Continued, Fig Tree Progress Report. 7.5.18

Carnini Fig Tree.  6 years.  7.5.18

Carini and Sicilian White.  7.5.18

These are most of the other fig trees.  They are in a row on the sputh side of the house, with a hill sloping downwards both south and west.  They have full sun on south and west, and some on the east. Name and ahe is with photos.

Carini, Lattarula, LSU Tiger.  Lots of brebas, maybe in a month.  Main crop starting to grow.

Hardy Chicago - main crop starting to grow.

King - lots of brebas.

Celeste - young, only 4 feet tall.  Main crop starting to grow.

Sicilian White - young, about 5 feet tall.  Several brebas, maybe next month.

Celeste Fig Tree.  3 Years.  7.5.18

King, Chicago Hardy, and LSU Tiger.  5 and 6 years.  7.5.18

Lattarula.  7.5.18

Lattarula, Petite negri, Carnin.  7.5.18

Sicilian White.  3 years.  7..5.18

Various Observations. 9.3.15

Daylily proliferations at 3 weeks.  9.3.15

 The daylily proliferation was cut and placed in water, and when a root started forming was moved into potting soil.  There was a smaller proliferation on the same stem.  I separated that, and planted both into potting soil.  They are in a sheltered location outside.

This was planted into potting soil 8.11.15.  The original cut was made about 8.3.15, so this is about one month.

It's nice to look under the container and see some roots growing out of the holes.  That way I know for sure the roots are growing.  This is a cool way to start new daylily plants without disturbing the parent plant.  But I do expect them to take as long as a seedling to grow to blooming size, maybe 2 to 3 years.

Roots forming from daylily proliferations.  9.3.15

Celeste fig cutting at 2.5 months.  9.3.15

The Celeste fig cutting was started mid june.  This came from dormant, hardwood cuttings that I received in Jan.  I was not enthusiastic about starting more then.  Made a half-way effort to start a few at that time and left the rest in the fridge.  I didn't give the cuttings the TLC that I usually do, and they did not make it.  In June I found the chilled cuttings in the refridgerator - they were in plastic zipper bag - and made an effort to start them.  They were treated with a cambium incision, a little dip-and-grow, and placed in potting soil outside.  I watered regularly.  Several started, but some stalled at the 1-inch-leaf stage and died.  I nurtured the remaining two with fertigation and kept them in sheltered locations.  I think they have grown well enough to survive their first dormancy and make it through their first winter.  Then I can give some TLC and they will have a head start next year.

Large Sedum Cutting at 3 weeks.  9.3.15

Large Sedum Cutting at 3 weeks.  9.3.15

The sedums were cut into pieces on 8.18.15 - pictured on that date.  No rooting hormone or special treatment, just stuck in fresh potting soil, sheltered location, and watered daily.  I don't know if they have roots yet, but they are growing new top growth at leaf axils.  Probably Autumn Joy - type sedum, and Munstead Red.  The leaf cuttings don't look so good.  A couple have not wilted.  If this works, it's very cool.  Several new sedum plants from 2 pieces that broke off in the wind and laid around a while before I cut and planted them.

 In the end, all it took to regenerate the Egyptian Walking Onion colony was to clean up the dried out splits from the prior bed, trim them, plant, and water.  Growing well.  We have scallions to eat now, and plenty to overwinter.

E.W. Onions at 3 weeks.  9.3.15

Fig Cuttings. 1.17.15

Celeste Fig Cuttings.  1.11.15

Celeste Fig Cutting.  1.11.15

Celeste Fig Cutting.  1.11.15

 This is a progress note on fig cuttings.

I started the Celeste and LSU Gold, about the first of Jan.  The photos for those were taken on about 1.11.15.

The Lattarula I started a few days later.

This is how I like to start fig trees.  It is more involved than necessary.  This approach appeals to me, because I like to observe every little growth along the way.  I think they grow faster this way.  I think I get a head start of a year in growth, overall, by starting them now.  Some fig hobbyists complain about gnats and mold.  I have never had those problems with this method.  On the other hand, I have also stuck many fig sticks into the garden soil, and had them take and grow, with no effort or coddling at all. 

1.  I like to start with fig sticks a little thicker than a pencil, and about that long.  Smaller or thicker will work, but this size seems to have the most vigor.  Thicker cuttings may not have buds for top growth.  Thinner cuttings may not have the stored carbohydrates to nourish root growth prior to leaf growth.

