Seed Catalog Order

Not exactly the same as planned, but it's exciting to look ahead. I ordered from Burpee this year. I liked their user reviews of varieties, accessible right on the variety description. It looks honest - varieties that are labeled as user favorites, and featured prominently, are not necessarily the ones that won the reviews. For example, most thought that Tomato variety "Red Lightening" was tough-skinned and not flavorful. Much less expensive, and much older variety, "Supersweet 100" had a much higher rating for flavor, but complaints about splitting - exactly my experience. "Brandy Boy" was panned by many who grew it - so I changed my mind and went to old reliable "Better Boy", which has that old growing-up-in-the-midwest flavor, is reliable, disease resistant, and bears many big juicy tomatoes. I also added Black Truffle hybrid due to rave reviews, but kept Northen Exposure and 4th of July despite so-so reviews, as an experiment due to early bearing properties and reported tolerance to cold.

Photo Thumbnails from Burpee.com (note - they aren't paying me anything at all to post, or giving me any special deal or product - this is just my garden log. But I hope it's OK to include them in this discussion. Full sized photos can be seen at the Burpee website)

55103A Bush Bean Roma II 53 days - 1 Pkt. (2 oz.) 1 $2.95




83139 Burpee Booster for Beans and Peas - 1-3oz. Pkg (40' row) 1 $8.25

53512A Snap Pea Super Sugar Snap V.P. 64 days - 1 Pkt. (200 seeds) 1 $3.95

52936A Tomato Fourth of July Hybrid 49 days - 1 Pkt. (40 seeds) 1 $3.95




56663A Tomato Northern Exposure Hybrid 67 days - 1 Pkt. (30 Seeds) 1 $3.95

56812A Tomato Cherokee Purple (Heirloom) 85 days - 1 Pkt. (50 seeds) 1 $3.95

52027A Tomato Super Sweet 100 Hybrid (Cherry) 70 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $2.95

67265A Tomato Black Truffle Hybrid 75 days - 1 packet (30 seeds) 1 $3.95




50724A Tomato Better Boy Hybrid 72 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $3.95

62120A Tomato Black Pearl Hybrid 65 days - Packet (30 seeds) 1 $5.25

65005A Bush Bean Eureka 55 days - Packet (2 oz.) 1 $3.95




54460A Eggplant Millionaire Hybrid 55 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $2.95




65025A Eggplant Fairy Tale 50 days - Packet (30 seeds) 1 $5.25

54148A Hot Pepper Big Red Hybrid 70 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $3.95

63770A Pepper Red Popper 55 days - Packet (40 seeds) 1 $4.75

56020A Costa Rican Sweet Pepper 70 days - Packet (40 seeds) 1 $4.75




57109A Zucchini Sweet Zuke Hybrid 48 days - 1 Pkt. (25 seeds) 1 $3.95




53231A Zucchini Butterstick Hybrid 50 days - 1 Pkt. (25 seeds) 1 $2.95




62810A Cucumber Palace King Hybrid (Oriental) 62 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $4.95




62802A Cucumber Early Pride Hybrid (Slicing) 55 days - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds) 1 $2.95

91056 Seedling Heat Mats - 1 Mat - 10in.X20-3/4in. 1 $36.75

This seems like a lot of expense, but I take the following into account:
1. It's a hobby.
2. Given the evaluations, and my past experience, I'm confident that most of these are high-potential varieties in my yard. I chose for early yield, reported disease resistance, and either my personal experience of reliability or multiple reviews. With storebought, it's more difficult to do this.
3. For tomatoes, varieties that turn out well - and a few are already proven performers - this is a 3 or 4-year supply of seeds. Some are admittedly experiments - 4th of July due to reported very early yield, Northern Exposure for reported good bearing in cool short summers. I usually experiment with a couple of new types - I love the black varieties, so will try Black Truffle. Cherokee Purple has always done well for me, as have Better Boy, Supersweet 100, and Lemon Boy. I'll see if my old Lemon Boy seeds sprout, if not see if some are locally available, since Burpee doesn't carry them. They should do fine, they are only 1 year old seeds.
4. For the beans, this will be enough for about 20 meals for two. Plus, when the plants quit bearing, they are fed to the chickens and become eggs. Both the Romas and the yellow beans are excellent, better than anything from the store.
5. For the zucchinis and cucumbers, two plants of each variety will be enough for many meals and snacks, plus some to give away, plus some for the chickens.
6. The pepper seeds may also last 4 years or more. I'm not sure about what to expect, but experience tells me they last longer than that.
7. The eggplants are listed as early bearing varieties. In fact, among the earliest. That's needed here, because they start late and bear late.

