This report is very helpful. It changes significantly how I am going to supplement my garden and orchard soil this year.
I'm very impressed. It is a well written, easy to follow report. They were fast and thorough. I am happy I sent them a sample and will make use of the recommendations.
The main points-
- My soil is very acidic. They recommend lime. That also increases the calcium.
- The iron level is super high. I thought form the leaves iron was low. I planned to supplement it. Wrong thing to do.
- The recommendations include adding trace boron, trace copper. For that, add a tiny amount of borax, and a tiny amount of copper sulfate. The recommended amount is so small, I don't know if I will do anything about that. Better to under-do it than over-do it. Too much boric acid is toxic to plants.
- The recommendations include adding some epson salts for magnesium and sulfur.
- I thought the soil would need more potassium and phosphorus. In reality, the potassium is high, and phosphorus is very high. So just add a nitrogen source. Fish emulsion might be a good source.
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Garden Planning 2014. 12.24.13
From Victory Seeds, average last frost dates:
Average last frost date for Vancouver WA: May 14
Average last frost date for Battleground WA: May 21
Most of my vegetable gardening is in Battleground. One difference - I may be using water walls and row cover to protect from frost. That can pus the date forward a little.
Then from calculator on "The Cheap Vegetable Gardener" - I edited out vegetables I won't be growing and made a few other changes. Super handy calculator. The author has most of the vegetables I want to grow. I used the Battleground last date, May 21.
I think radishes could be earlier. Maybe with peas. The chart is earlier than I've been starting tomatoes.
This year I want to get out the "Wall-o-water" and see if any of them hold water. Then use them for tomatoes, peppers, okra.
Average last frost date for Vancouver WA: May 14
Average last frost date for Battleground WA: May 21
Most of my vegetable gardening is in Battleground. One difference - I may be using water walls and row cover to protect from frost. That can pus the date forward a little.
Then from calculator on "The Cheap Vegetable Gardener" - I edited out vegetables I won't be growing and made a few other changes. Super handy calculator. The author has most of the vegetables I want to grow. I used the Battleground last date, May 21.
Vegetable Name | Seed Start Date | Estimated Transplant Date |
Estimated Harvest Date |
Onion - I'm using bunching | 2/19/2014 | 4/25/2014 | 6/24/2014 |
Pak Choi (1st) | 3/12/2014 | 4/6/2014 | 5/11/2014 |
Parsley | 3/11/2014 | 5/7/2014 | 5/25/2014 |
Lettuce (1st) | 3/12/2014 | 4/6/2014 | 5/6/2014 |
Swiss Chard | 3/19/2014 | 4/20/2014 | 5/8/2014 |
Cabbage (1st) | 3/19/2014 | 5/1/2014 | 6/22/2014 |
Peppers | 3/25/2014 | 5/29/2014 | 6/23/2014 |
Tomato | 4/2/2014 | 6/4/2014 | 6/21/2014 |
Spinach (1st) | 4/9/2014 | N/A | 5/24/2014 |
Peas | 4/9/2014 | N/A | 6/13/2014 |
Turnips (1st) | 4/9/2014 | N/A | 6/8/2014 |
Watermelon | 4/16/2014 | 6/27/2014 | 7/15/2014 |
Basil | 4/24/2014 | 6/14/2014 | 7/23/2014 |
Potatoes | 4/30/2014 | N/A | 8/8/2014 |
Radish | 5/1/2014 | N/A | 6/5/2014 |
Beets | 5/1/2014 | N/A | 7/5/2014 |
Carrots (1st) | 5/10/2014 | N/A | 7/24/2014 |
Corn | 5/10/2014 | 6/7/2014 | 7/29/2014 |
Cucumber | 5/10/2014 | 6/16/2014 | 7/9/2014 |
Okra | 5/10/2014 | 6/11/2014 | 7/14/2014 |
Pumpkin | 5/10/2014 | 6/7/2014 | 8/28/2014 |
Winter Squash, | 5/10/2014 | 6/16/2014 | 8/28/14 |
Zucchini / Summer Squash | 5/10/2014 | 6/16/2014 | 7/4/2014 |
Lettuce (2nd) | 5/14/2014 | N/A | 7/8/2014 |
Beans | 6/4/2014 | N/A | 8/13/2014 |
Dill | 6/11/2014 | N/A | 8/15/2014 |
Carrots (2nd) | 6/27/2014 | N/A | 9/10/2014 |
Cabbage - Napa | 8/24/2014 | 9/21/2014 | 11/7/2014 |
Onion - Bunching | 8/24/2014 | N/A | 11/2/2014 |
Turnip (2nd) | 8/24/2014 | N/A | 10/23/2014 |
Lettuce (3rd) | 9/3/2014 | N/A | 10/28/2014 |
Spinach (2nd) | 9/10/2014 | N/A | 10/25/2014 |
Garlic | 11/12/2014 | N/A | 3/17/2015 |
I think radishes could be earlier. Maybe with peas. The chart is earlier than I've been starting tomatoes.
