Pruning a Gravenstein Apple Tree. 11 Apr 24.

Continuing Spring pruning.   Last fall, I had the deer fencing removed from around the Gravenstein apple tree.  It's big enough now, I think I can keep branches above convenient, deer salad bar height.   It's a lot easier to maintain an unfenced tree, thin fruit, pick fruit, prune, and mow, if the deer cage is gone.

Here is the after photo.

The goals for fruit trees in deer country are the same as everywhere else, but also to keep branches out of convenient reach for deer browsing,  I say "convenient" because a motivated deer can stretch really high, or can pull down willow branches.  But I have not had a problem when I kept the branches and leaves up high.

I like to have open center, for air circulation and for sunshine throughout the tree.  I don't like branches that rub on each other, so one of those has to go.

Bearing branches should not be long and willowy.  Even half inch branch at 10 feet high can droop to a few feet from the ground.  The  you get this -

 I have been aiming for young  bearing branches about a foot or two, off the heftier scaffold branches,  This also prevents excessive weight of too many apples, from breaking the limbs.

This tree has a pollinating graft that blooms at the same time.  I used Airlie Red Flesh, which has pink, almost red flowers.

That compares to the pale, almost-white flowers of Gravenstein.

The label had fallen off.  By making the original choice of a color coded variety, when I grafted on the original pollinating scion, It helped a lot in determining that important branch to keep.  In this case, the branch was drooping.  Instead of cutting it off, I tied it vertically to create a taller scaffold branch.

I graft on pollinating varieties partly for the fun, and to try different varieties, but also because honeybees have become less common.  Tiny pollinating bees are all over here, but seem to stay mostly within a tree's branches, rather than flying tree to tree.  I think having a different variety within a tree, whose bloom time overlaps with the main variety, increases the chances of successful pollination. 

Aren't they beautiful?  And they smell like apple blossoms.

Also, if a branch looks good but needs to be lifted or shifted to fill in a dead space, I tie it with cotton clothesline rope.  It's strong, easy to tie good knots (unlike plastic string), biodegradable but lasts a few years outside.

I did cut a couple of scaffolding branches that were too high or too low, or crossing another.

I cut off any buds or twigs below about six feet high, so as not to get a deer started and wanting more.

Here is the before photo.

Power Secateurs For Pruning. 11 Apr 24.

 These helped a lot with today's pruning.

I think I got about three times as much done, as I would have otherwise.  Also, they cut through branches that would have been too difficult with my hand secateurs.  They extended my reach a bit, too.

Bush Cherry Carmine Jewel Blooming. 11 Apr 24.

 A few years ago, I tried to grow a bush cherry.  I think it was either the variety Romeo or Juliet.  They did not survive, due to some sort of cherry rust disease.  That also happened with a bush Nanking cherry.

In Spring 2023, I bought a Carmine Jewel bush cherry to try yet again.  So far, so good.  It grew through the summer, and survived the winter.  Now it's blooming.  Based on those blossoms, there could be a lot of cherries for such a small bush.

This is located in the rose garden / duck yard.  

First Dahlia Emerging. 11Apr 24.

 The first of the big, store-bought dahlias has started to emerge now.

It's in this container to get growth started.  Along with another tuber.   Next I'll plant it in it's own pot so it can get growing before going into its final location.

Pruning An Asian Pear Multigraft, In Bloom. 11 Apr 24.

 This Asian pear is pretty productive.  I forget the three or four varieties.  It grows too tall to manage the high growth - pruning, thinning, picking.  I cut back the top last year.  I waited until bloom so I can prune while preserving some of this year's crop.  It only needs to make a few bowls of fruit. maybe a batch to can.

I cut out the top again, shortening the trunk by about 18 more inches.  I shortened most of the branches back to stronger wood.  I don't want long, willowy branches with too much heavy fruit that break off.  I opened up the center some more, to bring more sunlight into the tree.

I think this size and density of blossoms will give us some nice fruit and enough of it. The branches are all within easy reach for thinning fruit, and picking.  It also sets up a better shape so that pruning next year will be simplified.

I have not pruned trees while in bloom, in the past.  It makes sense to me, but isn't what is usually recommended.  So we will see what happens.  Rainy season is about over, so this timing will give the cut ends a good chance to start sealing over, so maybe prevent disease from entering those wounds.  Vigorous growth is about to commence, which should be good timing.  I like being able to judge which branches to cut, based on the flowers now on those limbs.

Pruning a 20-year Old Hardy Chicago Fig Tree. 11 Apr 24.