The seed mat is part of my master plan for peppers, especially, but also tomatoes and some of the others. Warmer start means faster start, and maybe even more seeds will sprout. It should last a long time. One year I used a heating pad - it seemed to help, but not recommended, they are not made for that.

Cool Orchids

Cool terrestrial orchids. I enjoy looking at the photos, even if I haven't bought them.

In addition to (or because of) being very cool, they're also expensive. I can't justify the price. I suspect it's OK with the company if I show their product (note - no connection between me and the company. I haven't even bought their product - yet) -

White Flower Farm orchids

Cypripedium reginae

Cypripedium parviflorum pubescens. "
evenly moist, humus-rich soil with a slightly acid to neutral pH and dappled shade."

Then there are Bletilla, which are East Asian ground orchids but not lady slippers.
Bletilla ochracea Chinese Butterfly


Bletilla striata Kuchibeni. This one is more in my price range. I don't know if these will thrive in the Pacific Northwest dry-summer climate. The Cypripedium, either, for that matter.





They also carry a burgundy Paphiopedilium hybrid. However, I already have one. The instructions note "Lady's Slipper Orchids thrive in bright but indirect light. An east-facing window is ideal, but plants can also grow well in a south- or west-facing window if shaded somewhat by neighboring plants or a sheer curtain. If the leaves begin to bleach to a pale green or yellow green color, then your plant is receiving too much light. Lady's Slippers need warm temperatures (70-80°F) during the day and cool temperatures (60-65°F) at night to set their flower buds. They also prefer a high relative humidity -- upwards of 50%." Since my little plant has pale leaves, it may have had too much light, but now it's in a shaded W. window, and during the winter in Pacific NW I don't think that excessive light is an issue.

The Cypripedium really is out of my range. Maybe if I won the lotto. I keep thinking about the lower priced Bletilla.... It's the only way I'll ever see one in person. I'll think about it for a while. There is one spot that might work, with shade from large old Cherry tree, privacy fence on west, and chicken house on south. Exposure is East, and this is the spot were I moved most of the hostas. If it is kept from drying out too much in the midsummer, it might work.


Wikipedia on Cypripedium: "As with most terrestrial orchids, the rhizome is short and robust, growing in the uppermost soil layer. The rhizome grows annually with a growth bud at one end and dies off at the other end. The stem grows from the bud at the tip of the rhizome. Most slipper orchids have an elongate erect stem, with leaves growing along its length." (Illustration from Wikipedia, Cypripedium acaule)

Here's another site I ran across. The prices are getting more tempting. I can't vouch for the source.

New Year's Day Rose Pruning

This is considered the "wrong time" to prune roses. However, I see it done now, and earlier, around my neighborhood and their's do fine. The theory is that early pruning stimulates early, frost sensitive growth. That tender growth uses the plant's stored sugars, and when the new grow freezes and dies, there's nothing left for replacement growth.

Maybe my neighbors created a Darwinian evolution, with the easily killed varieties now dead, and the varieties that tolerate midwinter pruning thriving. Whatever the case, waiting longer means more work in the Spring, so I also pruned one of our two rose beds. Most of these are David Austin, own-root varieties. A few are rustled (home cuttings from a bouquet or rogue bush in the treeway), also own-root. A couple are grafted tea or florabundas.

Difficult to see them in the jumble. Heights from 3 to 6 feet tall.

Some modern authors recommend just cutting back a little, with shears, and not being too specific with what is cut. I suspect they haven't tried this method organically. I try to remove all dead and diseased canes, and all crossing or misdirected canes, and generally thin a little. I also cut them back more. My theory is that I'm removing more disease potential, and since I grow organically I don't use any toxic sprays. There may be fewer or less humongous blossoms, but there are plenty and I like them as they are.

After, most are now 1 foot tall. A few grocery-store miniatures, that I felt sorry for and planted about 5 years ago, I pruned almost to the ground. Tamora, a rank-growing David Austin variety, I basically pruned to 2 feet and didn't thin much. Too difficult now and I was wearing out. Scepter'ed Isle, another own-root David Austin variety, had grown to 6 ft tall. I pruned it back to about 2 feet, it was just way too tall.

