I have 'pinched' all of the new growth at 3 to 5 nodes. Some area already producing embryonic main crop at the nodes.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Kitchen Garden. A mess but there is hope.
I have 'pinched' all of the new growth at 3 to 5 nodes. Some area already producing embryonic main crop at the nodes.
Labels:
fig,
kitchen garden,
lettuce,
mulberry,
peach,
peach leaf curl,
pepper,
tomato
Orchid starts & progress. Oncidium and Vappodes phalaenopsis (Cooktown Orchid)

I've been wanting to write up on Dendrobium bigibbum, except it's now called Vappodes phalaenopsis. My friend gave me a start from her plant, so I don't have photos of the blooming plant. I identified it from web pictures, which look exactly like her plant.
(This drawing from wikimedia commons under Dendrobium bigibbum. Illustrator is Vera Scarth Johnson)

Lindenia Iconographie des Orchidées 1892 I edited the pic with a little color enhancement and cropped a little. Given over a century of fading, this editing may have brought the drawing back toward its original color.

Dendrobium bigibbum is also called "the Cooktown orchid" and originates in NE Australia. Let's make it really confusing. D. biggibum was conflated with Dendrobium phalaenopsis, which has flowers somewhat similar to Phalaenopsis but is really distant from that genus. Since then this species has been renamed Vappodes phalaenopsis. So I shouldn't call it dendrobium after all, but that still appears to be the commonly known name. Unless you just call it "Cooktown Orchid." Per Wikipedia, "It lives in a wide variety of habitats ranging from coastal scrub on trees and rocks, to mangroves, riverine vegetation, rainforest, vine thickets, gullies in open forest and even swamps. It used to be prolific around Cooktown but is now rare in the wild, due to over-collecting by commercial collectors."
It's hard to find specific culture information - from the Cooktown orchids website, are a couple of items - "where they grow naturally they have monsoon downpours in the summer and can have no rain at all for 2 - 3 months in the winter." and "fertilise weekly and weakly (1 gram/litre) in the growing season, September to December [in Australia - so here probably March to June?], with a low level nitrogen fertiliser... change to higher level phosphorous and potassium fertiliser... in flowering season, January [in Australia] till the flowers drop. The plants make new growths, flower from those growths and set seedpods between September to April [in Australia] so frequent feeding is almost mandatory for best results."
This is the Oncidium that got it all started for me. No ID, my wild guess is "Gower Ramsey" but that may change if I can get a picture showing the pseudobulbs. I'm hoping a current tiny bud at the base of the newest pseudobulb on the original plant is a bloom spike. However, the last "bloom spike" turned out to be a new growth instead, which matured into a nice plump pseudobulb.
This may be due to my enhanced interest in orchids. It seemed to bloom fine with neglect, but now it's getting water and is in a brighter window, and getting weekly/weakly plant food, and the resultant pseudobulbs and leaves are shiny and lush. Maybe it needs neglect in order to bloom. We'll see.
OK, so this is the first of the starts to take off and grow. I've blogged on these Oncidium backbulbs before. They continue to grow, and are all producing lots of aerial roots that then find their way into the medium and become nonaerial roots, just like the parent plant. I think now they have progressed beyond being called "backbulb" and can now be considered actual orchid plants. If the parent plant blooms, then these might bloom in a year or two.
Here are the 2 smaller ones. One is in a clear plastic pot, so I can see roots as they develop. The other is in a clay pot. I can compare notes on how they grow in the 2 pot types. The plant in plastic is smaller but started much later as well.
Not pictured here are some "sort-of starts" of Cattleya. One is a piece of the Cattleya walkeriana alba, it has no leaves but is starting to grow a new growth. very gradual. The other is a group of 3 tiny, tiny plants that came with Jewelbox orange. When that plant arrived, I repotted it. There were 3 pieces that must have been in the same community pot when it was cloned, but didn't take off and grow. Those are in a sphagnum baggie. If they grow, I'll be impressed at the plant's resilience. If not, nothing really lost.
Dendrobium nobile hybrids, continued
I think this is the limit for my hyrid Dendrobium nobile collection. They require enough window space, I need to limit them. The current conundrum is: To promote growth of new canes (pseudobulbs) that will produce next year's flowers, they should be in full sun. To lengthen the life of the current flowers, they should be out of the sun, and kept cool. So which is it, warm in the sun, or cool in the shade?
I figure, they are all about the flowers. Even if not 100% optimal for next year's flowers, I'm keeping them in a bright space but not direct sun, until the flowers are done. Then they'll gradually go into full sun. I think they'll have enough cane growth for at least a few flowers, and mine don't need to look like the lush, massive bouquets on the Yamamoto dendrobium site. Just be bright and cheerful in the gloomy late winter / early spring here in the US Pacific Northwest.
Tentatively identified as Fancy Angel "Lycee" although I can't say for certain. Two unbloomed canes are already mature and plump, so it probably won't suffer from lack of full sun while blooming. I like the appearance of the pseudobulbs, they look exotic and Dr. Seussian. That's one reason that I like to show the entire plant, it adds to the exptic appearance.
Blossom closeup. I hate to say it, but I'm less crazy about these blossoms than some of the others. Even so, with the smaller number of flowers, it's possible to concentrate on the Cattleya-like shape of the flower.