2.  I cut off the top.  They can grow with the apical bud, but my observations lead me to think, the apical bud is a little inhibitory on root initiation.  So I cut the top.  It's my habit to cut the top at an angle, and the bottom flat across.  Most hobbyists do that, so it's easy to tell the top from the bottom.

3.  I like to clean the cuttings  by scrubbing lightly, with a plastic vegetable brush, with some dish detergent, in running water.  That removes most of the likely mold and mildew spores.

4.  I use a sharp knife to make a vertical incision through the bark, into the wood, on the lower end of the cutting.  The incision exposes the cambium layer, which is sort of stem cell tissue for root formation.  I've grown many cuttings without incising them, but I find the roots often form from that tissue, faster than from the sides of the stem.  They also sometimes form from the cambium at the cut base, and lenticels along the sides of the cutting..

5.  I use dip-and-grow rooting hormone, at a 5:1 dilution, for a few seconds.  Again, this is not necessary.  I did not use rooting hormone for my first few years of starting figs.  Many writers state it is not necessary.  But, the cuttings I dip, root faster than the ones I don't dip.

6.  I wrap the cutting in wet paper towel.  The paper towels are almost-dripping wet or barely dripping wet.

7.  Then into plastic bags.  I blow in a little air, and close with a zip tie.

8.  I use a seed starting mat.  Other options for warming are top of refridgerator, or other warm place.  On the other hand, I've left cuttings on a bookshelf and they grew.  Just takes a bit longer.

8.  Every couple of days, I open the bag, inspect the cuttings, rinse under running water.  If any mildew is forming on the paper towel, I discard it and replace with new, wet paper towel. 

LSU Gold Fig Cutting.  1.11.15

9.  When roots begin to grow, about 1/4 inch to 1 inch long, I carefully plant them in a flower pot or plastic container, in wettened seed starting medium.  I put them into plastic bag again, and back onto the seed starting mat.

10.  Once the leaves are bigger than a quarter, I usually take them out of the bags.  By that point, they can usually get by without the humid bag.

For cuttings in the garden, I just stick the fig sticks into the ground, preferably in a somewhat sheltered spot.  I had some that i thought were dead, and used them as row markers for vegetable seeds, and they grew.   The first year plants were very small, but in the second year they took off and grew nicely.

This year, I'm not starting many.  They are mainly for gifts.  I forgot to incise and dip the Lattarula cuttings, so they are growing without that boost.  Lattarula is usually so vigorous, it should do fine with no special effort.

Lattarula Fig Cutting.  1.17.15

Wrapped Fig Cutting.  1.17.15

Fig Cuttings in Bags.  1.17.15

Fig Cuttings. 12.23.14

Image via vintageprintable.com

Today I started a few fig cuttings.  These were from a fig forum member in Marshall TX.  Celeste and LSU Gold.

Soon I will be packaging cuttings for fig forum members as well.

 No energy...

I also planted in the ground, a clump if Chives, and a rosemary plant.  Those I had out a month ago when putting a walk way through the middle of my border.   They've been sitting out of the ground.  They don't look stressed by the experience.

I also planted a red current bush.

 Pulled a few weeds.

Trimmed a few plum branches.

Nothing much.

Gardening in late December.

Still some hard freezes ahead, I'm sure.

Figs. 9.20.14

Champagne Fig.  2nd year in container.  9.20.14

Carini Fig.  9.20.14

 The first-year Carini fig has produced a few figs.  Burgundy-red.  Big juicy figs, pronounced fig flavor.  Last year this variety also produced same-year from cutting, but I lost the tree due to freeze.  This fall I will store the new trees in a shed, which worked well for the ones I treated that way last winter.

This Champagne fig is 2nd year from cutting, stored in container in shed last winter.  The figs are smaller, glowing yellow, and very very sweet.  I like them a lot.

Fig Progress Report. Battleground Figs. 7.19.14

Vancouver Brunswick in Battleground.  7.19.14

 Here is the progress report for the Battleground fig trees.

The Vancouver Brunswick, I moved here December 2012, now 13 years old, has a generous main crop forming.  There is one breba.  Today I covered the tree with a net, and placed a plastic sleeve around the trunk.  The sleeve will get a coating of Tanglefoot.  It will be interesting to see if we get to taste the main crop this year.  This is a very sweet fig, but hard to get it to produce much here because they ripen in rainy season.    Maybe in the higher elevation and hotter days at Battleground they will ripen sooner.

