The start of fall color. Sourwood and Buffalo Grape.

Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum)

 The first of fall color at the Battleground place.  Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum).  This may be partly the effect of being a new planting.  But sourwood trees are known for red fall color.   It's the reddest tree so far.  Probably the reddest of my fall trees.

Others here that that may have good fall color - the ginkgo trees (brilliant yellow) Blueberry plants (red), and persimmons (expecting red or yellow).  I don't know about the others.

Buffalo Grape

Buffalo Grape

This is the only grape vine that I've seen with such brilliant color.  This is "Buffalo", a blue Concord-like seeded grape.  It grew faster than any of my new varieties.  I think I bought this one at Fred Meyer this Spring.  I doubt there will be grapes next year, but it's now big enough, next Spring/Summer I can train the cordons for grapes the following year.

The newest leaves are not colorful.  At least not yet.  I'm hoping the colorful leaves will be typical next fall, and not the green leaves.

Still in a deer and rabbit cage.  More screening  to install this fall ' winter.

Sourwood Tree profile. Oxydendrum arboreum.

I noted in previous post, I bought a fair sized specimen Sourwood tree.  Oxydendrum arboreum.

Sourwoods are native to the Southeastern united states.  They are relatively undomesticated.  In other words, there are few cultivars.  This specimen was labeled, just, "Sourwood Tree".

According to Portland nursery, in this area, the tree is upright, slow growing, with a rounded top appearance.   They grow 25 to 30 feet tall, but in their native habitat grow much taller, 100 feet.  They like an acidic, peaty soil, and should be mulched without much plant competition under the tree.

Portland nursery states when planted in lawns, the tree does not thrive. Since I won't have grass growing up to the trunk, and will keep it mulched and add compost, I hope it will do better.

According to http://forestry.about.com/od/silviculture/p/sourwood.htm, sourwoods tolerate clay soil, and loam, sand, acidic soils.  My soil is a clay soil, somewhat acidic.  Also stated there "Reportedly not highly drought tolerant, but there are beautiful specimens in USDA hardiness zone 7 growing in the open sun in poor clay with no irrigation."

 Pic from wikimedia commons .  Sourwood trees make a great varietal honey.   I will have a beehive near this tree, so maybe there will be a small amount of sourwood honey flavor in the honey. At least, it should feed the honeybees.  Along with the lindens I planted, and the fruit trees, and the herbs and flowers.

Yesterday I raked back the straw mulch, and added a few inches of compost to enrich the soil and feed the tree.

I hope it grows.

Planting a Sourwood Tree

Out of the nursery pot, showing root ball

 Here is the sourwood tree I bought.

When I bought it at the nursery, I thought these trees had been sitting in the containers for the season.  Taking out of the pot, I see that's not true.  They were dug up from the nursery row, balled and burlapped, and transported to the nursery.  There, compost soil was placed in the container, the tree added, then more compost.  So they looked like the root mass was much bigger than it was.

That makes me think it will be harder to establish.  The tree is quite large for its root ball.

Planting.  Daffodil bulbs surrounding the tree.

Soaking in.

 Planting the tree - I surrounded it with mixed varieties of daffodil bulbs.  During the summer this tree should be mulched, with no competing plants.  However, daffodils grow their roots in the fall and winter, and the tops during rainy season.  I don't think they will be much competition for the tree roots.

Daffodils are reportedly deer and rabbit resistant, so I'm hoping they will have a bit of a protective benefit for the tree.

Planted and mulched.

Planted, watered in, and mulched.

I hope it grows.

We are heading into the rainy season.  That should help this nice tree establish roots and settle in.

New Trees. Madrone and Sourwood.

Madrone Arbutus menziesii

 Yesterday I bought 2 trees.  Each has a commemorative purpose, and each may be a challenge.

The first is a Pacific Madrone . Arbutus menziesii.  Native to Pacific coastal areas, including Pacific Northwest.  I don't see them very often.  They have a Dr. Seuss appearance.  I like the peeling bark, sort of like a Sycamore.  According to most web sites, Madrones can be very difficult to establish.  The reason I'm hopeful for this one is I am thinking it's been in the container for a season and so has some fine roots.  I could be wrong.

I also read that Madrones depend on mycorrhizal fungi.  So I will transfer some soil from other trees, if I don't have any innoculant on hand.  Which I might

I started to regret buying the Madrone, after reading how hard they can be to establish.  But if it grows, it will be a conversation piece and something to be proud of.

I read that Madrones are good bee forage. 

This should be a good time to plant.  Start of rainy season and cooler weather.

Sourwood Oxydendrum arboreum

The second is a Sourwood.  Not native here.  They originate in the US Southeast.  Oxydendrum arboreum is a fairly cmall growing tree, with clusters of flowers that look like Lily of the Valley.  The nectar is considered one of the best for fine honey production, at least in the Southeast.  This tree also may be hard to establish - reportedly likes a soil with a lot of humus, and always moist.  Does not like competition - prefers a well mulched surround.   Sourwoods are described as having brilliant red fall foliage.

So we'll see.  So far I've had good successes.  These sound more challenging.  Other tree species that are said to be difficult to starts, that I managed to establish, so far, include pawpaw and persimmon.  The pawpaws are in their second summer, and the persimmons are finishing their first.

I might have to ask Ning to dig the holes and help me move them.  I tire too easily.  But these will give me something to ponder so are worth the effort.