Tentatively identified as Love Memory "Fizz". Coloration is bolder and the lip marking is more prominant. I like this one a lot. It has 2 new canes that are not nearly as plump as the mature canes. It will be interesting if they plump up like the original canes. I hope so.
I'm 99% sure this is Oriental Smile "Fantasy" from Yamamoto. Nothing else looks similar. I picked it up at Trader Joe's 2 weeks ago. Potted into the standard bark/perlite/peat mix, same as the others, in the slotted container for aeration. Yamamoto states this is a later bloomer than most.
View of entire plant, Dendrobium Oriental Smile "Fantasy". Nice glowing warm coloration. It has that strange ultra-thin lower part of the cane, widening into a fatter cane above, typical for Dendrobium nobile.
New aquisition, Dendrobium Yellow Song "Canary". Mail order from Hauserman. I didn't expect for it to be in bloom. The flowers are a bit crushed, otherwise they are bright and sunny. Being without defining lip markings, I think that the flowers may benefit from thinning to set them off. We'll see if it blooms next year.
The original pot was only about 2 inches across. I didn't want to overpot, since Dendrobium nobile is known to require limitation of root space, but the original pot was so small . I went up about 2 inches in diameter. The original medium was coconut husk, so tight that I couldn't get it out without damaging the roots, so I left most of the old medium in place.
I figure, they are all about the flowers. Even if not 100% optimal for next year's flowers, I'm keeping them in a bright space but not direct sun, until the flowers are done. Then they'll gradually go into full sun. I think they'll have enough cane growth for at least a few flowers, and mine don't need to look like the lush, massive bouquets on the Yamamoto dendrobium site. Just be bright and cheerful in the gloomy late winter / early spring here in the US Pacific Northwest.
The original pot was only about 2 inches across. I didn't want to overpot, since Dendrobium nobile is known to require limitation of root space, but the original pot was so small . I went up about 2 inches in diameter. The original medium was coconut husk, so tight that I couldn't get it out without damaging the roots, so I left most of the old medium in place.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Potinara orchids, and related hybrids
I discussed Dendrobium, now something from the Cattleya alliance, Potinara. Another will be in the same shipment as Dendrobium Yellow Song Canary. The Potinara varieties seem suited for home culture, due to hybridization and small size.
Potinara is a manmade genus (nothogenus) created from several species of Cattleya-type orchids. Potinara consists of grandparents from Brassovola, Cattleya, Laelia, and Sophronitis.
It gets complicated. With genetic testing, some species have been moved to different genera, and some have been renamed. So... this is rephrased from Richard Pippen, Ph.D , Professor Emeritus, Western Michigan University, Naples, Florida
Some Brassasavola have changed. Now Brassavola digbyana is Rhyncholaelia digbyana. 19th century botanical sketch here is from Wikimedia commons. The Rhyncholaelia digbyana is a Mexican or Guatemalan species, and contributes larger, ruffled lip, and may contribute fragrance. from orchidspecies.com.
Other Brassovola parents were shuffled around, so some are now Brassocattleya or Brassocatanthe.
Rhyncholaelia provides fragrance and highly ruffled characteristics for the lip.
*Brazilian species of Laelia were merged into Cattleya.
*Sophronitis was merged into Cattleya.
This drawing is "Sophronitis crispata as Laelia flava". How's that for confusing? " Laelia flava has brightly colored yellow, star-shaped flowers. Color ranges from yellow to pale yellow. Some individuals have small red spots near the base of the petals. The lip is frilly. The flower spike reaches 25 cm above the foliage and has 4 to 8 flowers near the tip." from verdantgreenla.orgI think these would contribute warm colors, yellow, orange, or red, and multiple flowers.
*Cattleya auriantica, C. bowringiana, and C. skinneri were split out of Cattleya and are in the new genus Guarianthe. This sketch os Sophronitis coccinea as Sophronitis grandiflora. OK. The former Sophronitis coccinia, now Cattleya coccinia comes from Brazil. Info from mirandaorchids.com. Here we find red or orange coloration, clusters of flowers.
Guarianthe skinneri as Cattleya skinneri.
So Dr. Pippen gives the example, Potinara Burana Beauty, a cross between Potinara (now Rhyncattleanthe) Netrasiri Starbright and Cattleya Netrasiri Beauty, which went from
Brassavola x Cattleya x Laelia x Sophronitis = Potinara to Rhyncholaelia x Cattleya x Guarianthe = Rhyncattleanthe (Rth.)
Not that it is going to matter to the home grower - the species have been so jumbled, traits from multiple ancestors from multiple places contribute. See original link from Manatee Orchid Society for much more mind boggling detail. Where it matters to me, is that I like to look for the ancestors and see what the original plants looked like.
These are from HausermannOrchids.com and are the others in my order.
Potinara"Cheryl Winkelman" Who knows what were the original progenitors, and with so much genetic scrambling, it may not be possible to find out. I find it compelling that the lip has a pattern similar to that seen on the Guarianthe skinneri sketch.
Sophrolaeliocattleya Jewelbox orange. Not Potinara, but with some members of the mix.
The photos don't show the entire plant, that will have to wait until I can do it myself. Assuming they survive and bloom in my hands.
Mor history of "Minicatts" here, from www.sdorchids.com.
Potinara is a manmade genus (nothogenus) created from several species of Cattleya-type orchids. Potinara consists of grandparents from Brassovola, Cattleya, Laelia, and Sophronitis.
It gets complicated. With genetic testing, some species have been moved to different genera, and some have been renamed. So... this is rephrased from Richard Pippen, Ph.D , Professor Emeritus, Western Michigan University, Naples, Florida

