Raised Beds. Renovated One and Added a New One. Multiplier Onions.

Kitchen garden, from the west

 I cleaned up one raised bed.  There were some plant starts I no longer wanted.  I saved the row of Egyptian Walking Onions to clean up, divide, and replant.  I planted some at the same time last year with good result.  The cleaned up bed will be Ning's Chinese Cabbage bed.

Egyptian Walking Onions, before planting

Egyptian Walking Onions, cleaned and arranged

 After carefully digging out the onion bulbs here is what remains.  It's enough for about 50 starts.

Egyptian Walking Onions Large plants in place, now for the sets.

I cleaned them up, cut off the tops, split apart the topsets, and planted into rows.  They are about 4 inches apart.  We'll pull out every-other-one for scallions, leaving them a reasonable 8 inches apart.

Now they are planted and watered in.

This raised bed is another "molehill gardening" bed.  All of the added topsoil originates as mole hills.  I go around the yard with the wheelbarrow and a shovel, removing the mole hills.  I keep them in a pile and when constructing a new bed, that is the source of topsoil.  I mix with about 30% compost.  The compost is "yard waste" compost from H&H recycling.  I'm suspicious, some of that yard waste is really demolition waste - they grind up old wooden waste - but I think that's OK.

The molehills are finely ground, light, no clods, no stones, no plant matter.  Since they originate fairly deep, using them brings minerals back to the surface level.  They are very easy to remove and haul to the garden.   I'm not worried about the lawn sinking - stomping down the molehills would not help with that anyway.  

Sourwood Tree profile. Oxydendrum arboreum.

I noted in previous post, I bought a fair sized specimen Sourwood tree.  Oxydendrum arboreum.

Sourwoods are native to the Southeastern united states.  They are relatively undomesticated.  In other words, there are few cultivars.  This specimen was labeled, just, "Sourwood Tree".

According to Portland nursery, in this area, the tree is upright, slow growing, with a rounded top appearance.   They grow 25 to 30 feet tall, but in their native habitat grow much taller, 100 feet.  They like an acidic, peaty soil, and should be mulched without much plant competition under the tree.

Portland nursery states when planted in lawns, the tree does not thrive. Since I won't have grass growing up to the trunk, and will keep it mulched and add compost, I hope it will do better.

According to http://forestry.about.com/od/silviculture/p/sourwood.htm, sourwoods tolerate clay soil, and loam, sand, acidic soils.  My soil is a clay soil, somewhat acidic.  Also stated there "Reportedly not highly drought tolerant, but there are beautiful specimens in USDA hardiness zone 7 growing in the open sun in poor clay with no irrigation."

 Pic from wikimedia commons .  Sourwood trees make a great varietal honey.   I will have a beehive near this tree, so maybe there will be a small amount of sourwood honey flavor in the honey. At least, it should feed the honeybees.  Along with the lindens I planted, and the fruit trees, and the herbs and flowers.

Yesterday I raked back the straw mulch, and added a few inches of compost to enrich the soil and feed the tree.

I hope it grows.

Planning for a less energetic tomorrow.

I have much less energy than a year ago.  i don't know how far or fast I will decline.  But I want to continue gardening.  That means planning ahead.  What will I do?

- Get the tree planting done now.  It almost is done - a few minor additions, but the orchard is a complete as it needs to be.  Other trees are just icing on the cake.

- Keep the trees well watered this year.  Water deep and with decreasing frequency, for deep rooting.  Mulch with compost, to make the ground more spongy.  Cover that with straw mulch - cheap, biodegradable, keep the ground moist, keep the weeds down.

- Change the circles around trees, into contiguous rows of trees, for easier mowing.

- The raised beds are almost all done.  Three more.  It takes weeks to build one now, that I put together in a day before.  But once done, they are so much easier to manage, compared to in-ground garden rows.  No tilling.  Weeds easy to pull.  Few weeds - grass doesn't enter from the sides.  Just replenish the compost every year or two.  The higher level is much easier to plant, weed, and pull, compared to ground level.

- Continue to convert to dry tolerant plants and trees.  Watering doesn't just take water, it takes time and is tiring.

- I may need to install soaker hoses or other type of sprinkler in the raised beds, so I don't have to haul around a hose.  Not sure about that yet.

