Tuesday, December 04, 2012

Kitchen Garden Plan

This is the plan for the kitchen garden for next year.  I used a high-tech method called "writing on an old mailing envelope using a pen".  Bio-powered system.
The three beds on the eastern side are planted as noted. When the alliums are done, in July, I can prep those beds for crop rotation, adding in compost and start fall-planted radishes, cabbages, turnips, mesclun. Another option is late-planted bush beans. I'll build the two late-winter beds next. That will give the coli/compost/supplement mix a chance to settle and "cure" before planting. Probably late feb. Those are fast growing. When they are done, the warm-requiring solanums (eggplant, chilis, tomatoes) and Okra can go in. The taller ones will go to the back. I can build the other beds through the winter and prep them in early Spring, March and April, before they need to be planted in May or June. By then I'll be tired of building raised beds and, especially, hauling soil to them. The soil hauling is heavy work.

One great thing about planning on paper is, I can continue changing it as I think of better choices.

The raised beds now. The soil pile and compost pile are in approx locations for two of the beds. I hope people don't think someone is buried there.
It's great to have company, even if they are sleeping.


  1. Awesome plan. We just finalized our front & back garden plans using the "whiteboard & dry-erase marker" technique.


    I love your raised beds. I looked into building some myself but new wood seemed ridiculously expensive(more than the soil to fill them). Is wood cheap in Washington or did you just decide it was worth the expense?

  2. Shannon, thanks for the comment. Whenever possible I recycle or reuse, but these beds are new boards. The 8 foot long 2X6s were not too expensive, and for me worth it. Also worth the work - the raised beds are so much easier to work with once completed, compared to in-ground. I might regret using untreated lumber. I do not want toxic chemicals so my thought is if they rot in a few years, I'll compost them and replace them. So far the soil is free although the compost I'm mixing with it is not. I get that at a recycling center by the truckload.