Other Brassovola parents were shuffled around, so some are now Brassocattleya or Brassocatanthe.
Rhyncholaelia provides fragrance and highly ruffled characteristics for the lip.

*Sophronitis was merged into Cattleya.
This drawing is "Sophronitis crispata as Laelia flava". How's that for confusing? " Laelia flava has brightly colored yellow, star-shaped flowers. Color ranges from yellow to pale yellow. Some individuals have small red spots near the base of the petals. The lip is frilly. The flower spike reaches 25 cm above the foliage and has 4 to 8 flowers near the tip." from verdantgreenla.orgI think these would contribute warm colors, yellow, orange, or red, and multiple flowers.


So Dr. Pippen gives the example, Potinara Burana Beauty, a cross between Potinara (now Rhyncattleanthe) Netrasiri Starbright and Cattleya Netrasiri Beauty, which went from
Brassavola x Cattleya x Laelia x Sophronitis = Potinara to Rhyncholaelia x Cattleya x Guarianthe = Rhyncattleanthe (Rth.)
Not that it is going to matter to the home grower - the species have been so jumbled, traits from multiple ancestors from multiple places contribute. See original link from Manatee Orchid Society for much more mind boggling detail. Where it matters to me, is that I like to look for the ancestors and see what the original plants looked like.
These are from HausermannOrchids.com and are the others in my order.


The photos don't show the entire plant, that will have to wait until I can do it myself. Assuming they survive and bloom in my hands.
Mor history of "Minicatts" here, from www.sdorchids.com.
Dendrobium nobile

Photo and information below are from Yamamotoorchid.com.





Well, better this than tiger testicles or rhino horns, or whatever.

This pic isn't that attractive. I'll have to take my own pic. Web pics may not look like what I get, because of differences in growth, lighting, and color changes in the camera, so I won't really know until (if) it blooms in my hands. Probably in about 9 months, my guess.