Dendrobium orchid, and a book review

This week I saw this one at Trader Joes. I'm much pickier now, since I seem to have at least one of each of the readily available, home-grower-friendly genus / intergeneric hybrids. If subsequent seasons result in a mini-Cattleya, laeliocattleya, or similar small home-friendly variety; or a miniCymbidium, I might add those. But the current collection is enough to see if they will actually grow and rebloom in my home setting.

Authors differ on whether to repot new orchids on purchase. I did, moving this plant into a ceramic orchid pot with many holes in the sides. Maybe should have sought a bigger one, this had a small amount of extra room but not much. By planting in an orchid pot, I think I'm less likely to cause rot diseases by overwatering.

I've been using a standard Ortho orchid food at recommended strength, about half of the time when I water. The package recommends using every time, but it seems excessive in winter. I also used a standard orchid bark-based mix for the repotting.

For some reason, I like the cane-type pseudobulb varieties (Dendrobium group) and pseudobulb varieties (Oncidium) more than the rosette and other monopodals. I don't know why I prefer these. Plus, Paphiopedilum are rosette-type, and I like them. No accounting for my own taste, I just like them more. The cane-type have an almost bamboo-like appearance.

Book Review.
I bought a book at Safeway, "Easy Orchids" by Mimi Luebbermann. It's a nice little book, lots of pictures (which is why I bought it), and discusses briefly numerous of the easy-to-grow types. A fun book to read and keep for later browsing.

Traditional New Years Day Grape Pruning

Each year, I prune grapevines on New Year's Day. It's a good way to remember to do it. Plus, I don't have to remember "It seemed to work last year, but when did I do it?". Despite aches and pains, I pruned. Carefully.

Observations this year: There are a lot more dead canes and spurs than I've seen before. Must be the record cold in November - down to 12 degrees, several days. Venus appears the most susceptable, but all varieties had some dieback.

For the most part, I kept to the spur method, leaving new stems with 2 buds past the initial growth. Last year there were too many grapes, so I thinned some spurs to 1 to 2 new stems. In addition, I removed some larger branches from Canadice, which I don't like as much, and left a new cane from Venus, which I like better, to fill in. I also left 2 replacement canes on Interlaken, which I like a lot; same for Price - my favorite of all. On Price, I may have left too many spurs, but it started raining. Plus, Price clusters are smaller, so more spurs may be a good idea.

The larger grape arbor, before pruning. Canadice on left, Interlaken on right, and Venus on left, in back.

Grape arbor after pruning. Some of the canes were twice my height, so 12 feet of growth. Without major pruning, they would quickly get out of hand.

Price grape, before pruning.

Price grape, after pruning. I left a couple of canes as well, in case too many spurs died.

Working from home

Working at home. Admittedly, on my "Day off". However, assuming that I'm going to work anyway, and it's all on the computer, there are some advantages:



1. Comfort. I can use the more casual furniture and be much more comfortable.
2. My loyal companion is there to keep me company in a good way.
3. No interruptions and derailment. I work much, much more efficiently.
4. I can keep the heating pad going for my multiple aches.
5. It's really more ergonomic.
6. I have my "jungle" to keep my spirits lifted.
7. Even though I've posted it on the internet, my office is MY office, a private place where no one can interfere, evaluate me, pass judgement on my decisions.


8. I love watching the birds at the feeders. Unfortunately, when I grab the camera, they all fly away. So here's just one. It's very relaxing and lifts the spirits, when I see motion from the corner of my visual field, look up, and there are the birds. My workspace faces the window.

9. Did I mention my loyal companion, Charlie?
10. No gas burned getting there.
11. No need to bring meals or eat out.
12. No traffic hassles.
13. When I do break from the issue at hand, it's to do something that regenates me, rather than derails me.

So I don't mind too much, working at home. And I am happy that it's a bit greener than working at work.

My Tomatoes for 2010: first thoughts /catalog

Uh oh. Burpee catalog came. Temptation is SO strong. I think I will be assimilated. Resistance is futile.

With tomatoes, I generally go with the following:

Traditional hybrid - for sentimental reasons, usually Better Boy 72 days.
Heritage Black - usually Cherokee Black or Black Krim, 80 days
Hybrid Yellow - usually Lemon Boy
Traditional Cherry - usually Supersweet 100, 70 days

Those are all highly reliable in my garden. Then, I usually add something new, mix of hybrid and heritage. From the Burpee catalog, here are my current temptations:

BrandyBoy Hybrid - Burpee states, 78 days, Brandywine with disease resistance and productivity added

Northern Exposure, 78 days, bred for cool short summers.

Fourth of July, 49 days, wow, that's early!