The containerized Carini will soon produce some figs to taste.  The in-ground was a victim of the big freeze.

Smith, LSU Tiger, Atreano, Petite Aubique all have new trees growing from the roots.  I am holding extra nutrients and watering only when they look like they are about to wilt.  I hope that makes them tougher for next winter.

Sal's fig is awkward looking because I converted it from a bushy shape to a single trunk.  It looks like there will be enough figs for a taste.

The rest of the containerized collection is looking good.  Champagne and Tiger may give some figs in containers.  The first year trees, I plan to keep in a shed for the winter, and plant some in the ground next Spring, so they don't get a big freeze in their first season of tender growth.
                        

Containerized Carini Fig.  Battleground.  7.19.14

I have more containerized fig trees than I know what to do with.  I plan to plant a Hardy Chicago, King, and Lattarula in the ground next Spring.

Smith in Recovery from Big Freeze.  7.19.14

Sal's Fig.  7.19.14

Containerized Fig Collection.  7.19.14

First figs of the season. Fig Progress Report. 7.19.14

Lattarula First Figs.  7.19.14

Lattarula.  7.19.14

Petite Aubique.  7.19.14

 These are some of the figs in the Vancouver yard.  The first of the season is Lattarula.   I might have left them one more day, but still very sweet.

Petite Aubique / Petite negri is close behind.  Lots of main crop forming too.

Hardy Chicago, not pictured.  No brebas but main crop growing fast.

Growing on the deck, the Smith in its second year, as well as starts of Dominick and Carini, each 2 feet tall, with start of baby figs.  On deck Lattarula cutting now grown to 2.5 feet tall.

Battleground figs to follow.  They show some promise too.

Smith.  First fig.  7.19.14

Dominick. First Figs.  7.19.14

New Starts. Fig trees. Carnations. Roses. 7.12.14

Today I planted some carnation seeds for next year.  We will see if they grow.  It's interesting starting seeds in July, but that seems right for perennial flowers that bloom the second year.  Starting plants for next year is either a suspension of uncertainty, or an expression of a type of hope - that next year will come and I will be here to enjoy.🐝

I had 3 fig cuttings in the fridge.  It was either start them, throw away, or leave them there untill the apocalypse.  So I rinsed them and placed  in moist paper towels in plastic bags.  They look reasonably green and viable.  These cuttings were wrapped in moist paper towels and plastic wrap, still moist and not rotten or moldy.  Probably there since April.  This is the last of staring new fig varieties.  These were Ventura and O'Rourke.

All of the freeze-killed fig trees are back from the dead.  The last was Atreano. Now about 2 foot tall from the roots.  No fertilizer.  See if they do better next winter.  Very lush growth on most.  

I gave away a Hardy Chicago start.  Very happy to find it a home.  🏡  Its mid July now.  No more fertilizer for any of the fig tree new starts.

 

Pencil-size pruning from healthy, vigorous rose bush.

Most of the leaflets are pruned off.

 This is my experiment to start some new roses.  It arose not out of wanting more rose bushes, but because I had left over Dip-And-Grow and didn't want to waste it.  And I am in the mood to try cuttings.

Roses can be easy to grow from cuttings.  I usually start them in winter from vigorous appearing dormant growth.  I have also grown roses from a bouquet, that someone brought into work, mid summer, and from a roadside bush about to meet the bulldozer.

These are mostly from unnamed varieties that I grew from cuttings a decade ago.

Incision to expose cambium.

5 seconds in Dip-And-Grow

Wrap lower part in wet paper towel.

 It's an attempt to use the fig method, which works very well for me.  The main difference is, this is Summer wood, while the fig cuttings are from dormant wood.

1.  I pruned sections about pencil-thick and pencil-long, or a little smaller, from this year's growth.

2.   I removed all leaflets, except the first couple in each leaf.  The reason is, I wanted to leave a little for photosynthesis, but not enough to draw more water than the rootless cutting can absorb.

3.  I made an incision in the lower section, where I want roots to grow.   The incision is made with a sharp knife, through the cambium layer.  Rose wood has a waxy layer, that may inhibit absorption of hormone.   Making the incision also exposes the cambium, which may respond by making callous.  Callous is basically a stem - cell type that can produce roots or vascular tissue, but not usually buds or leaves.  