Sunday, May 16, 2010
Kitchen Garden Log: Barrel planters, hens, seedlings
I may hve put the peppers and eggplants out too soon. They are not looking as good as I hoped. We'll see if they perk up.
The 5 hens are producing 4 eggs daily. Someone is shirking. If I could figure out who it is, I would put her on a "Work Improvement Plan". As it is, the others seem to be covering for whoever it is. At least absenteeism is not an issue. They don't have a choice on tht. A good leader will reward them. Today I've been doing homework all day, so could not pull weeds for them, but I did put a watermelon rind through the shredder on the food processor - in seconds, a big batch of tasty morsels.
Potato barrel. My largest concern now is that I planted too many. As always, "we'll see"
Seeds planted 7 days ago, zucchini, squash, and cucumbers. I'm leaving them on the deck in the sun. It's overcast. When one set of leaves is developed, I'll plant them.
Peppers. They are sulking. Probably too cool, but with warmer weather now, maybe they'll start up again. The purple plant is basil. There are some little radish seedlings, I'm not sure how they will do. In the back, seedlings of bunching onions. I'll let them get bigger then pull them.
Kind of a mix now. Purchased eggplants, bigger. The lettudce and mesclun will be done in a week, leaving a lot more room. The heliotrope isn't planted yet, this may not be the right spot. Very fragrant. These onions will be allowed to develop tops, unless Ning pulls them. By tops, I mean these (Egyptian walking onions) develop clusters of baby onions on the top of the stalk, instead of a flower. Those are used to plant the next crop, for indefinite perpetuation of the variety. If these do get pulled, I have others in the borders that will make plenty of new sets.
Labels:
barrel planter,
chickens,
kitchen garden,
multiplier onion,
pepper
Orchids - Dendrobium nobile blooming
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Irises have started blooming.
Each one that I look at is my favorite. Then another opens and THAT one is my favorite.
Inuendo. The first that I started here, now in their 9th year. They've been divided and moved a few times, and a few keep returning to the original location.
Edith Wolford. I never like photos of this iris, but in person it's amazing.
China moon.
China moon again. Sometimes close-ups are nice, but it's also important to see them in context of the garden. I'm not crazy about all of the flower pictures that show a decapitated bloom without including the rest of the plant or surroundings.
Bumblee Delite. A small variety. Lots of grass intermingled in this one.
Each year, I think the effort isn't worthwhile. Irises are difficult to keep clean, because their roots are so shallow, and the rhizomes are at ground level. This makes them almost impossible to weed. Then when they bloom, I just feel awe. They are worth it.
I have a few that I tried to start last year, from store purchases of rhizomes. They are a long, long way from blooming size - those little dried out rhizomes take a long time to become a blooming size plant, and many die over the winter. If I can keep them going, one might bloom next year. The other will likely take 2 years.
Each year, I think the effort isn't worthwhile. Irises are difficult to keep clean, because their roots are so shallow, and the rhizomes are at ground level. This makes them almost impossible to weed. Then when they bloom, I just feel awe. They are worth it.
I have a few that I tried to start last year, from store purchases of rhizomes. They are a long, long way from blooming size - those little dried out rhizomes take a long time to become a blooming size plant, and many die over the winter. If I can keep them going, one might bloom next year. The other will likely take 2 years.
Fruit tree protection, figs, cherries, peaches, apples, pears
The figs attract ants, which enter the figs. This is a problem for two reasons. First, I suspect they carry fungus, so the figs spoil much faster. Second, they are difficult to extricate from the fig, so I have to wash them out, losing some fig flavor. The collar of tanglefoot was very effective last year, in stopping the ant problem.
Other trees, apple cherry, and pear, develop large aphid infestations. The aphids are tended by ants, so preventing ant traffic on the trees also prevents much of the aphid infestation.
Other tasks for fruits:
I also sprayed all fruit trees with neem. Some of the apples have a lead disease, causing parts of the leaves to blacken and wilt. This is worst on Golden Delicious and Jonagold. I'm hoping that the infestation will stop in the warmer drier weather - 79F today. Peaches have significant leaf curl, all of it seems to have started due to uncovering the trees when they started blooming. The chilly wet weather that followed countered some of my preventive effort, but I still think they are much better off this year than before.
The thinned fruits, peaches and apples, are enlarging quickly. Now dime sized.
I also pinched (removed terminal growth) ends of fig branches that had grown 4 to 5 new leaves. The purpose is to stimulate fig production for the fall crop (main crop), earlier, and to stimulate compact branching structure.
Brebas are falling off Hardy Chicago, but most look intact on Vancouver/Brunswick, Petite negri, Desert King, and Lattarula. The figs on Lattarula are swelling quickly, bigger than a quarter now.
Ginkgo tree
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)