Black Pearl, 65 days, hybrid cherry

Red Lightening, 82 days, striped salad tomato, for novelty.

The list may change, but I like the variety, and combination of "old faithful" reliable, tasty varieties that I like plus some experimentation for earliness and novelty.

Garden Resolutions 2010

Working on garden resolutions to mark New Year's 2010. It's a good time for resolutions and plans. Starting with the challenges and successes of 2009, what changes should we make?

Challenges - much of the garden had to be neglected, especially during summer and fall. The limited time for the garden meant there were more weeds, it looked more untidy, and there was lost opportunity for mental rejuvenation. By planning ahead, I hope to reduce some maintenance and have a better looking an more productive yard.

During the winter months, there isn't much to do with the growing plants. However, I can get in more pruning, so it won't have to happen when the garden is busier. In addition, I can get beds cleaned up and mulched. One challenge is the cat(s) using much for litter box. I don't mind, but digging up the mulch results in more weeds. Maybe chicken wire covering the mulch? Haven't decided.

This year the tomatoes, my favorite crop, were poor producers. This may have been due to planting the tomato bed too many years in a row - probably 5 years. So they'll be moved. We'll build new raised beds on the South side of the house, add chicken compost, and these will be designated tomato beds. This is also a warmer and sunnier location, so there will be benefit in microclimate as well.

The peaches were the best ever, but I left too many on the trees. Lesson learned, thin them early to 1 or 2 per 6-inch stem. Same for apples.

Garden Resolutions, 2010:

1. I resolve to continue the tradition of normal New Year's grape pruning (note to spine: please cooperate. Up movements seem OK, it's typing, like now, that's killing me). The pruning will be more extensive this year, to limit # of grape bunches. There were too many in 2009. Limiting #s should mean larger, juicier grapes.

2. I resolve to complete rose pruning in January. This is normally delayed for later, but my neighbor's roses do fine with this early pruning, so it's time to get it out of the way so that there are fewer things to do in Spring. If this kills a rose bush or 2 or 3.... well, that's more room to try something new.

3. I resolve to insert barriers around raspberries (for spreading branbles). and at least one fig tree (for roots). These barriers will mean less maintenance to control invasive vines and roots.

4. I resolve to get everything ready for tomato seedlings, during the winter. That way, if it's busy when time to plant the seeds, all that I will need to do is actually plant the seeds. Less delay, better potential crop.

5. I resolve to improve hardscaping with better edging in front yard, to keep out weeds.

6. Based on what went well, the peaches are already covered with plastic. I intend to use last year's blog post to guide in removal of cover.

7. New fruits: as discussed previously, I have already determined locations for mulberry and the 2 additional miniature apple trees.

8. I resolve to make another attempt at apple grafting. Last year was not successful. I think part of the reason was the scions were transported at room temperature for >24 hours. If I can get some mid winter, I'll plan to transport them on ice. Alternatively, there may be some local trees to graft. My "neighbor tree" graft had excellent tasting, although small, apples this year. I could use more of those.

9. I resolve to pause with a day or 2 off work, at least every other month, planned ahead, truly set aside for self regeneration. If I can, a week off to stay at home.

10. I resolve to revisit this list later, for further plans and adjustments.

Winter Solstice

Photo from wikipedia here. Photo of Stonehenge in 1877.

This posting is a week late, but I wanted to acknowledge the Solstice. For ancient peoples, as the days became shorter and shorter, the sun dimmer, the weather colder and chillier, and life in general gloomier, the solstice represented an end to the decline, and the beginning of seasonal rebirth.

In modern times, we are more removed from nature. We have the advantages of technology and modern civilization. We artifically brighten our days, and work hours that the ancients could not imagine. Even though we aren't being overrun by Vikings and Romans, and even though we have vaccines and medicines, the short days, dimmer sunlight, gloom and discomfort of winter affects us. At least, it affect me.

When I acknowledge the solstice, I acknowledge that it's the start of a new year. Better than New Year's day, better than religious holidays, Solstice is the moment when the planet and sun are seen to continue their cycle and influence our lives.

I'm glad for the start of a new Year, following solstice. Time to think about how I'll live it.

Book Review #2. "Backyard Fruits and Berries"

After giving a barely lukewarm review of another book (click on label "Book Reviews", I wanted to choose a book that I felt more positive about. Here is one. Others are expected to follow.

Again, this book covers the subject of the title. Backyard Fruits and Berries, by Miranda Smith. I bought it locally, but it was not at the bookstore when I looked last week. Available on Amazon.com here.