4.  Dip in rooting hormone, 5 seconds.

5.  Wrap in moist to wet paper towel.  The paper towel is sterile, so will not contribute to rotting of the cutting.  Moisture content is easy to manage.  The white paper is easily inspected for mold and mildew, and easily replaced if those grow.  When roots form, the paper towel is easy to removed, almost falls apart on its own, but wont cause damage if left in the growing medium to compost itself when the roots are growing.

6.  The cutting is placed in a plastic bag.  I blow up the plastic bag, so there is only minimal contact with the leaves, to reduce infection of the leaf with rot causing organisms.  This makes a nice humidity chamber for the cutting, which should not require any watering until it starts growing and is removed.

7.  I placed the plastic bags in a warm room.  Easy to find in July, my house is not air conditioned.  The shade is closed so there is not direct sunlight.

8.  Now wait and see.  If the paper towel becomes moldy, I remove it, rinse the stem, and replace with fresh wet paper towel.  This is mostly the same as I do for figs.  I have never done this for roses, so they might grow and might not.

My grandfather's sisters grew hybrid tea roses by starting cuttings directly in their rose bed.  They cut sections, and stuck them into the soil.  They covered the cuttings using a mason jar, to create a miniature green-house for each cutting.  That was in the 1950s and 1960s, but I imagine they learned that from previous generations much earlier. 🌹

Place into plastic bag, blow up, crimp top.

Incubate in warm location out of direct sun.

Seedlings. Progress report. 4.19.14

Okra 4 months indoors from seed

Seedlings under lights.  Peppers, Mirabilis, and Okra

Seedlings under lights.  Okra and Mirabilis

Seedlings under lights.  Okra and Mirabilis

 Indoor seedlings are at a point where I don't have enough room.  Soon most will be outdoors.

The first of the okra plants continues to be a bit anemic, but now has the 2nd flower.  The first fell off.  I speculate it needed pollinating.  This time I used a q-tip as the bee.  This variety is the more compact growing "Baby Bubba".  I think outside it would be much much larger.

The figs are all outside now.  Next, the pepper plants.  Under lights, the current phase is the last of the peppers, the last of the four o'clocks (Mirabilis), and then new okras.  Easier to type, "Mirabilis".  All of the new okras are germinated, still at the cotyledon stage.   These are on the north side of the house.  They get potential east and west sun, if the sun is shining.  Day by day, they'll move closer to full sun.  Today is raining.

When the rest of the tomato seedlings germinate, there will be room for those, too.

The larger pepper seedlings are moved to the south window, or outside on the North side of the house.  That's the ones that are not in the poly low tunnel.

Pepper seedlings in South window.  Also a ginger plant.

The larger Mirabilis are also moving outside during the day.  Those and the peppers are inside for night, and outside for day.  The figs are outside now 24/7.

This is a nice start for this year.  Making up for losing 2013 for being ill. 

I think that ginger needs repotting.  I will look for a container now.

Outdoor plant starts.  Figs, Peppers, Mirabilis.

Fig Cutting. Progress Report. 2.22.14

Lattarula Fig Cutting

The last of the Lattarula.  Impressive bunch of roots.  I did not remove more paper towel.  It will dissolve in the growth medium.  Planted and left in window sill.

Some of the cuttings that I planted then kept on the heating mat dried  out and died.  If I kept them in plastic bags they did OK.  I'm not in a hurry for them to grow.  Placing them in the window sill might mean a bit longer stems, but otherwise should be OK.

Dominick, Carini, Lattarula Fig Cuttings. Progress Report. 2.11.14

Dominick Fig Cutting.  About 6 weeks.

I moved the 2nd Dominick Fig cutting from juice can to slightly larger container.  Nice roots.  The first continues to grow nicely.


I took one cutting to work.  It did well there.  When I took respite vacation 2 weeks ago, I brought it home.  Somehow,that damaged the plant.  The leaves wilted and fell off.  They were the size of a cat's ears.   I am continuing to nurture it.  Doesn't look promising.  This is why I start multiple cuttings.

Dominick Fig Cuttings

 I had additional Dominick fig cuttings in the refrigerator.  These are stored in sealed plastic bag, so they don't dehydrate.  I trimmed them and placed in moist paper towel, plastic bag, to root.  This time no incision or rooting hormone.  It's OK if they take a while.

I did the same with 2 remaining Carini fig cuttings.

Lattarula fig cutting.

I planted this Lattarula cutting in the usual juice can / seed starting medium setup.  It's in a plastic bag for a week to get it settled.  I removed the tiny figs.  Others are almost ready.