Continued, Fig Tree Progress Report. 7.5.18

Carnini Fig Tree.  6 years.  7.5.18

Carini and Sicilian White.  7.5.18

These are most of the other fig trees.  They are in a row on the sputh side of the house, with a hill sloping downwards both south and west.  They have full sun on south and west, and some on the east. Name and ahe is with photos.

Carini, Lattarula, LSU Tiger.  Lots of brebas, maybe in a month.  Main crop starting to grow.

Hardy Chicago - main crop starting to grow.

King - lots of brebas.

Celeste - young, only 4 feet tall.  Main crop starting to grow.

Sicilian White - young, about 5 feet tall.  Several brebas, maybe next month.

Celeste Fig Tree.  3 Years.  7.5.18

King, Chicago Hardy, and LSU Tiger.  5 and 6 years.  7.5.18

Lattarula.  7.5.18

Lattarula, Petite negri, Carnin.  7.5.18

Sicilian White.  3 years.  7..5.18

Moving a 16 year old Petite Negri fig tree. 6 months later. 7.5.18

This is the approx 16 year old Petite Negri fig tree that I moved last November.  I moved it because this is among my favorite fig tree varieties, excellent flavor, but I'm converting the old place to a more conventional yard for eventual sale, and this tree is so slow starting and growing, I didn't want to wait many years for a decent crop.

I spent several days digging.  I took as large a root mass as I could, but it was necessary to cut several large roots.  Based on WA State extension information, I did not cut back the top, other than what was needed for safe moving.   

I've been watering the tree every week, using the 5-gallon bucket with holes in bottom method, 3 buckets full of water slowly draining, each time.  There was no die-back at all.  I have spread the growth from the bottom, for a wider, bowl-shaped crown.  The height is about 8 feet tall.  I left a few brebas - about 10 - but removed the rest, so that nutrients and photosynthetic energies could go into regenerating root biomass and some top growth.  The top growth was minimal - about 6 inches - although this tree grows slowly anyway.

Compared to other fig trees in the same row, this one is not nearly as lush.  I imagine that it needs at least a year to resume normal growth.  I may cut back - minimally - top growth this fall, so that the top is a little lower and more bushy. 

Overall I'm very pleased.  The tree made it through the move, there was no die-back, and my back has fully recovered.;  I'm happy to anticipate more delicious figs from this tree.  As a bonus, this location is much sunnier, which may move the season forward a week or two.  That would be nice, because I lose a lot of this variety of figs to the fall rains.

Moving an Established Fig Tree. Delayed post from Nov 2017

Moving an Established Fig Tree.  Nov, 2017

 I decided to move a fig tree, that I originally planted in 2001.  It was at my old house in town, which I have been gradually converting the yard into a more conventional lawn and specimen planting lawn, for eventual sale.  That process is almost complete, but I didn't want to lose this good fig variety.

This tree was bought via mail order from Wayside Nursery on the East Coast in 2001.  It was sold as Petite Negri.  They sell fig trees using the same photo, but different name, currently.  On the defunct figs4fun website, it was identified as Aubique Petite.

Root Ball of Fig Tree.  Nov, 2017

Planted and a Little Wilted.  Nov, 2017

Whatever the true name, this tree does not grow as fast or large as many other varieties.  I 16 years, it's grown to about 8 feet tall, and similar spread, and bushy.  I had it pruned to a single trunk, but let some suckers grow in case the main tree does not survive the move.

This is probably my favorite fig by flavor, richly flavored figs, black skin and dark red flesh.  On the down side, it has almost no breba crop, and the main crop usually ripens when the rains come, so most are lost to mold.  The tree  grows slowly, and cuttings take a few years to start producing, so I wanted to preserve the tree rather than just taking cuttings.