Two years ago I radically pruned this Hardy Chicago fig tree, taking it from, maybe, fifteen or twenty feet tall  to about six feet tall.  Previous pruning had given it good scaffold branches, which were low and well spaced.

With such a radical pruning, it didn't bear the first year after that pruning, but bore heavily the second year.  I should have pruned it after the first year of growth, to create more, lower, branching, but was not able to until now.

I pruned again today.  Most of the 2-year newer growth branches were six to ten feet long, up to 1.5 inches in diameter.

Here it is after pruning.

Here it was before pruning.  I had pruned a few branches on the right, before it occurred to me to photo-document my progress.

I left most of the one to two year old growth, about a foot long.  But I didn't think too much about it.  I also removed a couple of large scaffolding branches that were in the center.  I want a low-branched, bowl-shaped tree to let in sunlight and make harvesting and later pruning easier.

This might have been too radical to have a crop this year.  Trees can fool me, so we will see.

Hardy Chicago is one of my best and most productive fig varieties.  They are truly delicious figs.  While it makes the buds for brebas, they usually fall off.  Then it sets an early crop of main-crop figs, entirely on new growth.  So nothing is lost, pruning in the spring.  The other side of that coin, however, is that a radical spring pruning might result in over-vigorous vegetative growth that might not make fruiting buds.

Container Tulips Blooming. 11 Apr 24.

 These are the tulips that I planted in containers last fall.  I've moved them from the fenced vegetable garden to the deck.

When they finish blooming, I'll move them back to the vegetable garden.

These pots are big enough to require a dolly for moving them around.  

So far, deer have not come up onto the deck to eat them.  It might help to have a vigilant dog just inside the windows, barking at them.

In my garden, there are also half-barrel size containers with tulips.  They are too heavy to move.  I'm experimenting with small crops to over-plant the tulips, so the space and containers are well used during the summer.  the first attempt is strawberries.

This container had scallions, which are gone now.  The tulips are bulbs that I discovered while rearranging other areas of the garden, and replanted into this container last year.

Repotting Schlumbergera. 11 Apr 24.

 These were the two smallest / newest Schlumbergeras.  One has a sort of fuchsia tone that I haven't seen much in modern ones.  The color was more common in the past.

These ceramic pots are quite heavy.  They won't have any problems tipping over as they grow.  Also, they look nice.  I did not prune these.  They didn't need it.  Also, if my pruning of some of the others was too severe, these will be the blooming ones, next winter.

Here are the roots.  Nice, and I did not disturb them. 

These cacti should be set fir a few years now, with just routine care.

Later.  

I decided to add this photo, rather than a new blog post.  This cactus had a couple of buds.  One opened.

I finally labeled them with the flower color.

Why I drill Holes In Pots That Have Holes. 9 Apr 24.

This pot has been sitting there with several inches of water, for several weeks.  The holes are too small to let it drain and too close to the snap-on saucer.  With soil, it would just be soggy.

It will have a bunch of new, larger holes before I put it to work.

Pruning Schlumbergera. 9 Apr 24.

 I've usually been reluctant to prune the Schlumbergeras.  As a result they tend to sprawl and become top heavy.   I wanted to prune them just after blooming, but some are still blooming.  I started with these two.  I left still- blooming stems in place. I pruned the others back by 1 or 2 or 3 nodes - basically the past 2 or 3 years' growth.

After the flowers finish, I'll prune those stems back the same way, so they are all even.

Planting Celosia Seeds, Basil, Nasturtiums, Cilantro. 9 Apr 23.

 Today I planted these seeds - 

I'm using the seed warming mat for the Celosias and Basil.  I planted the Nasturtiums directly outside.  The cilantro is just in the sunroom.

Shlumbergera Update. Some Continue To Bloom. 7 Apr 24.

 Some of the Schlumbergeras continue to bloom.

See also the one in the Poinsettia post today.

Most of them need up-potting.  I'm not sure that, going forward, I want as many (maybe 10 plants) but they are among the most rewarding, and for minimal care, for flowers that bloom beautifully indoors in the glum of winter.  

An of course I will want to see what the seedlings do as they grow.  Maybe bloom winter after this - 2025-2026 - but I don't know

Poinsettia Continues Full Bloom. 7 Apr 24.

This is the Poinsettia that I kept after Christmas 2022.  I repotted it early summer in good potting soil, in a heavy pot to prevent falling over.  It doesn't get a lot of care.  It was blooming at Christmas and even better now.

This is the one I bought Christmas 2023 and repotted not long ago in good potting soil and a heavy pot.   Most of the leaves have fallen off but the colorful blooms (sepals?) continue.