This is a well packaged book with lots of drawings and photos - a benefit for me. The initial chapters discuss placement of fruit trees, preparation of the site before planting, digging the hole, and planting the trees. The illustration on page 35 is in line with my understanding of how trees should be planted, and shows the concept well. There are chapters on tree care, including mulching, pruning, training. Some of the illustrated techniques are appropriate for the Backyard Orchardist, such as fan-shape, cordon, and espalier, but no discussion of the Backyard Orchard Culture method, including summer pruning, close planting, and maintaining small size. That concept (click on labels for Backyard Orchard Culture, and Dave Wilson Nurseries) is probably just too new for wide publication in books. I mention it here because I expect it to be central to home fruit growers in the future.

There is also a section on grafting. This is great! Also, propagating by cuttings. Any book that empowers the backyard gardener to grow their own, choosing varieties based on their neighbor's or family's experiences, is welcomed. For the avid home orchardist, to share their favorite varieties, and to try new ones by grafting or cuttings, even if they don't know the variety's name, is very welcome.

The sections on disease and insect control are rich with photos, and organically-inclined. Also a plus. I don't like reading about insects and disease damage, because it makes me wonder how we get any fruit at all - but we do, and it's great to see the organic approach.

Fruit specific sections include the usuals, and some unusuals, including apples, apricots, cherries, citrus, figs, pears, plums, and many types of vines and berries.
It includes Asian pears, which I think are an "up and coming fruit" for the home gardener. The plum varieties include European and Asian as well. Sour and sweet cherries are discussed separately - a sensible division given that there are some cultural differences.

The one drawback is already mentioned - Some day we'll need a book which emphasizes summer pruning, multi-tree-in-one-hole methods, and overall philosophy of Backyard Orchard Culture also here. This would include experiences outside of the area where this concept originated, because what works in California may not work, or may require other nuances, elsewhere.

I couldn't find a section on multigraft trees. Many books discourage multigraft, because one variety often overpowers the others. However, the small home orchard is based partly on more involved management, including pruning, and the multigraft may be the best, least expensive, and most reasonable way to have multiple varieties and polinator trees, in a small space. That oversight is minor.

I give "Backyard Fruits and Berries" an "A". It is one of my favorites.

Book Review: "The Fruit Expert"

I like reading books about gardening methods. The different books all have their pros and cons. Looking at the local bookstores, the garden sections seems to be getting smaller, so it's useful to have a bibliography of useful books. Amazon isn't the same as browsing through a book, it's difficult to tell what you might get.

So here's a review of one that I use from time to time. "The Fruit Expert" by Dr. D.G. Hessayon

Availability: This book is currently available at Amazon.com. I don't know current availability at bookstores.

Copyright: 2004

This book is written for the British gardener / home orchardist, although I found many sections useful for my own, Pacific NW garden. It is organized by the fruit type, and includes a forward on planting and an afterward on fruits that can be purchased from the store.

The planting method appears to match with other resources, although the author recommends a planting mix of soil+peat+bone meal. I think that current literature recommends not amending the soil, or not amending it much, because over-rich and over-loose planting mixture can lead to a 'flowerpot-effect', keeping the roots inside the hole and leading to a swampy soggy pocket in the hole. I have never seen that happen either, but now I only add minimal amendment to my planting mix.

Fruit varieties: The author discusses most of the major fruit types, including apple, apricot, cherries, pears, figs, plums, peaches, berries, and soft fruits or berries. The varieties won't generally be appropriate to the American gardener. The pruning section is "OK" but does not discuss summer pruning or backyard orchard culture, which I think is essential for the backyard gardener. The fig section was discouraging, probably due to limited usefullness in the UK. There is nothing on Asian Plums or Asian Pears. I don't know if these grow in the UK. The disease section contains many useful photos. This is not a book for the organically minded.

Overall grade: "C". Interesting for a book that is labeled "The world's best selling book on fruit". The photos are nice to look at. The planting method does not appear up to date. The pruning methods are not up to date or the best for the backyard gardener. The varieties are not useful to the American gardener.

I didn't realize until now, how poor this book is. I actually get it out and read it now and then, but there are better resources for either the novice or the expert.

Orchid report

This is the Oncidium that I repotted in the fall, thinking I was about to kill it either from bad timing or neglect. After initially potting in sphagnum, I read that sphagnum leads to rot, so I repotted it again in bark-based medium. Then left it to grow in an East exposure window. The newest pseudobulb is now the biggest, the new leaves are the greenest, and the start of a flower spike has begun to peek out at the first leaf. Cool or what! It's now in my home office, south window. With Northwest winters, even the southern exposure shouldn't be too much in Dec/Jan.

