try them.  If they don't, I won't.

Saving Seeds

Collected more seeds today. Saved them in regular postal envelopes. My seed box is a small wooden file box that I bought at a yard sale, good fit for the envelopes.

Yellow pod bush beans. These are a tasty bean that grew well this year. I "think" they are open pollinated, and they are the only beans that I grew at the time, so they should grow true.

Daylily seeds. These are some of the results from my hybridizing. I'll have to look up how to grow them. My plan is to find a place to grow them out to bloom, and keep anything I like, throw away hybrids I don't like. No way to know until I see them grow and bloom. Just for fun.

These are "Oriental Snow Pea Sweet Taiwan". Similar for the beans I haven't grown any other pea, so unless they are a hybrid, they should grow true.

Plums From Seed, part 2.

There are many conflicting versions regarding how to sprout wild plum, and other stone fruit seeds. I have a pretty good supply, from collecting plums. They have been washed and allowed to dry. Most are in an envelope after being allowed to dry overnight. Based on several you-tube videos, I chose 5 pits for removal of the hull. I used a vice grip so I could adjust the force, and because I don't have a nutcracker.

Vice grip and plum pits, dried overnight. These are wild plums. The pits are the size of a sweet cherry seed.

The first pit flew across the room. I used a little more finesse for the others. They cracked easily, releasing the inner kernel. Cool! They look undamaged.

I moistened a paper towel, squeezed out the excess, wrapped the pits, placed them in a ziplock back, and placed them in the fridge. Now I need to wait one to 2 months. After that, I don't know - if they start growing, it's the wrong season (fall) to plant outside, but maybe they'll grow on the window sill. I did a web search on coat removal and stratification and scarification. Coat removal would be a "complete" version of scarification. It appears that coat removal is beneficial for germinating seeds of fruits with pits, and many other seeds. In addition, stratification for peaches and plums, by refrigerating, shoulf last about 10 weeks. For example, from Iowa State Horticultural News, Cherry, Peach, and Plum (Prunus species) Harvest fruit when full mature. Remove the seed. Seed may be sown in the fall or stratified seed may be planted in the spring. Stratify the seeds at 33 to 41 F. The sour cherry (Prunus cerasus) requires 90 to 150 days, the peach (Prunus persica) 98 to 105 days, and European plum (Prunus domestica) 90 days. Seed of plums and peaches should be planted 2 inches deep. Sow the seed of sour cherry at a depth of 1/2 inch.