I guess I wont be buying Poinsettias next Christmas 😀

Refinishing A Very Old, Small, Cedar Box. 6 Apr 24.

 This box has been sitting around for a long time.  It was on a back shelf in the garage, awaiting repairs.  The top was broken into two pieces.  The bottom had broken into three pieces.  Anyone else would have thrown it away.  But I like things with a nice wood grain, and I wanted a box for remotes that isn't plastic, and it was something to play with.

I glued the top together.  Unfortunately, the glue ran in the grain, invisible until polyurethane coat was added.  Then it showed badly..  So I sanded it off.  The glue shows with alcohol too.   I alternated alcohol / sanding / alcohol / sanding, until the glue no longer showed.  Then I sanded with super fine sandpaper, gave a coat of wood conditioner, then multiple coats of spraybpolyurethane.

I like cedar wood, its grains and knots.  It shows nicely on this box.  I ordered new hinges and a hasp on Amazon.  

The inside was too difficult to give a good finish, and glue showed there too.  I lined it with faux-antique paper lining.  This stuff is as thin as a coat of paint, and very sticky.   It was a learning process and my result was so - so.

I remember the original feet were wooden, but they broke off and were long gone.  I just used some felt feet for scratch protection.  The bottom is 1/4 " plywood.  I finished it for protection, but it's nothing special.

Now I have a box for storing remotes and reading glasses, so they won't get lost and there is less clutter.  And not plastic.

Dwarf Dahlia Seedling Update. 6 Apr 24.

 The dwarf dahlia seedlings are making their true leaves now.  I think germination was about 50%.  These seeds were planted in regular potting soil.  They were at room temperature, not warming mat.  I read they do better without the added warmth.

My plan was 8 cells of "Mignon" and 8 cells of "Dandy".   Full height for Mignon is listed as 20 inches and for Dandy  24 inches (Baker Creek Seeds).   Maybe smaller if container grown?   Since some cells were empty and some had two or three plants, I rearranged today so each cell had one plant.

These are in full sun, outside, during the day and inside at night. They usually get a few hours of LED light to lengthen their day.  Watering with Schultz at recommended houseplant strength.  I think Miracle Grow at 1/4 tsp per 2 quart would do fine as well.

Tomato Seedling Update. 6 Apr 24.

 The tomato seedlings are doing well.  With days this week mostly 50s to 60s, maybe slightly warmer in full sun, I have them out in full sun all day and in sunroom at night.  Nights are high 30s into the 40s.

The pale leggy seedlings look a lot better now.   I thinned them today, one seedling per cell.

Before thinning.

I think they are about to have a growth surge now.

I'm watering as with other seedlings, weak houseplant - strength Schultz with each watering,

Do the Fig Trees Need Fertilizer? 5 Apr 24.

 I looked at a variety of websites regarding fertilizing fig trees.  

From Univ of Georgia extension service,  "a satisfactory amount of shoot growth is about a foot per year."

Clemson Univ talks a lot about fertilizing, but also states that in soils of average fertility, fertilizing might not be needed.  They also state that too much fertilizer can cause loss of yield, as can too little water.

A website called "The Fruit Grove" discusses fertilizing, but notes that if the trees are already growing and producing well, then fertilization might not be needed and, again, too much - especially nitrogen - can reduce fig production and cause rank, non-hardy growth that is more susceptible to winter kill.

I can't find the reference right now, but another said don't fertilize if there is more than six inches of growth.

I checked how long new growth was from last year.

A lot of new stems are six to nine inches.  Some are longer, and Violette de Bordeaux (as noted earlier, probably falsely sold as Petite negri) always has less growth, being dwarf in habit ( I think brachytic dwarfism = short internodes). 

Considerations -

I almost always get more figs than I know what to do with anyway.

I normally don't fertilize my fig trees.  They usually do fine without.

American and worldwide fruits and vegetables have become significantly less nutritions, as well as less flavor, over the past 70 years.  Part of that is fertilizing depleted soils to boost yields and speed growth.

Sometimes I have spread wood ashes in the fig grove.  I don't know if that is fertilizing or just soil building.

The fig grove is also a "rest stop" for Rufus.  It actually gets quite a lot of fertilizing via doggie.  That the grasses there are the lushest and fastest growing in the yard, probably indicates that is enough.

My aim is quality, richness of flavor, and while I might not see or taste it, nutrition.  Raising yields, and growing even bigger figs, just isn't on my wish list.

So after all of that, I decided not to fertilize the fig grove.  After the next grass cutting, I'll cast a dusting of wood ashes.  The added calcium as well as other minerals should be beneficial without causing rank, weak, overgrowth.