Backbulb start, taken from above Oncidium. Started in sphagnum, then potted into bark 2 weeks ago. Appears to be growing nicely. I think that sphagnum is OK for backbulb starts, since they need more moisture and there is thought to be antifungal/antibacterial property to sphagnum. Even if it takes a year or two to bloom, it is very cool to have started it myself!


One of the new oncidiums developed a pseudobulb infection, so is in quarantine. The good news is that I had decided I didn't like that one anyway/

Garden Log, Dec. 25 2009

Now we are past the solstice, so the days will start to lengthen. Even so, the coldest days are ahead of us. Today is bright and sunny, frost on the ground, so a new banner is added showing the frost on the candytuft.


View of my home office, from outside. It's great having a green place, with flowers blooming, and where I can look out to the birds in the feeder.

The Rhode Island Reds ('Rhodies') are laying an egg each day. So are the Australorps, which are too shy to photograph, and the Leghorn. We've been giving away a lot of eggs. They are one of the few things from the garden now, so it's great to have a reminder that the yard can still be productive in the Winter.

The Leghorn, having a "private moment" laying her daily egg.

A "Street chicken" during the trip to China in October. I don't know why, I just thought it was fun to take a photo.




The frosted Candytuft. Low, low maintenance- haven't done a thing with it in 6 years.

Helleborus starting to push up flower buds. It's the small things that tell me life continues, and give hope for Spring.

I didn't know if the Lycoris radiata would even survive. Here are the small, striped strap-like leaves. The hard freeze didn't seem to hurt them at all. This is the first time growing this bulb, so I still don't know what to expect. They look rugged, there, still green and standing up in the frozen leaf mulch.

The pond pump is broken, so the top froze over. You can see the koi and comets swimming around under the ice.

Neck Pain / Daydreaming about garden chores

Last week I developed a neck pain, typical for disk protrusion. This is like a sensation of toothache, extending down to the right hand, and numbness in 2 fingers. It should gradually improve, I know that. Meanwhile, it is severe enough to occupy my thoughts at all moments.

Trying to daydream a bit to get my mind off from this development. Jan 1st is usually pruning day for grapes. I hope it's better by then.

Also still need to to some yard cleanup, neglected like a lot of things this year.

Basically, 2009 was not so great. The backyard orchard did fairly well, but many other aspects of the yard were neglected, and other parts of life left to languish. I hope that 2010 will be better. We can always hope. I can resolve not to keep putting off the good things in life, to take care of today's "crises" and demands, but I already know how that will go.

I got the winter onions planted 3 weeks ago. Garlic still not planted. Last week temp dropped to 12 F in the backyard - I think that's the coldest day in my yard in 10 years.

Typing is painful too, so will stop now. Need to keep thinking about new projects - ordered trees, Illinois Mulberry, Karmijn de Sonnaville apple (highly flavored Dutch variety), Belmac apple (disease resistant Mac-type apple) and maybe, if lucky, a taste of fruit from the 1-year old trees that I planted last winter.

Karmijn de Sonnaville Apple(from Raintree): This intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland measures the highest in both sugars and acids. A triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan, it is the favorite of many, however, it is so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. Put this excellent winter keeper in a box when it ripens in mid October and wait about a month for the complex mellow flavors to start shining through. A vigorous grower and somewhat scab resistant...

Belmac Apple(from Raintree): This wonderful new productive all purpose Canadian cultivar combines flavor and keeping ability with cold and disease resistance. The sweet, medium to large deep red apples ripen in late September/early October and keep three months or more. Like its parent Spartan, it has a delicious sweet/tart McIntosh flavor. It resists scab, mildew, and cedar apple rust. It thrives in eastern Canada and has also proven a winner in Western Washington.. Bred by Dr. Shahrokh Khanizadeh in Quebec and introduced in 1996.

Illinois Everbearing Mulberry (from Raintree): (Morus alba x rubra) This grafted tree is hardy to -30 deg.F. It sometimes starts producing the first year after planting and bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide that look like elongated blackberries. The fruit has a delicious distinctive flavor. The berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name. The fruit is red and turns black when ripe. Illinois Everbearing will grow to 35 feet tall but it is easily pruned and kept much smaller. Each is self-fertile.