This year I want to get out the "Wall-o-water" and see if any of them hold water. Then use them for tomatoes, peppers, okra.
Labels:
Garden Planning,
kitchen garden,
vegetables
Fig Cuttings and Okra & Pepper Experiment. 12.24.13
It's very early to do this. But what harm does it do.
Prepped cuttings a nice guy sent me for Maccool Fig and more that another nice guy sent for Dominick fig. Both are family propagated figs that family members made available for others. Can be searched on figs4fun forum.
Washed the cuttings. Trimmed to right size about 4inches. Thoroughly clean tools betwen varieties.
Used sharp knife to make vertical incisions near base. Roots often grow much faster from the cambium layer exposed by the incisions.
Dipped in Dip-and-Grow at 1:5 dilution. This is from last year. I hope it's still good.
Labeled- very important!
Then wrapped in wet but not soggy paper towel. Place into plastic food bags. Seal.
Also set out seeds of 2 okra varieties to soak. Plant them tonight. Baby Bubba and Long Green Dwarf. Those because both are sold as more compact or dwarf so if the grow indoors I might have room for them.
And 2 pepper varieties. Tabasco and Red Portugal. Planted seeds directly in seed starter medium. I will cover with plastic in a while.
I will grow them under lights, on a heating mat. If the grow, that's very interesting. If not, it wasn't much effort. My coworker told me she starts okra plants before now and grows them all winter. I read peppers can make nice houseplants.
Labels:
cuttings,
dip-and-grow,
dominick,
fig cuttings,
figs,
maccool,
okra,
peppers,
red portugal,
tabasco
Sunday, December 22, 2013
Sauerkraut Day 2. 12.22.13
The second jar is also bubbling. Has not spilled over yet.
Saturday, December 21, 2013
Winter Solstice Gardening. 12.21.13
It was a nice day. 40s and 50s, sunny. I slept very late. Needed to, Ive been sick.
Today I did some kitchen garden chores....
Added one wheelbarrow of mole-hill soil to the last raised bed. It's about 1/3 to 1/2 full now. Covered half of that with leaf compost which after other chores was all I had left.
Added 2 wheelbarrows of 50:50 mole-hill soil:leaf compost mix, to the original first raised bed built late summer 2012. It had settled several inches. Covered with a couple of inches of leaf compost. At one end is a 6 inch wide row of chinese chives. I covered those with compost too.
Cleaned up the 2nd bed from last year. It has grown garlic, onions, and Chinese chives at one end. Then pole beans last summer. I raked out the weeds and largest pieces of straw mulch, filled in some low spots, then covered the rest, including degrading straw mulch, with a couple inches leaf compost. This bed also has a 6 inch wide row of Chinese chives at one end, which I covered with an inch of compost. Those are fully dormant, not at all visible exceot a few drued flower stalks. No tilling, not needed and causes loss of soil structure and organic matter. Now that bed is ready for next Spring.
Planted 3 rows of Egyptian Walking Onion sets I found in the garage. They were pretty dried out but look viable. Those went into a raised bed that has a low tunnel row cover for protection. It is an unusual time to plant but the soil was soft and easy to plant in - raised beds are wonderful.
Found a plum seedling and a ginkgo seedling in that last raised bed. I remember planting those seeds fall 2012. moved to where I have other tree seedlings heeled in until I figure out where to plant them.
Orchids. 12.21.13
Cymbidium hybrid |
Oncidium hybrid |
Today is Solstice, the day when the Northern Hemisphere starts facing the sun again, bathing us in the star's radiation. Longer days will follow, then warmer and ultimately Spring will come.
Meanwhile, it's nice to have some flowers blooming in my room.
Each plant summered outside with minimal attention. They are so beautiful, this year I should give them some TLC. They are all several years old. So that means I can grow orchids. Cool.
Sauerkraut. 12.21.13
Making Sauerkraut |
These are 5 pounds of organic cabbage, finely sliced with 3 tablespoons of coarse seasalt. Pounded a bit in a big bowl, packed firmly in the jars. The airlock was via the internet. I think it's not necessary, having read about other ways to seal the fermenting concoction. So the other jar has a plastic bag filled with water to seal the top. I placed in on a plate in case there is overflow.
