Can Okra be Grown in the Pacific Northwest?

Okra is one of my holy grail plants.  For some reason I just want to grow my own.  The frozen or canned stuff is not as good as fresh.  I did manage to get a few pods this year.  There is the start of a knowledge base to build on.   I also learned that my friend at work also grows okra.

 Okra seeds were planted 5/26 in raised bed.  The only variety I tried was Clemson Spineless.  I chose that variety due to its reported short season capability.  I also planted okra seeds in newspaper lined containers on 5/26.  Those germinated faster than the ones in the raised bed.

Okra seedlings 6/4

The ground was still fairly cool.  I did not take the temperature.  I should have.  It was warm enough for tomato plants, which I already had growing in this same raised bed.

I read that okra can't be transplanted.  That's not true at all.  The plants that I started in containers grew faster and more vigorous, compared to the ones planted directly in the ground.  The container-started ones were the only plants that bore pods for me.

8/10

8/10

This was the first flower.  The plant was about one foot tall.  The leaves look unhealthy - fungal or bacterial spots.

8/10

Below are other okra plants started at the same time, and a bit of a closer shot of the flower.  Behind it are ripening tomatoes.

The first pod was elongating on 8/24.

I harvested the first pods on 9/4.  I harvested a few more 1 and 2 weeks later.  After that the plants deteriorated in the cooler days and nights.

Lessons learned.

1.  They did better as container starts.  So plan to start that way again.

2.  Clemson may or may not be the most suitable variety.  So plan to trial several varieties next year.  Possibly also Clemson Spineless if I have seeds and if they keep a year.

3.  They need more warmth than I can get in the unprotected raised beds.  Use a row cover or poly tunnel, patterned after the rebar / PVC pipe method I used this year for other plants.  I should use a lower, removable version for easier access and more workable.  Place the cover at least a few weeks early to warm the soil, leave in place until days and nights are warm.  Replace it again in September when days and nights cool off.

4.  Take the soil temperature.


Okra Varieties to try 2014:

Baby Bubba  From Burpee, a hybrid, dwarf variety.  53 days.  Can be grown in containers as well - warmer soil.  3 to 4 feet tall.

Emerald Okra From Victory Seeds.  55 days.

Dwarf Green Long Pod Okra.  From Victory Seeds.  52 days.  Plant heights 24 to 30 inches tall, and reported to grow in Northern gardens.  I want the shorter size in case they do well, but need cover later in the season.

Clemson Spineless.  Again.  55 days, grow 3 to 5 feet tall.

8/24

9/5

The main info I find on okra, from multiple sites, is okra is fairly drought tolerant, but does not tolerate cold. One site discusses growing okra in Wisconsin.  From that site:  " In northern areas, start seeds indoors in peat pots several weeks before the soil warms up. Or direct seed through black plastic and cover the rows with plastic tunnels to hold in the heat. To hasten germination, soak seeds overnight in tepid water or freeze them to crack their coats. Sow seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, 3 to 4 inches apart. Set out transplants to stand 1 to 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart."

Link to "All about okra"  

Oregon State University suggests a plastic mulch and wind protection.  I can do that.  They also state "Night temperatures should be above 55 F for good growth.
Minimum soil temperature for germination is 60 F. Optimum soil temperature range is 75-90 F." 

In addition, OSU article states:  " Sow seeds in 2-inch pots or cell-packs, 3 seeds per pot, 1/4 inch deep, 4-5 weeks ahead of transplanting. Thin to 1 plant per pot or cell."  So the not-transplanting info is not accurate.

On mulch, they state: "Black plastic mulch may increase soil temperatures, will control weeds, and conserve moisture, increasing yield and earliness... it is critical...the soil surface be smooth and...the plastic adhere to the soil surface. ...Clear plastic mulch is very effective at increasing soil temperature but does not control weeds."   Other plastics are discussed.  Black or clear aplastic mulch might help tomatoes and peppers too.  They discuss using row cover or other options for tunnels:  "...row covers may be used for 4-8 weeks immediately after transplanting...removed when plants begin to flower to permit proper pollination. Row covers can increase heat unit accumulation by 2-3 times over ambient...Soil temperatures and root growth can also be increased under row covers as are early yields, and in some cases total yields."

So with some research, and the raised bed infrastructure in place, I hope to have a better okra crop next year.

Early early early planning for next year

I ordered the following seeds from http://www.victoryseeds.com/.

3270021	Dwarf Green Long Pod Okra		$1.95		1		$1.95
3270071	Emerald Okra		$1.95		1		$1.95
3250351	Minnesota Midget Melon		$2.25		1		$2.25
3030061	Roma II Bush Green Bean Size Options: 1 ounce - $2.25		$2.25		1		$2.25
3310141	Cayenne Long Red Hot Pepper		$1.95		1		$1.95
3310171	Hungarian Yellow Wax Hot Pepper		$1.95		1		$1.95
3370211	Dark Green Zucchini Summer Squash		$1.75		1		$1.75
3300011	Oregon Sugar Pod II Pea		$1.95		1		$1.95

It's early.  Planning ahead gives me something to look forward to.