The old location was near the base of a slope, shaded on its South and Western sides and a little Eastern shade as well.  Maybe it will produce earlier and better in a sunny spot.  The new location has full sun on South and West, and almost full sun on East.  It is near the top of a slope.  North of the location is the light yellow painted house.  This change of location might have the intended effect of earlier figs, although Battleground is a higher elevation and a little colder during winter, than the old Vancouver location.  The soil in the new location is also softer and more fertile.

I'm not getting younger.  It took 2 days to dig.  I had to remove some lower branches and suckers, to dig a trench, then dig under the tree.  I got all of the root ball that I could handle.  Obviously, a lot of root mass was lost, probably 75% of it,  a couple of roots as big as 3 inches diameter.  Leaves were already starting to yellow and fall before the move, and many fell completely, within a week after the move.  It's a drastic trauma to the tree, but fig trees are tough and resilient.  The stems continue to look healthy, with healthy looking buds.  I think it will adjust it's top growth next Spring, with slower growth, while the roots branch out and re-establish during Winter and Spring, in the new soil.  I will have a nice mulch, and water weekly.

As a backup, one of the suckers already had roots, so I had already severed that from the parent tree, and planted into a container. 

Moving a 16-year-old Fig Tree. 11.24.17

Recently Transplanted, 16-yr-old Petite Negri Fig Tree.  11.24.17

I moved this fig tree about 3 weeks ago, but  just now catching up on blog entries.  I moved this fig tree from my old suburban place, to the country place.  This is part of preparing the suburban place for sale, making a more conventional landscape - mostly lawn, with a few specimen plantings - while trying to keep the favorite, established varieties where they can grow for many more years.

This was a challenge.  This was one of the first fig cultivars that I grew.  The figs are delicious, dark red interior with black exterior.    The negative side is, there are not a lot of Summer (breba) figs, and the Fall (main crop) figs ripen so late that most wind up spoiled in the chill and rain.  I wonder if location change will help.  The old location was shaded on the South by the house, and down a slope, and shaded on the West by a majestic, old, ornamental cherry tree.  The new location is on the South side of the house, with no shade on West or South side, and near the top of a slope.  So it should be warmer and sunnier. 

The trunk was about 5 inches in diameter.  This variety doesn't grow as tall as most fig trees, and was sold as "dwarf".  But in its 16 years in that location, it still grew into a thick trunked, extensively rooted tree.  I dug as large a root ball as I could, with as much soil as I could handle, pruned back the biggest branches and some of the suckers, and still had to cut some large roots.  It may not survive.

Meanwhile, this old guy wound up with a hip strain from the digging.  I should act my age.  That's one reason for fewer entries during the past couple of weeks.

The tree still had some leaves, but most were ready to fall when I dug it up.  Moving it in the fall, there is less watering to worry about during the rainy winter.  I think it will have a chance to settle in, and spend the next year establishing new roots.  If some of the top dies, that's OK.  It would be nice if some of the top does live, since deer don't seem to bother branches about 5 feet.  The highest growth on this tree now, is about 8 feet.

There was also a sucker with roots.  I had already cut that off and planted in a container.  If the main tree doesn't survive the move, I can still grow a new one.

Fig Tree to Move

Petite negri fig, 15 years old.  I am looking for someone local who wants a fig tree for the digging and transporting.  Posting here so that I can link to Home Orchard Society Forum.

In 2012 I moved a similar sized Brunswick fig tree, which did just fine.

Kitchen Garden Harvest. 7.21.16

Collard Greens.  7.21.16

Lattarula and Petite negri figs.  7.21.16

Lattarula and Petite negri figs.  7.21.16

From the Kitchen Garden.  7.21.16

Q-1-8 / Salish Peaches.  7.21.16

Illinois Everbearing Mulberries.  7.21.16

Hollywood Plums.  9.21.16

Walking around. Persimmons, Figs, Vines, Kiwis, . 6.8.16

Chocolate persimmon scion, grafted 4.14.16.  6.8.16

 I was away for a week.  This time of the year, a lot changes.  Some of the last grafts are taking off.  Not fully there yet, but growth is encouraging.  Chocolate persimmon on Saijo, Fuzzy male kiwi on Blake kiwi, and Petite negri fig on Dominic.

