No photos - raining and didn't want to damage camera.
This week I found more suckers in the lilac hedge. Dug them out for starts at the battleground place. About 18 inches to 2 foot tall.
There was a hazelnut by the house, same size range. Moved that, too.
Near the Vancouver house is a stand of Staghorn Sumac. I found 2 clumps in the 2 foot tall range and moved them.
Free plants are good. These are locally proven, locally adapted. The seedlings increase genetic diversity. They are organic. Not fuel spent going to store to buy them.
Reading about sumac, some sources state they are deer food, other state deer don't browse them. I have one sumac tree, different variety, that was partially tasted by deer, then apparently left alone.
Showing posts with label plant propagation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label plant propagation. Show all posts
Saturday, December 20, 2014
Sunday, November 09, 2014
Propagation Progress Report. Trees and Shrubs. 11.9.14
Forsythia Cutting at about 10 months. 11.9.14 |
Ginkgo biloba seedlings at about 2 years. 11.9 .14 |
Laburnum Cutting at about 2 years. 11.9.14 |
I planted one forsythia start where I dug out the laburnums. The other is shown here. I repotted with intent to give more TLC next year for faster growth.
Similar for the ginkgo seedlings. These have good root systems.
One laburnum was especially chewed up. So much for them being toxic and repelling herbivores. The other had more roots than expected for size.
Not bad for not trying all that hard. Especially the forsythias - all I did with those was stick dormant prunings into the ground, late winter.
Laburnum Cutting at about 2 years. 11.9.14 |
Repotted Plant Starts. 11.9.14 |
Labels:
forsythia,
Ginkgo biloba,
ginkgo seedling,
laburnum,
plant propagation
Saturday, January 11, 2014
Plant Propagation Day. Lilacs, Nandina, Plums, Quince, Forsythia. 1.11.14
Lilac Sucker |
Shovel Placement for Lilac Sucker |
The method with the shovel, is to stand it vertically close to the parent shrub, between the parent and the sucker. Make a rapid, firm slice into the soil. Sometimes it takes more than one try. That severs the connection, but leaves most of the sucker's roots intact.
I make the same type of slices around the sucker / baby bush, then slice under it.
Much of the root mass is probably from the old bush, and not connected to the baby bush. That root matrix hold the soil together. Removing it could damage the roots of the new bush, so I left the soil / root matrix in place. It would be nice to see how many roots the baby bush has, but not required. I'm sure there are some.
I also took prunings from Hollywood Plum, Shiro Plum, Pussy Willow - un known variety, Flowering Quince. After removing side branches, I have a bundle of each to experiment with as hardwood cuttings.
Hardwood Cuttings and Lilac Starts |
Then I wandered around the yard, looking for other starts. I found two Nandina suckers - Heavenly Bamboo. Pretty bush, bright red berries. So I removed those. Same method as lilac. The suckers did not have much by way of roots, so I pruned the tops to avoid dehydrating the plants until the roots take. Haven't done this with Nandina before.
Then planted the sucker / baby shrubs in vegetable raised bed. They will have a few months to grow more roots, before top grown begins.
I treated the hardwood cuttings in a similar manner to the fig cutting prep - make an incision in the lower end, to expose cambium. Dip in Dip-and-grow 1:5 dilution for 10 seconds. Then used trowel to make slice into soil.
Lilac Starts and Nandina Starts |
Quince Starts |
I don't know if there is even a remote chance for those plums and the quince to take root. Nothing lost if they don't.
I also took a few forsythia prunings. Those were inserted in soil without wounding or dip-and-grow. Mainly because I didn't have any dip-and-grow remaining. Should be OK. Forsythia grows easily.
The pussy willows can just be stuck into the grown about 1 foot deep. Ning did that last year when I was sick, and about 90% took root and grew. Deer then ate some. Others should take off and grow this year. We'll have a hedge of pussy willow.
Labels:
flowering quince,
heavenly bamboo,
lilac,
nandina,
plant propagation,
pussy willow
Tuesday, January 07, 2014
Taking a start from a Lilac bush. Propagating a lilac bush by removing a sucker. 1.7.14
This sprout was about one foot away from a purple flowered lilac bush. It was an offshoot from that bush. I sliced through the main stem with the shovel. Then I dug it out.
Doesn't look too promising but I've seen less promising plants grow. So maybe.
I pruned the cut, to make it smooth instead of ragged. Pruned the top back a little. It is dormant, so there are no leaves to transpire and wilt. It will make new leaves at a size it can support with the roots.
Maybe the roots will extend a little during the winter, using reserve stored carbohydrates from the stem. That's why I didn't prune it back more.
I am determined not to add odds and ends into the vegetable bed. So now I've planted the lilac start in the vegetable bed. It is not in the way. The vegetables get TLC, so the lilac will also get some TLC for the next year.
If it survives and grows, I can move it to a permanent location next year.
This is the general concept. Traditional and super simple.
Find lilac bush with suckers.
Clear away weeds or stems that might be in the way.
Use shovel to slice through underground stem connecting sucker to parent bush. I try to do this close to the parent bush. That way I get more roots on the sucker.
Dig around sucker and carefully dig it up. It may not have a lot of roots.
