Wood Ashes / Sustainable Gardening

image via commons.wikimedia.org

One of these days I need to get the soil tested.  I could not identify a WA State agency that tests soil.  On a WSA website there is a list of private companies that test soil, but it was so complicated I gave up.


Meanwhile, I don't want to waste potential soil nutrients.  I think compost is generally well balanced, if it comes from kitchen and garden waste.  The raised beds contain a mixture of local soil - mole hills I collect from the 2 acres of lawn, finely ground by the little animals - and commercial compost by the truckload. Somewhere around 1/2 to 1/3 commercial compost.  The lower part of the raised beds is inverted sod, obtained from planting trees and shrubs around the yard; and weeds or rotting straw mulch.  I let the worms and fungi compost that in situ.

Meanwhile, on weekends we heat the house using a wood stove.  In general terms, the resultant ash consists of most of the nutrients a plant needs to make wood, at least, in concentrated form.  Oregon State University Extension site states wood ashes contain the 13 most needed minerals.  Nitrogen and sulfur are lost as gases.  With acid rain, sulfur is not usually in short supply but could be supplemented using epson salts.  Nitrogen could be supplemented using fish emulsion or, if the situation permits, fresh urine, 10:1 dilution in water. This last - saves on groundwater waste (flushing) - from this website, "Many toilets use between 50 and 100 litres of water a day to flush approximately 1.5 litres of pee. The average person has five wees a day and the average flush uses eight litres of water - that's 40 litres.".  I understand that last may be off-putting, but that's water I can use in the summer for watering vegetables trees fruits flowers shrubs; saves on groundwater and reduces salination of the drainage field and nitrogenous pollution of groundwater.

According to the OSU site, " The fertilizer value of wood ash depends on the type of wood. According to Sullivan, hardwoods produce about three times the ash and five times the nutrients per cord as softwoods. A cord of oak provides enough potassium for a garden 60 by 70 feet. A cord of Douglas fir ash supplies enough potassium for a garden 30 by 30 feet."  Areas to consider ash include  "As a general rule, acid soils that would benefit from ash application are usually found in those places in Oregon that get more than 20 inches of rain per year.  I could add to that, the effect of watering the raised beds through the summer, would also leach soluble nutrients, and nutrients are lost from the soil via vegetable harvests and plant materials that are removed.  Those plant material nutrients do get returned to the garden as compost.

According to the Ed Hume website,  Phosphorus content usually ranges between 0.8% - 3%, potassium from 2.8% - 8.6%, calcium from 14%-28%, magnesium from 0.8%-2.8% and sulfur from 0.3%-0.5%.  I imagine softwood ashes are at the low end of that, so N:P:K roughly 0:1:3 or something like that, with additional Ca and Mg.  I was thinking about adding Mg via Epsom Salts but with the firewood ash, that would not appear needed.  The Purdue website states trace minerals include " micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present."  I figure the bad ones, if present in cordwood, are everywhere else as well, so are not a concern for me.

I really should get the soil tested.  I may try this site.  Or this one - maybe better.

They also comment that " One-half to one pound of wood ash per year is recommended for each shrub and rose bush"

We use locally available wood, which is mostly softwood.  I doubt that we go through 1/4 cord in a winter.  The 30 X 30 ft calculation is 900 sq feet  My raised beds when completed will be approx. 12 X 4 X 8 = 384 sq feet.  The rest of the 2 acres is orchard, grass, and bushes and trees.    So for the raised beds, roughly 1/3 of the winter's ashes could go on the beds, with the remainder spread around the wider area of the orchard and grass/trees/shrubs.

In practice, I can't calculate it closer.  What I'm doing now is spreading a weekend's ashes on each unused raised bed, once for the winter.  The woodstove season extends more than 12 weekends, so I think that's safe.  The rest is scattered in a different area of orchard, or around bushes and trees, a fine dusting, each weekend.  Not around acid loving plants like conifers, blueberries, rhododendrons, camelias; or around potatoes.  I like that the atoms from trees, burned in the fireplace, can become atoms it the trees I'm growing.