Some of the choices are proven performers for me.  The zucchini, Roma bean, Minnesota Midget melon, and the peppers have all done well.  Some are my standards.  The Okra varieties have potential due to their short season - the okra.  Some are shorter growing, so may work OK in a covered bed.  So far I held back on tomatoes.  I have lots of tomato seeds from previous years.

I also placed this order from Burpee.  Except for the compact Okra, all are heirloom varieties.

YOUR PURCHASE INFORMATION
NAME	SKU	DESCRIPTION	QTY	PRICE/ITEM	TOTAL ITEM
Okra, Baby Bubba Hybrid(54114A - 1 Pkt. (35 seeds))	54114A	This dwarf variety is only half as tall as other okras and perfect for large containers.	1	$4.95	$4.95
Borage(61481A - 1 Pkt. (200 seeds))	61481A	Young leaves for salads and lemonade.	1	$4.95	$4.95
Pepper, Hot, Lemon(54320A - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds))	54320A	HEIRLOOM. From Ecuador, as hot as any Cayenne, but with a truly unique flavor.	1	$5.25	$5.25
Pepper, Sweet, Banana(62976A - 1 Pkt. (125 seeds))	62976A	HEIRLOOM. An All-America Selections Bronze Medal winner for 1941 and still extremely popular.	1	$3.95	$3.95
Pepper, Hot, Tabasco(53275A - 1 Pkt.)	53275A	Small, very hot peppers that lend the kick to the famous hot sauce.	1	$4.95	$4.95

I want  to use1/2 of a a raised bed entirely for peppers.  Foraging in the vegetable garden for them was fun this year.  They added a lot of flavor to many meals.  They need some extra animal protection.  Maybe a chicken-wire fence.

The plan for okra is to raise plants indoors.   Then transfer to a covered raised bed, for warmer growth.  If last years' seeds grow, I may also have Clemson spineless.  Which didn't do great, but were my first attempt, ever, at growing okra.  It was nice using a few pods in soups.

A raised bed is 4 X 8 feet.  A half bed is 4 X 4 but one will be 2 X 8.

Thinking about it - 

1/2 bed for okra

1/2 bed for tomatoes.  Maybe a whole bed.

1/2 bed for peppers

1/2 bed for bush beans.
1/2 bed for pole beans.
1/2 bed for Zucchinis.
1/2 bed for butternut squash.
1/2 bed for melons.

This totals to 4 raised beds for summer / fall vegetables.

1/4 bed for snow peas. These are early, something can replace them in June.

Currently I have 1 bed planted in garlic.  Done in June so can be used for warm season vegetable.
1 bed for onions.  Also done in June so reusable.  That worked well this year for beans.
1/2 bed is shallots.  Those are done in July so can be used for a late vegetable.
1 bed is ready for winter or fall growing.  Maybe greens, radishes, scallions.

There are 11 1/2 raised beds, or will be when I finish the 1 1/2 currently pending.  3 are flowers, 1 is strawberry, leaving 7 1/2.  Other thoughts:  Eggplants.  have been a challenge, maybe1/2 of a covered bed would be warmer.   Chinese cabbages.  Those get eaten by cabbage worms. Even one with a row cover disappeared. 

The last 1 1/2 raised beds.  I have the wood.  It is cut.  Half of the holes are pre-drilled.  Maybe I'll assemble the sides this weekend.  I need to check on whether I have liner and hardware cloth or chicken wire to annoy the moles that want to tunnel into the beds.

The pics are all from Commons.wikimedia.org.

Planning for 2014 Garden

I've been looking in the online catalogs for next year.  I know it's early.

Main things I'm interested in so far -

Short season Okra.  This year I had a few on "Clemson Seedless" but nothing to write home about.  I want to try containerized and transplants.  Burpee has a dwarf hybrid, "Bubba". 

Bush Butternut Squash.  Also from Burpee.  It would be better, take less room in a raised bed.

Snowpeas - this time, I want to grow the actual Chinese type.  If not in an online catalog, I can probably buy local.

So far.  Peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, beans too.

Today's harvest

 

 

 

Today's Harvest

I was happy with today's harvest.  A zucchini, a cucumber, a nice batch of tomatoes, pole beans, and the first two okra, ever.  Tomorrow:  Barley / tomato soup with home-grown okra, home grown garlic, and home grown onions.

Kitchen Garden

Chinese cucumber

 Selected shots of the kitchen garden.

Chinese cucumber is blooming.  Shouldn't be long before we get some cucumbers.

Illinois Everbearing Mulberry.  This will be the last of them..  I will savor them.  They are so good.

Cherry tomatoes are bearing a few handfulls now.

Cantaloupe is in bloom.  Whether we get some remains to be seen.

Mulberry Illinois Everbearing

Cherry Tomatoes Sungold and SuperSweet 100

Cantaloupe "Minnesota" miniature

Okra Clemson Spineless

 There are a couple of okra flowers.  If we get just one okra, it will be fun.  The plants that did best were the ones I grew in containers then planted into the raised bed.  The direct seeded plants remain puny.