I have left the scions wrapped.  The graft tape can be removed when they are more mature and more growth has occurred.

Nikita's Gift Persimmon Flowers.  6.8.16

It's been unusually hot.  I missed the persimmon flowers (Nikita's Gift and Saijo) at their peak.  Even though Saijo was much bigger than Nikita when planted, Nikita is much more vigorous.  There were many more fowers this year.  The primordial fruits seem to be swelling, so maybe they will take.  These are in their 3rd year.  I planted them from dry root, mail order trees in 2013.'

This is the first year that I have put significant effort into the row of grape vines and kiwis.  They were planted from early 2013 to this spring.  This year I cleaned up the row, mulched with grass clippings, and fertilized (peecycle) to promote vigor.  Most are at or above their deer cages.  There is some risk for deer damageif those animals become more ambitious.

The mulberries (Illinois Everbearing) are producing very well.  They are incredibly sweet.  For some reason, there isn't much, if any, bird theft.  I moved this tree from Vancouver to Battleground in October, 2012.  I originally planted it March, 2010.

Saijo Persimmon Flower.  6.8.16

 The Fig graft, Petite Negri on Domonic understock, is growing better.  This was grafted late March, so about 2 1/2 months now.  I tried before in 2009, but was less experienced with grafting then.  Fig grafting is not new - Eisen wrote about it in1901.  He used cleft grafting, and recommended 2 year old scion for reduced pith, and terminal buds.  So far, only one of my three scions, has taken.  But that's all I need.

All of the brebas fell off Smith Fig, but now there are main crop buds.  This tree is an experiment, not know to do well in Patcific Northwest.  Meanwhile, Lattarula figs are swelling bigger, showing promise.  Same for Carini.

Grapevines and kiwis.  6.8.16

The last of the pawpaw fruits fell off.  The trees look good.  Maybe next year.


With more nurturing, mulch, water, fertilizer, Blake Kiwi is growinbg more vigorously this year.  The male fuzzy kiwi graft on that vine is also still looking good.  There isn't a lot of info on growing kiwis in the Pacific NW, so I am on untested ground with this one.  So far, deer have avoided this vine, while eating any grape leaf that sticks out of the cages.

Illinois Everbearing Mulberries.  6.8.16

Illinois Everbearing Mulberries.  6.8.16

Petite negri graft 6.8.16,    Graftged whip / tongue, 3.21.16

Image of grafted fig tree.  Eisen, 1901.

Eisen's method for grafting figs.  1901.

 

Fig Progress Report. 5.20.16

Brunswick Fig Breba Crop.  5.20.16

Fig brebas are getting big.  Brebas are figs that grow from buds on last summer's stems, and ripen during this summer.  Figs that grow on this year's stems are called Main Crop, and ripen in the fall.

Some fig trees are mainly breba producers, some are mainly main crop, some are both.

The Battleground fig trees are 3 to 5 years old, except for Brunswick which I moved there 4 years ago, and was 10 years old at the time.

Brunswick rarely has brebas, and is one of the sweetest figs, so the handful this year is great.

Brunswick goes by other names - Dalmation, Madonna, Castle Kennedy, Magnolia, Kennedy, Clémentine.  Ancient varieties often go by many names, because they have been taken from place to place, and people who forgot the original name gave them new names.  Later, they are found to be the same variety, but many people then know them by other names.   Brunswick's place in the Pacific NW is tenuous - there are other fig trees that bear more figs, are more reliable, and that have most before the fall rainy season, which makes the last figs on this tree moldy. But when it bears, the figs are so amazingly sweet, juicy, and "fig flavored".

Brunswick Fig Tree, moved Dec 2012

Carini Fig Breba Crop.  5.20.16

White Marseilles / Lattarula Fig Breba Crop.  5.20.16

I moved this tree to Battleground as an experiment.  I didn't know if it would survive.  Now, after more than 3 years, it has increased a little in size, and growing many new shoots from the base.  I will let the largest of those shoots grow, since they seem more vigorous than the top.