Random thoughts, on a chilly rainy late fall morning.

Frosty Morning.

Quince Fruit

Fruit of Ornamental Quince

While pulling weeds around the shrubs, I discovered these on a quince bush. I assume this is a Chaenomeles hybrid   The quince was planted late winter, so is only about 18 inches tall.  Not sure what, if anything, I'll do with these.  I read they are astringent and bitter.

Nearing Completion of Raised Bed Garden

 I bought the wood last week.  This time there will be one 4 X 8 bed and one 2 X 8 bed.  In the location where I want to finish installing raised beds, that is how the spacing works out.

Yesterday I cut the wood.  It's easy on a table saw.  Two 2 X 6 X 8 ft long planks were cut into 4 foot sections, and one into 2 foot sections.  For the corners, a 2 X 4 was cut into 11 inch sections.

 This morning I thought, I'm in no hurry.  I'll see if I can pre-drill the corners.

That wasn't too bad.  So I used 3 inch deck screws to assemble them.  I discovered, it's easier if I remain standing and use something as a workbench, which was the cage that was sitting there anyway.

That wasn't too bad, so I cut woven plastic feed bags and stapled them to the inside, and the bottom edge, for liner.  We've been saving them for that purpose.

 I don't know if the liner will make them last longer.  But that's why I'm using it.  I don't want to use preservative chemicals or paint.  The liner is free and otherwise would have gone into the landfill.

I thought I only had enough for one bed, so completed the narrow one.  Later Ning told me he had more chicken feed bags but I was too tired to work on the other bed.

Last, I cut sections of chicken wire.  In previous posts, I used hardware cloth.  Hardware cloth has smaller holes and is stronger.  It's also more costly.  I might regret it but this time I went with chicken wire again.

I did the construction work next to the house.  It's easier on a level, paved surface.  Then Ning helped me put it on a wheelbarrow and move the bed to its final location.

It's nice having one started now.  I can fill it gradually through the winter, no hurry.  The usual combination of mile hill soil and compost, roughly 50:50 mix by volume.  There are lots of mole hills to collect now.  For the bottom layer, there are sod pieces that will compost in place.  I put those in upside down.  There has not been a problem with them regrowing.   Also some pulled weeds.

The 4 X 8 bed required 6 planks.  The 2 X 8 bed required 5 planks.  For one additional plank, the larger bed has double the growing area.

Sclumbergeras in Bloom

 The Schlumbergeras didn't get much attention this year.  I left them on the shady east side of the house and watered when I thought of it.  Moved them inside in October.

They bloomed nicely any way.  Nice fresh happy flowers for this time of year.

Products for pest control, fungal disease, and animal pest repellent.

Bionide Hot Pepper Wax

Lilly Miller Chelated Iron Plus

 I was looking for something else in the garage.  Found these products.  I don't know how old.  Maybe 5 years old.

Hot Pepper Wax might be reduce risk for animals chewing on tree bark and stems.  Two potential benefits.  The wax might have antidessicant properties, reduce frost damage on immature fig shoots.  Hot pepper extract might reduce chewing.

So I used up that spray on the fig trees, saturating the bark, the stem tips, and the tree wrap.

I would like to come up with a home remedy.  If I can figure out a sprayable wax.  Maybe the wax component is minimal, could as well be replaced with canola oil or neem oil.

This summer I noted Ning's ginkgo trees were not as green as the older one I planted.  Multiple potential reasons.  Ning's ginkgos were grown in container several years, until late last winter.  To avoid too much root damage, we left potting soil pretty much in place.  Mine was in more of a native soil.  I don't remember - if I gave mine some epson salts in the early Spring, too.  Maybe. And maybe some fish emulsion. 