Overwintered Four O'Clock (Mirabilis) Roots. 5 Apr 24.

 I was cleaning out one of last year's flowerpots, and found these.  They are Four O'Clock roots.

It's possible I pulled off the growth tops.  I thought there was a weed.  These look nice and firm.  Maybe they have adventitious buds that might grow.

I planted them in potting soil in starter pots. If they grow, I'll plant them in the border or in from of the house.

First Apple Blossoms Of The Season. 4 Apr 24.

 These are the first open apple blossoms of the season.

Redlove Calypso.

Zestar.

Gravenstein.

I need to keep this in mind if I eliminate a variety.  Gravenstein is triploid - I think - so wont pollinate the others, and needs them to develop its fruit.

Still, there will be a lot of overlap with the next ones.  These are just the beginning.

I'm curious about how Zestar will do.  Last year, there were apples but they were not all that good.  Whereas, the Gravensteins were fit for a King!

Starting Mini Dahlias After Dry Storage. 4 Apr 24.

 These were nice mini dahlias.  I had bought them last year in 4 inch pots, and planted in a large container.  They bloomed like champs.

I let the container dry out, and stored in the garage, dry, over the winter.  I didn't know if there would be tubers.  There were.  I really didn't do anything - just leave them dry, in their flowerpot.

This cluster sort of fell apart.  Each tuber has a small growing bud that looks viable.  I planted them un a circle in the container.

The other is in one cluster.  I think I see a growing point there too.

 I planted the first group back in that container.  The second can wait until tomorrow.

Here's what they looked like last summer. Kind of amazing.

Grafting GoldRush Apples Onto Redlove Calypso Espalier. 4 Apr 24.

 I discovered that I had saved some GoldRush apple scion in the refrigerator.  They were in a ziplock, fallen at the back of the dairy drawer.   There was one remaining tier, the 3rd up, to replace on the Redlove Calypso espalier, so I made some grafts.

Where I could find s stem to graft onto, I used cleft grafts.  This is a century - old illustration.  It hasn't changed.

The main thing with this carpentry, is at least one side requires the cambium layers of scion and stock are pressing against each other.  Even better if for both sides, but not required.

There were some locations I thought might be better, but no branches.  For those, I wanted to do a traditional side graft.  An illustration from the 1860s.

I've done this before, but with bud grafting.  That was cherries, in June.  This time it's apple in April.  I had difficulty getting the scion to fit in the slit, even though I was able to expose the cambium layer,  I tore some of the thin bark and cambium and did not wind up with success.  So I treated that area of the branch as a self-graft, placed the layers back together, and wrapped snugly.

Then I went with my earlier idea, and cut a thin tongue in the bark, again exposing the cambium layer.  Insert the scion into that slit,  Wrap snugly, as best I can.

Will they tKe?  Watch and wait.

Up-Potting a Hippeastrum Bulb. 3 Apr 24.

 This Hippeastrum (Amaryllis is the popular name but not accurate) was showy and delightful this winter.  I wonder if I can keep it going for next year?

Given the small pot, it will need up-potting.  I used good potting soil the first time around, instead of that useless stuff they sell with Hippeastrum bulbs.

Since I always inspect the roots, here they are.

The roots look great, despite winding around.  The bulbs are sold without roots, so they are all new.  I didn't traumatize the fleshy roots by unwinding them.  

After.

I forgot to add bone meal.  Later.

TLC for MiniRose (Daniele Kordana?). 3 Apr 24.

Here's the last of the three miniroses, which I think is Daniele Kordana.  It's done with a nice, long run on blooming.

After cleaning up and repotting.

So far I think this project, bare-rooting and planting in good quality potting soil, is right on target.  There are beginning flower buds on three of the five Sunmaid Kordana plants now.   Growth is excellent and they don't dry out suddenly on an almost daily basis like the originals did.  It's more like keeping normal vegetable starts watered.

Before dividing - the original plants.

First I cut off the flowers.  I cut back to a nice looking bud, mostly those two or three nodes below the flower.  I like to cut back so there are some buds for good low branching, but if some buds have started nice growth I keep some of those in place. 

The roots look fine.  Not too crowded and not a lot of winding around the container.

Instead of splitting the roots apart, this time I decided to wash off the soil by swirling the root mass around  in a basin of water.  I think that was more gentle on the roots.  The soil washed off easily with multiple swirlings.

I think it was easier then to separate the plants with minimal root damage.

I chose the most healthy looking plant for the largest container.  I'd like to keep that one as a specimen plant.  I planted the others as I did the Sunmaid Kordana roses, as in the first image.

I also gave each a label.