LSU Tiger Fig Tree.  5.20.16

Other fig trees with brebas this year:

Big breba crop:

Lattarula - also called White Marseilles and Italian honey Fig.  Both the big original tree and the smaller tree grown from cutting and planted at Battleground, are covered with figs.   This is an old variety - Thomas Jefferson was enthusiastic about White Marseilles fig.

 King - also called "Desert King" - only the one at the old place.  The cutting at Battleground is slow to establish.  I expect it to need a few more years.  Once established, this tree grows huge for a fruit tree.  The tree at the old place is covered with breba figs.


 Carini - a NOID from a Fig Forum member.   Really should have a place in the Pacific NW.  Generous sized figs, reddish coloration, sweet, vigorous, and bears a lot at a young age.  Probably comparable to Lattarula, which is one of the best.

Fig trees with only a few brebas -

Petite negri - worth it for the fall figs.  Usually has a few brebas.

Hardy Chicago - rarely has brebas but is among the first of the Main Crop summer figs.  The few brebas it has, usually fall off.

No brebas at all:

Sal's fig - usually has a main crop, but the tree is not thriving at all, much smaller than any of the other, similar range in size as Petite negri but the figs are not as good.  Very hardy even in our coldest winter, but I am thinking about replacing it with Celeste, when that cutting reaches a bigger size, maybe Spring 2017.

LSU Tiger - Modern fig tree from Louisiana, very big juicy figs, bears well, very vigorous, but not brebas this year.  Hardiness here not known, last winter was so mild it wasn't a good test.

Smith Fig - an old Louisiana variety.  May not be hardy here.  I planted outside last summer, survived the mild winter.  No figs yet this year.  Not fertilizing because I want the growth to be tough for next winter.

Champagne Fig - a modern Louisiana variety.  The figs are nice, sprightly yellow figs, small.  I don't know the hardiness here and no brebas this year.  Not fertilizing, as for Smith.

Dominick's Fig - a heritage variety from a fig forum member in the Eastern seaboard.  I have two, one might become the rootstock for Petite negri.  Haven't tasted from this tree yet.

Atreano - this might have had some if not for deer.  I did not protect it well.   Considered good for Pacific NW.

Other than a NOID - I'm thinking was labeled as "Sicilian white" but the label is lost so not sure, very young with 2 brebas on it's skinny stem, and Celeste - grew from cutting too late last year to get much growth, still in container for this year - I think that's all of my fig trees.

Where there is vigorous top growth, I have been snapping off the terminal leaf, leaving 5 or 6 leaves per shoot.  Tipping the shoot is thought to stimulate earlier and/or better production of main crop figs, and that is also my experience.  I am not doing that for the smaller Battleground fig trees, because I want them to get in as much good growth this year as possible.   I did tip the strongest growth on Brunswick, Lattarula, and LSU Tiger.

Fresh Fruit. 7.30.15

King Figs.  7.28.15

Petite Negri Figs.  7.28.15

Hollywood Plums, Oregon Curl Free Peaches, figs, Pristine Apples.  7.30.15

Winter Gardening. Fig Replacements. 1.23.15

Fig Row with replacement trees planted.  1.23.15



King Fig about to be planted.  1.23.15

This is from yesterday.   My approach, to trying to grow figs in Battleground, is evolving.

The challenges:

Climate.  Freeze damage is more of an issue than in Vancouver.  Almost a non-issue in Vancouver.  I lost top growth of several at the Battleground place, last year.  The unprotected ones of experimental varieties sustained significant freeze damage - an unknown, and exposed growth on LSU Tiger.  Haven't checked Champagne yet.

One problem with the freezing, is that it may limit fertilizing.  If growth is rapid, it may be more susceptible to freezing.  So it may take longer to bear fruit.

