Making New Shed Doors. 10.11.2020

 This shed was on the verge of demolition.  However, it's quite close to my garden and orchard.  It would be nice to store tools in it.  I would spend a lot less time and effort carrying tools across the road from the house.  That would make gardening more pleasant.  We already store straw and some kindling in it.  The door is huge, and very heavy.  It pulled the hinge screws out of the frame.  The door itself is 4 feet wide, 6 feet tall, and has its own frame made from 2 X 4s.  

I think that a scraping and repainting would preserve the shed for another several years, if not a decade.  It needs a new plywood floor.  I can do that.  The inside framing seems fine.  The siding is T1-11, which is bad, but it's a shed, not a house.  I can clean up or replace bad pieces, seal and paint them to last a few more years.

The main problem is that door. It's incredibly heavy, and re-installing it was a temporary measure.  It just pulled the screws out of the frame again.  I decided to make a new one but make two doors, half the width, and without that 2 X 4 framing.  So they will probably weigh about 1/3 to 1/4 as much.  I found a 4 X 8 foot sheet of siding, stored in another shed.  I cut it down to 4 X 6 foot , then cut that into two 2 X 6 foot sheets.  I bought some 1 X 4 boards from Lowes during my last trip there, to cut for framing / trim.

I've been kind of dreading doing this.  It's too many infrastructure projects this year.  However, once starting, it has gone quite fast and not really difficult.  The worst part was moving the big sheet of siding, and cutting it.

Here are the sheets of siding, with the cut 1 X  4 boards arranged like I wanted them.  I used these to add some strength, and help flatten the siding which had a slight, subtle warp.

I numbered the boards and their locations so I wouldn't mess them up when they are glued and screwed together.  One door got numbers, the other got letters.

I used outdoor grade wood glue, and drywall screws.  I screwed them through the back so they would be tight and make a good glue-bond and not show or be exposed to the elements.  Then I used outdoor, paintable caulk to seal all of the nooks and crannies and edges so water wont soak in.

This morning I painted the doors with some left over house paint.  I think there is enough for a second coat, plus paint the entire shed.  Then it will match the house.  It's a darker grey than it looks in the photo.

 

 

Next I need a good dry day to repair and paint the siding above the door, install the new framing, and install the doors.  That will be a good start at having a usable garden shed.

 

Here is the shed as it stands now.   It looks decrepit and shabby.  I think putting on new trim, scraping, applying new paint, and installing the new doors will help a lot.  As it is now, I just lean the old door against it's opening, which is unsafe and looks like something out of Fargo.

Raised Beds - Earlier, Warmer, Easier. Progress Report. 3.4.16

 I completed the newest raised beds.  There are now four.  They are build largely from recycled narrow cement blocks from the old place, used there for a variety of purposes.  I needed some to complete the last two beds.  The blocks are 99 cents each at Home Depot.  Each bed requires 21 blocks, plus one half-block and some bricks due to dimensions that don't match because of shape.

All of my raised beds are built on a chicken wire fencing base, to prevent moles from tunneling up into the beds.

Dimensions are roughly 4 feet by 4 feet by 18 inches high.

The capstones are all re-used from a patio.  They are cobblestone pavers.

Recycled Concrete Block Raised Beds.  3.4.16

I measured the soil temperatures this week.  The base soil was 60F.  In the lower, wooden raised beds, the soil was 62F.  In the concrete raised beds, the soil was 65F.  This time of year, the warmer soil is an advantage.  Mulch may be needed later, to reflect heat.

The pavers add a little height.  My theory is the concrete blocks absorb heat, even though color is not dark, and transmit that heat to the air spaces.  The air is warmed, and the pavers hold the warm air in place.  During the summer, pavers could be removed to allow excape of the warm air, if I think that is an issue.

For senior access and gardening comfort / accessibility, these concrete block raised beds seem ideal.  They are a good sitting height.  The blocks make it possible to sit on the edge of the bed and work soil with hand tools.  They are nearer to visual comfort height, which makes planting seeds and weeding easier.