Re-plant the sucker - now a new start of the lilac bush - in a sheltered location so it doesn't dry out this year.
This will work for other bushes that develop suckers - figs, forsythia, quince, etc.
I think the main thing is there are already a few roots. A hardwood cutting would be almost the same but without roots. It's more difficult to get roots growing from the stem, than to promote increase of root growth that has already begun.
The drawings are mine. I am not an artist.
Doesn't look too promising but I've seen less promising plants grow. So maybe.
I pruned the cut, to make it smooth instead of ragged. Pruned the top back a little. It is dormant, so there are no leaves to transpire and wilt. It will make new leaves at a size it can support with the roots.
Maybe the roots will extend a little during the winter, using reserve stored carbohydrates from the stem. That's why I didn't prune it back more.
I am determined not to add odds and ends into the vegetable bed. So now I've planted the lilac start in the vegetable bed. It is not in the way. The vegetables get TLC, so the lilac will also get some TLC for the next year.
If it survives and grows, I can move it to a permanent location next year.
This is the general concept. Traditional and super simple.
Find lilac bush with suckers.
Clear away weeds or stems that might be in the way.
Use shovel to slice through underground stem connecting sucker to parent bush. I try to do this close to the parent bush. That way I get more roots on the sucker.
Lilac Bush with suckers |
Newly planted lilac suckers |
Re-plant the sucker - now a new start of the lilac bush - in a sheltered location so it doesn't dry out this year.
This will work for other bushes that develop suckers - figs, forsythia, quince, etc.
I think the main thing is there are already a few roots. A hardwood cutting would be almost the same but without roots. It's more difficult to get roots growing from the stem, than to promote increase of root growth that has already begun.
The drawings are mine. I am not an artist.
Labels:
lilac,
plant propagation,
shrub propagation
Sunday, May 05, 2013
Pear grafts. Progress report.
Some are growing better than others.
At the moment, all grafts are growing.
Very few incipient pears on the trees. It may take a couple of years for these to bloom. When they do bloom, the grafts should help the pollination issue. Establihsed hives may also help.
At the moment, all grafts are growing.
Very few incipient pears on the trees. It may take a couple of years for these to bloom. When they do bloom, the grafts should help the pollination issue. Establihsed hives may also help.
Labels:
Asian pear,
grafting,
plant propagation,
pollination
Sunday, January 06, 2013
Tree Protection. Chewed Bark. Hardwood Cuttings.
I don't know what chewed these fig branches. They have been on the ground for a couple of weeks. I read that figs are deer resistant. I've also read that mice or voles can chew fig bark.
I don't know if wrapping the trunk is needed or helpful. I do know that if I don't, and the bark is chewed off, I will be angry at myself for not doing it. So I did. Brunswick fig.
I also wrapped this ginkgo, 2 lindens, the mulberry, and two tart cherries. And 2 plums. The basis for wrapping, was it a tree that I've gone to some trouble to grow, would it take a long time to replace, and did I think animals might find the trunk tasty.
The bag contains hardwood cuttings from the yard in Vancouver. There is Lattarula fig (big cuttings), and most of the grape varieties. Also scion wood for pear. I read they can be stored buried in damp sawdust, damp peat moss, damp sphagnum, or in refrigerator. I don't have a big pile of sawdust or peat moss or sphagnum, and there isn't room in the fridge. The leaf pile should keep them moist, safe during freezing, and sheltered from sun. I buried them about a foot deep in the leaf pile. If they don't survive, that's OK.
I also did some shaping of one linden, aiming toward a central leader. There were 2 main leaders, neither vertical. I removed one, and tied the other as close to vertical as I could. It's supported by a bamboo post. The prunings went into a raised bed, as effortless hardwood cuttings. Maybe they'll strike, or not. Interesting if they do, no loss if they don't.
I don't know if wrapping the trunk is needed or helpful. I do know that if I don't, and the bark is chewed off, I will be angry at myself for not doing it. So I did. Brunswick fig.
I also wrapped this ginkgo, 2 lindens, the mulberry, and two tart cherries. And 2 plums. The basis for wrapping, was it a tree that I've gone to some trouble to grow, would it take a long time to replace, and did I think animals might find the trunk tasty.
The bag contains hardwood cuttings from the yard in Vancouver. There is Lattarula fig (big cuttings), and most of the grape varieties. Also scion wood for pear. I read they can be stored buried in damp sawdust, damp peat moss, damp sphagnum, or in refrigerator. I don't have a big pile of sawdust or peat moss or sphagnum, and there isn't room in the fridge. The leaf pile should keep them moist, safe during freezing, and sheltered from sun. I buried them about a foot deep in the leaf pile. If they don't survive, that's OK.
I also did some shaping of one linden, aiming toward a central leader. There were 2 main leaders, neither vertical. I removed one, and tied the other as close to vertical as I could. It's supported by a bamboo post. The prunings went into a raised bed, as effortless hardwood cuttings. Maybe they'll strike, or not. Interesting if they do, no loss if they don't.
Labels:
cuttings,
deer,
ficus carica,
fig,
fig cuttings,
figs,
hardwood cutting,
Linden,
plant propagation,
plant protection,
varmints
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