Herbivores.  Despite covering and hardware cloth, Smith was destroyed to ground level and into the roots, by voles.  Unknown was also destroyed to below ground level.  I had left one exposed this winter.

As a result, I decided to give up some experimental varieties, and go back to standards that have known hardiness, from my Vancouver yard.  Last year I grew cuttings from Hardy Chicago and Lattarula, and I continued a cutting from 2 years ago from King.  Those have all done well without any protection at all, from local freezes.

I dug out the remains of Smith and the unknown.  I planted King in a section where I had laid down black plastic to kill grass over the winter.  There is evidence of fireplace disposal or old fire there, with ashes and char.  Those have been leaching for at least the past 4 years, and possibly much longer.  I replaced soil in the top 18 inches, 18 inches around, although it may still be affected.  King is usually very vigorous, and this is a good spot for a larger tree.  I planted Lattarula where Smith was, and Hardy Chicago were the unknown was.  Sal's had no freeze protection and looks fine.   Sal's seems to me the most hardy, and tolerant to neglect, but growth is slower.  Maybe the slow growth is why it is more durable.  Aubique petite has had no freeze protection in prior years, and only winter 2013-14 was it freeze killed, so starting over.  So I did protect that one, and Carini.  Carini should be OK once it is established.

Across the road, I need to check on Brunswick, Champagne, and Atreano.  Brunswick was OK a few weeks ago.

So now, all of the varieties that I grew successfully at the Vancouver place are in-ground at the Battleground place.

The plastic/mess is intended to kill grass.  I just want to mow up one side and down the other.  In those spaces, I want to plant vegetables and/or bee forage, with straw mulch.

This time I applied hardware cloth surrounds and deer fencing cylinders at the outset.  They do need some mulch.

Addendum:  I checked the figs on the acre across the street.  Brunswick looks great.   Minimal freez damage, maybe 5 twigs.  Most of the rest have viable-looking brebas.  Growth last year was only about 6 inches.  Might need some nitrogen.  Then again maybe that's why it did so well.   Champagne hard to say.  Maybe one sprout survived from last year.  Atreano, hard to say.  There was only one sprout from last year.  It looks like it might be alive.  If so, it's one of the larger sprouts from the 2013 freeze damaged fig trees.

Pruning Fig Trees. 1.19.15

Fig "Aubique Petite" before pruning.  1.19.15

Fig "Aubique Petite" after pruning.  1.19.15

 Today I pruned my two front yard fig trees in Vancouver.  These are among my oldest trees, about 13 to 14 years old.  They have spread too wide.  It is difficult getting bird netting over the trees.

Both bear mainly on new growth in fall - "Main Crop" but get a few summer figs on the previous year's growth - "breba figs".   If these were mainly breba varieties, pruning much of the growth now could mean loss of much of next summer's crop.  Since they are mostly main crop, production will not be so affected.

The goal was to make them a bit more compact while still having an open center, with the branches like the sides of a bowl.

I started by standing back and selecting which branches to remove close to the main trunk and scaffold branches.  With each cut, I backed up again to see if I really wanted to remove the next branch.

Once I removed the larger branches, I used the pruning shears to remove smaller ones, aiming always for a bowl shape with open center, and branches not spreading as far and wide.  Finally, I trimmed off some that looked frost damaged, and cut the tips from some to encourage close-in branching.

I'm happy with the results.  The trees are likely to respond with a burst of growth, but also have lots of figs that ripen nicely due to more sun exposure in the trees.  If I want to net the trees, it will be easier.

The last photo shows the cut end of a branch.  These fig trees seem to make multiple rings per year.  The branch can't be more than 14 years old, and probably more like 12.  I planted the tree 14 years ago.

Fig "Hardy Chicago" before pruning.  1.19.15

Fig "Hardy Chicago" after pruning.  1.19.15

Tree rings on 13-year old fig branch.  Ficus carica "Petite Aubique".  1.19.15