I planted seeds from old packets, radishes, scorzina, spring greens.  One bed has some overflow scallions, perennial onions.  I want to grow flowers in one bed when / if the spring vegetables and greens are finished.

I also have smaller raised beds - these fall between raised bed and container.  They are made from re-used concrete tree rings, stacked to fit together. 

In this case, the container / bed contains hyacinths - planted deep - and daylilies, planted above the hyacinths.    I have grown other plants in this system - potatoes, perennial onions, annuals.  The height and size is very convenient.  There is no bottom, but I lay down a base of chicken wire fencing to prevent mole infestation and disruption.

Concrete Tree Ring Raised Planter for Daylilies. 9.18.15

 This is the "Tree Ring" planter I put together over the past couple of weeks for some daylilies.  This is a spot that I often drag the garden hose across, damaging plants.  The planter will stop the hose from causing damage.  The planter is raised, which is nice for an old guy  to weed and trim the plants.  About the same size as a half wine barrel.  Especially since I had them sitting around.  This is between a container and a raised bed, in concept.

I leveled the ground for the base.  Arrange first ring, right side up.  Arrange second ring upside down, so the scalloped edges mesh.   Arrange the top level right side up again.

I mixed together yard soil with about 1/4 kitchen compost.  The yard soil is mole hills that I collected in the wheelbarrow.  The soil is finely ground, and taken from deep under my yard.  My soil tests low in magnesium and calcium, so I added about 1/4 cup of lime and 1/8 cup of Epsom salts.  Not rocket science, did not use a measuring cup.  I saved some coffee grounds, added about 4 cups of those for ongoing organic matter and nitrogen.

The daylilies were from other parts of the border where they were difficult to see and difficult to weed.  I wanted one bigger one - the maroon, almost coffee-brown one with darker eye, no name other than "Vigaro" from Home Depot.   The other two were incorrectly labeled or mutant, a very compact, very light yellow and taller, finer sort of apricot pink.  All of these will be easier to view and enjoy at this higher level, about 18 inches higher than the garden border.

I filled soil to the point where I could set in the daylily clumps on the soil.  Between the daylilies, I set hyacinth bulbs and pushed into the soil slightly  Those will have roots deeper than the daylilies.

Then I filled in the rest of the soil, watered in, and mulched with chipped tree trimmings.  Almost no transplanting trauma to the daylilies,  I imagine they will need dividing in one or two years.  No problem.

I saw some of these tree ring sections on the web for about $4.00 each.  That would make it $36.00 if I bought them new, roughly the same as a half wine barrel.  I think I bought them on sale a few years ago for about half that.  They should lase a lifetime.  A half wine barrel seems to last about 10 years in this rainy Pacific NW climate.  Compared to a wine barrel, the rings are easier to carry, can just carry one at a time.  I don't know about insulating properties.  Might not be as good as wood.

Acccessible Gardening

I've been reading several books and articles about accessible gardening.  By accessible, I mean for the senior gardener, or someone with decreased energy, strength, coordination, stamina.  I need to consider the strength and stamina issues, especially.  Concepts I've taken to heart, some as I recall from reading, others from concepts of home orchard gardening and my thoughts.

Raised beds.  Easier in every way.  They don't need digging. Weeds don't invade nearly as fast.  Weeds are also easy to remove.  They don't need much cultivation.  For any needed chores, the higher level is easier to work.  Lining the bottom with hardware cloth might help with mole prevention.  Lining the inside with plastic might help them last longer.

Containers.  Similar to raised beds.  They can be moved to better locations when needed.  For overwintering, it's easier to move the container, than to dig up the plants.  They do need more attention for watering.  Wood is better than plastic.  Wood insulates, so less watering is needed.  Line wooden containers with plastic liners so they don't deteriorate as fast.  With holes in the bottom for drainage.