Not pictured, the swiss chard is big and productive.

The pole beans are just beginning to bloom.

Kitchen Garden.

Broccoli

Broccoli in container

 A few minor notes on kitchen garden.

The broccoli is ready.  I didn't know when to harvest.  One of the heads started to open its flowers.  So I waited too long.  Harvested the rest.  Left a few side shoots in case they decide to produce.

German chamomile is blooming like crazy.  The honeybees are not so enthusiastic about this plant.  They are much more interested in Ceanothis.  Blackberries within 10 feet of the beehive are starting to bloom, and honeybees are starting to show interest in the blackberry blossoms.

Okra seedlings are on their cotyledons.  Not bad.  I was surprised they sprouted so soon in  the rainy cool week.

Tomato plants are growing nicely.  No pic uploaded.

Also not pictured, we ate barley soup, with added fresh rosemary, parsley, and oregano, all from the heritage iris / herb bed.  Then today I had eggs with chives, and sliced chives onto left over barley soup.  All very good, great flavor.

We had the first fresh strawberries.  Most were not so good.  Woody.  I don't know why.  I don't think it's the variety.  I've had good strawberries from these plants before.  Maybe it was the deer/rabbit defoliation.  They have mostly recovered from that. A couple of fresh strawberries were perfect.

We had a few more snow peas.  The few plants don't bear enough to cook.  Ate them raw.  Next year try starting them in containers.  To get more plants.

German Chamomile

Okra seedlings

Planting Seeds.

Spring Seed Planting

These are the seeds I planted in the past week.

Alyssum and Bonanza Mix Marigolds in the tomato bed.  They sprouted during the rains of the last week.  Also planted alyssum seeds in the border of the new iris raised bed.

Clemson Spineless Okra - Also in the tomato bed.  Clemson Spineless was introduced by Clemson University in 1939, 50-64 days.  That's in an ideal hot climate - possibly 2 or 3 months here if it bears at all.  After one week of rain, I also saw sprouts.  I read that they require soaking and heat.  So I started some today after soaking with 2 changes of water, for several hours.  I also read Okra doesn't respond well to transplanting.  The seeds I planted today I planted in newspaper-lined containers to reduce transplant shock.

Swiss Chard - in empty squares of the iris bed I set up last weekend.  It will be mid to late summer before I add the irises in those spaces.  I don't want to leave it with bare soil.  Space is at a premium.

Petite Yellow Watermelon ( 65-80 days) and Blacktail Mountain Watermelon (65-75 days) - Haven't tried watermelons here.  Starting in containers, today.  Then into raised bed.  Cleared some space in the raised bed, from winter vegetables.  Some of those didn't do well, others have been harvested - radishes, greens.

Minnesota Midget Canteloupe (60-75 days).  Haven't tried these either.  These are a small melon, 4 inches, and the vines are 3 feet long.  May plant them in containers, not sure yet.  Also starting in containers, today.

Japanese Soyu Burpless Cucumber (65 days).  Starting in containers today.  Will find a place for them.

Asparagus Pea (60-75 days).  Starting in containers.  Will need to fine a place for them too.

Parisian Carrot (55 days) and Red Cored Chantenay Carrot.  (70 Days).  Also in the new iris bed, for the same reason.

Also some cleome seeds for Ning's meadow.

Also the last of the sweet potatoes.  One week ago, I discovered what looked like near dead sweet potato starts in the mailbox.  They were there for the weekend.  I cleaned them up and planted the best looking ones in a half barrel.  These sweet potatoes were described as an early variety, good for the North.  The remaining set I placed in a glass of water, with daily water changes.  They also look better, grew new roots, so I planted them today.

Tomato Bed

Tomato Bed

Tomatoes, planted and ready for some sunshine.  The 3  smaller ones were plants I grew from seeds.  Late start for those.  Also some basil plants.  Last week in this tomato cage, I also planted 2 rows of okra, and edges of sweet alyssum seeds and marigold seeds, which have germinated.

Kitchen Garden Plan

This is the plan for the kitchen garden for next year.  I used a high-tech method called "writing on an old mailing envelope using a pen".  Bio-powered system.

The three beds on the eastern side are planted as noted. When the alliums are done, in July, I can prep those beds for crop rotation, adding in compost and start fall-planted radishes, cabbages, turnips, mesclun. Another option is late-planted bush beans. I'll build the two late-winter beds next. That will give the coli/compost/supplement mix a chance to settle and "cure" before planting. Probably late feb. Those are fast growing. When they are done, the warm-requiring solanums (eggplant, chilis, tomatoes) and Okra can go in. The taller ones will go to the back. I can build the other beds through the winter and prep them in early Spring, March and April, before they need to be planted in May or June. By then I'll be tired of building raised beds and, especially, hauling soil to them. The soil hauling is heavy work.

One great thing about planning on paper is, I can continue changing it as I think of better choices.

The raised beds now. The soil pile and compost pile are in approx locations for two of the beds. I hope people don't think someone is buried there.

It's great to have company, even if they are sleeping.