I miked in a few spoons of kraut and a few spoons of liquid from the last batch, to jump-start the fermentation.
Now it sits for a few days or few weeks in a cool place.
If I can protect them from cabbage worms, rabbits, slugs, and deer, I want to grow cabbages and use my own to make sauerkraut, next year.
Thursday, December 19, 2013
Arbor Day Foundation Trees. 12.19.13
Crepe Myrtle |
White Dogwood |
Golden Rain Tree |
Eastern Redbud |
Last summer I joined the Arbor Day Foundation. As a bonus, they sent a tree package, which arrived yesterday.
The package contained 6 to 12 inch seedlings of: Eastern Redbud, Golden Rain Tree, Crepe Myrtle, and White Dogwood.
I heeled them in, in the vegetable bed, pending actual planting.
These were all 6 inches to a foot. We will plant them along the edges of the property. Given the small size, they will be movable for a few years if we don't like those locations.
(All images source: Commons.wikimedia.org)
Soil sample sent off for testing. 12.19.13
I sent the soil sample to "Simply Soil Testing". Since the raised beds are collected from mole hills, I went around the yard collecting soil from multiple mole hills, let it dry for a couple of weeks indoors, then packed in zip-lock bag. Tues I went to the post office and mailed the sample.
WA State extension doesn't test soil for gardeners, so I went with this commercial firm.
This is their instruction:
Now it's just a matter of waiting a week or two for the results.
Testing for organic content, pH, phosphorus, potassium, and major and trace minerals. They don't test for nitrogen, which varies too much.
WA State extension doesn't test soil for gardeners, so I went with this commercial firm.
This is their instruction:
How to Test Your Soil
1. Print out the Soil Submission Form
2. Collect soil samples from the areas to be tested. Follow the simple recommendations in our Sampling Guide to obtain soil samples that are truly representative of your soil.
3. Choose a soil test option (see table below).
4. Fill out the submission form and send it together with your soil samples and a check to the address listed on the form.
Now it's just a matter of waiting a week or two for the results.
Testing for organic content, pH, phosphorus, potassium, and major and trace minerals. They don't test for nitrogen, which varies too much.
Monday, December 16, 2013
Honeybee order for 2014.
Today had to call in sick. Don't like doing that but miserable. Just on line a few minutes then back to bed.
Checked beehive yesterday. Happy to see bees still there and healthy looking. Just pulled one bar, briefly and partially, to check. They started flying out instantly. So closed again.
I have foam and newspapers in the roof of the beehive to help with warmth. Only one of the 3 openings is open.
Went online to check varieties to order for beehive #2. The main choices are Italian and Carniolan.
Reading up (also here) on advantages and disadvantages of the subspecies - Italian honeybees are gentle, forage widely, less likely to swarm. Numbers are slower to build up. Resistance to disease and mites might be an issue. The queen has a light golden color that is easy to see.
Carniolans build up populations quicker but swarm more quickly too. They may be more disease resistant than Italian bees. The darker queen is more difficult to see.
I decided to go with Italian bees again. The deciding issues were swarm tendency. I still don't know why my numbers dropped so much late fall, but I wonder about swarming.
Disease resistance and cold tolerance would be major reasons to go for Carniolan bees. I am still thinking about them for future hives.
So I reserved a box of Italian honeybees. They arrive in April so it's a long way away. I like to plan ahead.
image source: vintageprintable.com |
I have foam and newspapers in the roof of the beehive to help with warmth. Only one of the 3 openings is open.
Went online to check varieties to order for beehive #2. The main choices are Italian and Carniolan.
Reading up (also here) on advantages and disadvantages of the subspecies - Italian honeybees are gentle, forage widely, less likely to swarm. Numbers are slower to build up. Resistance to disease and mites might be an issue. The queen has a light golden color that is easy to see.
Carniolans build up populations quicker but swarm more quickly too. They may be more disease resistant than Italian bees. The darker queen is more difficult to see.
Image source: Vintageprintable.com |
I decided to go with Italian bees again. The deciding issues were swarm tendency. I still don't know why my numbers dropped so much late fall, but I wonder about swarming.
Disease resistance and cold tolerance would be major reasons to go for Carniolan bees. I am still thinking about them for future hives.
So I reserved a box of Italian honeybees. They arrive in April so it's a long way away. I like to plan ahead.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)