As with the rest of the yard, These will be trained and pruned according to the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method. The apples are on super-dwarfing M27 rootstock. I haven't seen the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method applied to mulberries - in fact, I've so rarely seen mulberries, I don't quite know what to expect. But so far, the method is working out well for the other trees, so I think it should work for these as well. Plus, keeping the mulberry pruned to small size should allow for netting to prevent excessive bird-thievery.

Serious about climate change."Each snowflake in an avalanche pleads not guilty."

I can't figure out why so many people are so resistant to the idea that our climate is changing, or that it's because of human activity. Here is a quote regarding the recent summit:

"The solution to the problem is greatly retarded by the lack of scientific and technological awareness in certain societies, notably the U.S, where superstitions and political passions often trump sound reasoning," Emanuel said. "For example, we could make great strides toward energy independence and reduction of greenhouse emissions by undertaking a serious program of nuclear energy, which can easily supply our energy needs for 100 years. This, coupled with innovation in electric vehicles, would solve much of the problem."

But even if we were to stop emitting greenhouse gases all together, many of their effects would still emerge, say many scientists. And for that, adapting to such an environment is necessary. " Link here.

In a world with over 6 billion people, what can one person do? Well, in the US, were one individual contributes far more to climate change that an individual in a poorer country, what one person does is more significant. In addition, we contribute to climate change in other countries by buying goods that are imported here - our purchase of a Chinese good contributes to the Chinese CO2 emission.

I haven't been able to bike commute for quite some time, due to work demands. I continue to think about it, but I have to be realistic. I do drive a reasonably fuel efficent car, and quit driving the pickup to work. Being vegetarian significantly reduces the carbon load. We also grow significant amounts of food in the yard, reducing cost of transportation and commercial agriculture. We keep the thermostat at 55 night and 60 daytime, in the winter. That's too cold for me when doing homework, but now having a home office, I use a portable heater that just warms that room, when I'm in the room.

I'll have to work on other ways to reduce carbon footprint. I think we produce less than most equivalent-size households, but there remains a lot of room for improvement. To be honest, with individual and cultural ignorance, political opportunism, religious demagoguery, narcissim, "me first", "It's my right to have as many babies as I want" at play, I have doubt that we'll make a difference.

Then there is the other aspect - how to adapt to a warmer world? I think that means learning to experiment with what grows, and how to grow things differently. Naturally, that will mean much bigger issues with commercial agriculture than with the individual gardener and homeowner. As long as we remain flexible, know to mulch for better water retention in summer & cooler soil, keep organic matter high in the soil for the same reasons, experiment with varieties, we'll be doing the best that we can.

Current Conditions.

Tonight it's going to be in the mid 20s. BRrrr.

Not much going on in the yard. Last weekend I planted winter onions - very belated. I don't know if they will survive or grow. Still have some in storage, too. Now they'll probably wait for spring, although if there is a warm snap I might plant them. Chickens still laying one egg each, daily. I changed their fluorescent bulb to an incandescant, for more heat. We're still eating apples, none have spoiled. I like the Jonagold better than Liberty, and the unnamed heirloom graft better than either.

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More schlumbergera

Another Schlumbergera in full bloom. They all did great this year, some are starting to fade but have a second set of buds. I like the 2nd bloom better than the first, because it's less prolific and the individual flowers show better.

Another Orchid

This one is a paphiopedilum (Lady Slipper) hybrid. It's not labeled, but looking at internet photos appears to be Paphiopedilum 'Copper Glow' as pictured here. Here's another one that looks similar, called "the Queen". No way to know for certain. The word to keep in mind is "Paphiopedilum Maudiae hybrids"

According to this site, this mottled-leaf Paphiopedilum should have a night temperature not below 60 degrees F. (preferably 65 degrees F.), and a day temperature of 75-85 degrees F; constantly moist or damp, but not soggy; bright window but protect from mid-day sun.

I think I can manage those conditions, although our house is a bit cooler day and night in the winter.

It's all a gamble. Still, I could be spending money on... gambling? Booze? Furthering my education? I'll gamble a bit on gardening for a while instead.

Schlumbergera

Several are in full bloom now. Schlumbergera = "Holiday cactus" = "Thanksgiving cactus" = "Zygocactus" = sometimes, incorrectly, Xmas cactus

Salmon, cutting-grown 4 years old. Summered outdoors, North side of house.

3 years old pink. Summered same as the others.