Pruning.  Prune fruit trees back for more compact size.  Keep branching lower.  It's not much effort to prune when the trees are small.  Lower more compact branching means fruit is easier to harvest, and later pruning will also be easier.  Other training is also helpful.  For example, I bend some tall growing branches to lower position, and tie to fencing or post, for more accessible flowers, fruit, and pruning.  After a year in the bent position, the tie can be removed.

Mulch.  The wider area mulched, the less mowing and weeding.  I saved paper food containers - pizza boxes, cereal boxes, cardboard - which I used as a bottom layer, then covered with either straw or grass clippings.  The grass clippings break down faster and provide nutrients in the winter for next Spring.  The straw lasts about one season.  Either is much less effort and cost than bark mulch.  More easily available.   When weeds come up through straw mulch, I can bend them over and bury with more straw.  Much easier than digging them up.  Mulch really does keep the ground softer, so weeds are easier to pull.

Seating.  I keep a place to sit and rest.  I have a bench in the raised bed area.  I need to add something in the little orchard, in the shade. 

Edging.  Keeps weeds away from trees or shrubs or borders.  I don't know if this is better than just mulching.

Tools.  I keep in mind which tools are easier to use.   Some for prying out weeds by the roots, are better than a hoe.  A garden fork is sometimes easier than a hoe or shovel.   String trimmer makes fast work of weeds at edges.  Electric is lighter than gas.  I exercise care not to damage shrub twigs or tree bark.  Hardware cloth, used to make sleeve to protect tree bark from animal chewing, can also protect from the string trimmer.  If the hardware cloth sleeve is very loose, it can be left on the trunk for several years.  By using zip ties to fasten the hardware cloth in a ring, it's easy to put together, and easy to cut and take apart when the time comes.

Geometry.  Still working on this.  Rectangular shapes for tree mulch and raised beds, is much easier than circles.  It's easier to mow a straight line, than a circle.  I may wind up extending the mulch areas so they connect the trees in rows, and I can mow the long rows without backing up to mow between trees within rows.  The vegetable raised beds are already in rank and file arrangement, easy to mow and work between them. 

Plant choices.  I need to avoid some high maintenance choices.  Invasive varieties need to be avoided.  I have a spearmint that should be removed completely - too rampant.   It's difficult to pull out.  Bad choice on my part.  It does smell very good.  I might keep some for tisanes.  It will need edging or limitation by mowing.  Other choice is plant size.  In some cases, buying a larger plant may mean less nurturing in the long run, compared to a larger plant.   Plants that need too much effort for deer / rabbit / vole protection, should not be planted.  Unless I have a good reason, like I love my figs and plums. 

Planning for a less energetic tomorrow.

I have much less energy than a year ago.  i don't know how far or fast I will decline.  But I want to continue gardening.  That means planning ahead.  What will I do?

- Get the tree planting done now.  It almost is done - a few minor additions, but the orchard is a complete as it needs to be.  Other trees are just icing on the cake.

- Keep the trees well watered this year.  Water deep and with decreasing frequency, for deep rooting.  Mulch with compost, to make the ground more spongy.  Cover that with straw mulch - cheap, biodegradable, keep the ground moist, keep the weeds down.

- Change the circles around trees, into contiguous rows of trees, for easier mowing.

- The raised beds are almost all done.  Three more.  It takes weeks to build one now, that I put together in a day before.  But once done, they are so much easier to manage, compared to in-ground garden rows.  No tilling.  Weeds easy to pull.  Few weeds - grass doesn't enter from the sides.  Just replenish the compost every year or two.  The higher level is much easier to plant, weed, and pull, compared to ground level.

- Continue to convert to dry tolerant plants and trees.  Watering doesn't just take water, it takes time and is tiring.

- I may need to install soaker hoses or other type of sprinkler in the raised beds, so I don't have to haul around a hose.  Not sure about that yet.

- The tree cages - keep out deer - only need to be built once.  A few more are needed, then they are done.  Mulch keeps weeds under control, nicely, in those cages.




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