- The tree cages - keep out deer - only need to be built once.  A few more are needed, then they are done.  Mulch keeps weeds under control, nicely, in those cages.




-

Fruit Tree Order for Spring 2014

From Raintree Nursery.  I've made a habit of ordering way ahead.  Not wanting many additions this time.  Each has a specific reason -


Jujube Sugar Cane.  According to the web page very sweet but very thorny.  Raintree states they send 3 to 5 foot trees.  The trees I One Green World sent last year were 1 foot trees - pretty lame.  They survived and grew, and are now whopping 18 inch to 2 foot trees.  Look out Sequoias, your record is about to be broken!  So I want to jump start a little and add a taller one.  Different variety for novelty sake.  It's not clear if they need pollenizers.  According to CFRG, jujubes don't require cross pollenation, but according to Raintree they do.  CFRG states:  "Small to medium fruit which can be round to elongated. Extremely sweet fruit but on a very spiny plant. The fruit is worth the spines!".  Maybe the spines will frustrate marauding deer, or at least annoy them.  Pic is from Raintree site at link above


Q-1-8 Peach.  I researched many websites for a late blooming, peach leaf curl resistant variety.  I'm not sure about the late-blooming aspect, but Q-1-8 is described by most as quite leaf curl resistant.  Since I have 2 yellow-flesh varieties, this white-flesh variety will be a novelty.  It takes a few years to start bearing,  and I want to see if I can get enough peaches for a pie, from any variety.  Pic is from Raintree site at link above.  Kind of a cute name for a peach.  Rolls off the tongue....  but if it bears OK, resists peach leaf curl, and tastes good, that's all I need.

PrairieFire Crabapple.  To feed honeybees and provide pollen for other apple varieties.  DEscribed by Raintree as "A disease resistant, upright crabapple to 20' with reddish bronze leaves, pink flowers, and bright red 1/2' fruit loved by birds.".   WSU Extension states "Very resistant to apple scab, cedar-apple rust, fireblight and mildew."  Pics are from WSU Extension.  This might be the one I saw at Home Depot on sale, but that was similar size and I like the idea of buying from Raintree.  Raintree states they sell 4 to 6 foot trees.  If it was 6 foot it would be awesome.    Many of my spring blooming trees have white flowers, so one with pink or red would be a nice addition.

Bearded Irises. Progress report.Iris bed #2

Bearded Iris bed #2

Bearded Iris "Alcazar" 1910

 I did some minor puttering in the bearded iris beds.  Bed #1, the first historic iris bed, is too cluttered.  As we move into fall, I want to remove some extras.  Buddleia grew like crazy.  Oregano is too big for the irises.  The iris seedlings need to move too.  Too crowded.  I need a place for them.

Bearded Iris bed #2, also heritage irises, with a couple of exceptions.  Marigolds and sweet alyssum grew larger than I expected, very nice but too much crowding.  Still it will be ok to wait for frost when these annuals die off.

I did add some "step-over" plants.  Hoping they stay small.  A Sempervivum, alpine geranium, and a couple of others. 

Bearded Iris "Owyhee Desert" 1997

Bearded Iris "Romeo" 1912

 The iris starts are sending out new sprouts, and the original leaves are growing larger.  They are settling in.

Alcazar was via Heritage Iris Preservation Society.  From the separate, historic iris blog - "Color effect light hortense violet, velvety pansy-violet bicolor viened on bronze haft; size large; form long; open, oblong ; flowering habit free ; tall bearded class ; height 32 inches ; branching wide at center or above ; A flower of extra substance ; firm texture ; slightly crêped surface ; good fragrance ; An outstanding specimen plant, with very large well balanced flowers and excellent foliage."  I like that description, "hortense violet".

I suspect "Romeo" is mislabeled.  The prior blossom did not look like the web identification for this variety.  It bloomed in the winter.  It is about to bloom again.  Why is this a fall blooming variety?  Strange.


"Los Angeles" is in a shadier spot.  Not good for new iris starts, but it is what is. 

I'm continuing to clean up bearded iris bed #3.  That is mostly new varieties, some were established clumps moved from the Vancouver yard.  Some exceptions.  A few unrelated plants need to be moved from that bed as well.

Bearded Iris :Los Angeles" 1927