Lost in Translation: Chinese signs

Some signs from my October trip to China. I think anyone would find these signs funny. To be fair, how many signs in the US are translated into Chinese? We get protests if signs are bilingual, with Spanish. So these signs acknowledge and welcome the foreign tourists. But they're still funny.

Protect the ecological environment. Advocate the new civilization.

Be careful off the grass.

The food signs were especially interesting. These were in a Buddhist all-vegetarian restaurant. In any other restaurant, "vegeterain" includes real pork, chicken, sausage, ham. In this restaurant, simulated 'meats' are all-vegetarian.

My favorite. The actual translation is "mouth watering duck."

"Fresh greens"

I don't know what this is supposed to translate to.

The Peach in Winter: Leaf Curl Prevention

This year's experiment with leaf curl prevention was so wildly successful, I didn't want to miss the opportunity to repeat it. So last weekend I did. Even if I don't get into the garden again for a month, I've done the most productive task.

I did the following:

1. Strip off remaining leaves. That's easy and fairly quick on these genetic dwarf peach varieties. They are compact, and the leaves come off easily. I strip off the leaves so that all of the spray goes on the stems, and so that they don't interfere with bundling the branches.

2. Rake up all debris, leaves, and weeds, under the trees.

3. Spray with copper spray. Copper is considered "organic" because it's a mineral. The concern is to over-do it, and have too much copper in the soil. So I was careful not to over-do it.

4. Bundle the branches into compact packages that would be easy to cover with white plastic garbage bags. I chose white plastic because it is somewhat reflective, to keep the branches from overheating.

5. Cover the bundled branches with the plastic bags.

6. Tie the bags into place.

7. Prune off any little branches that did not fit into this scheme.

My worries last year were that this process would damage the trees. It did not - this year I had the best peach crop ever, with only about 10 leaves impacted by leaf curl disease. Click on the labels to see the devastating effects of that infection. It's the reason people keep telling me "you can't grow peaches here"


I also sprayed the Moorman apricot and the potted dwarf apricot, that I will move into better shelter soon. I don't know if that will help - apricots tend to die quickly here, and I have not figured out why, yet.

Orchid experiment

With so many orchids available, I've been tempted into buying some. Over the past few months, I've added several. The flowers last weeks, even months, so if they don't re-bloom, it's not a total loss. Still, I hope they do, and they were one of the reasons for adding the West window to my home office. I have a lot of learning to do about growing orchids. Most do not like wet medium, grow best in bark-based substrates, like cool nights and warm, not hot, days. The light requirements also vary by genus and species. Apparently, modern hybrids are more flexible than species, but who knows what will happen to these particular varieties?

These are all unnamed hybrids. With thousands of varieties avaiable, over 20,000 species, I'll probably never know the variety names. I've been reading about the evolutionary adaptations of orchids. About 1/3 of the species have deceptive anatomy, color, or scent, to fool insects into pollenating them. Unlike the relationship between fruit trees and bees, or many other flowers and pollenating insects, the orchid provides no nectar or nutrition. Just a 'thrill' to the male insects that are convinced that the orchid flower is a female. Many of the adaptations are specific to one insect species. For some, it's wasps, for some, hornets, for some, bees, for some, moths, for some, beetles. Amazing.


Oncidium hybrid

Phaelenopsis hybrid

Oncidium hybrid

West window garden. The upper shelves are great for the Shlumbergera.

South window garden. I think that the white flower is a Dendrobium intergeneric hybrid, but I'm not certain. Pacific northwest winters are so gloomy, I don't think there is much risk of leaf sunburn.

Better pics of home office / solarium / guest room

I "shoulda" taken some "before" pics. This project is done. Might add a mirror to the bare wall to further brighten the room. By creating a dedicated home office, now I hope "not-to" spend time looking for cell phone, ipod, keys, glasses, ID/office key, because they now have a home. I will endeavor not to let it become cluttered. That way I can find what needs to be found. Desktop computer still needs to be moved.




I refinished the old table about 30 years ago. I've spent many years studying at this table - makes me feel at home. It belonged to my great aunt, and her parents, so is about 100 years old. Not a valid antique because I refinished it, but it's usable and has beautiful oak grain.

The plant stand and coffee table are glass top. Intentional - clean with some windex, no effort. The sofa folds out, in case there are guests. Now I have a bright, cheerful, comfortable, oganized place for the long hours of homework, as well as a guest bedroom and a place for my indoor garden. Cool!



The west window is shaded by a deciduous tree. Lack of leaves lets in more light in winter. Leaves keep it cool in summer. Perfect place for my orchid "experiment" and epiphytic cacti.