I also noted mulberry leaves were pale.  That may be a mulberry tree characteristic.  Or this variety.  I was thinking, either magnesium (epson salts) or iron.  Or both.

I also read about iron supplements for fig trees, on an internet forum.  I was looking for some to apply during late winter.  I found this container.  So now that's taken care of too.  I prefer completely organic, but then how do I dispose of this?  It's not herbicide or pesticide, so I will use it up.  There isn't much.  Later find a completely organic source.

 Also thinking about what to use for fungal spots on the bearded iris leaves.  This year I did not use anything.  The spots were significant by fall.  Maybe it doesn't hurt anything.  In previous years, neem worked well for leaf spot and for aphids.  I found this partially used container.  I can use it up in the Spring.

Green Light Neem Concentrate

Early early early planning for next year

I ordered the following seeds from http://www.victoryseeds.com/.

3270021	Dwarf Green Long Pod Okra		$1.95		1		$1.95
3270071	Emerald Okra		$1.95		1		$1.95
3250351	Minnesota Midget Melon		$2.25		1		$2.25
3030061	Roma II Bush Green Bean Size Options: 1 ounce - $2.25		$2.25		1		$2.25
3310141	Cayenne Long Red Hot Pepper		$1.95		1		$1.95
3310171	Hungarian Yellow Wax Hot Pepper		$1.95		1		$1.95
3370211	Dark Green Zucchini Summer Squash		$1.75		1		$1.75
3300011	Oregon Sugar Pod II Pea		$1.95		1		$1.95

It's early.  Planning ahead gives me something to look forward to.

Some of the choices are proven performers for me.  The zucchini, Roma bean, Minnesota Midget melon, and the peppers have all done well.  Some are my standards.  The Okra varieties have potential due to their short season - the okra.  Some are shorter growing, so may work OK in a covered bed.  So far I held back on tomatoes.  I have lots of tomato seeds from previous years.

I also placed this order from Burpee.  Except for the compact Okra, all are heirloom varieties.

YOUR PURCHASE INFORMATION
NAME	SKU	DESCRIPTION	QTY	PRICE/ITEM	TOTAL ITEM
Okra, Baby Bubba Hybrid(54114A - 1 Pkt. (35 seeds))	54114A	This dwarf variety is only half as tall as other okras and perfect for large containers.	1	$4.95	$4.95
Borage(61481A - 1 Pkt. (200 seeds))	61481A	Young leaves for salads and lemonade.	1	$4.95	$4.95
Pepper, Hot, Lemon(54320A - 1 Pkt. (30 seeds))	54320A	HEIRLOOM. From Ecuador, as hot as any Cayenne, but with a truly unique flavor.	1	$5.25	$5.25
Pepper, Sweet, Banana(62976A - 1 Pkt. (125 seeds))	62976A	HEIRLOOM. An All-America Selections Bronze Medal winner for 1941 and still extremely popular.	1	$3.95	$3.95
Pepper, Hot, Tabasco(53275A - 1 Pkt.)	53275A	Small, very hot peppers that lend the kick to the famous hot sauce.	1	$4.95	$4.95

I want  to use1/2 of a a raised bed entirely for peppers.  Foraging in the vegetable garden for them was fun this year.  They added a lot of flavor to many meals.  They need some extra animal protection.  Maybe a chicken-wire fence.

The plan for okra is to raise plants indoors.   Then transfer to a covered raised bed, for warmer growth.  If last years' seeds grow, I may also have Clemson spineless.  Which didn't do great, but were my first attempt, ever, at growing okra.  It was nice using a few pods in soups.

A raised bed is 4 X 8 feet.  A half bed is 4 X 4 but one will be 2 X 8.

Thinking about it - 

1/2 bed for okra

1/2 bed for tomatoes.  Maybe a whole bed.

1/2 bed for peppers

1/2 bed for bush beans.
1/2 bed for pole beans.
1/2 bed for Zucchinis.
1/2 bed for butternut squash.
1/2 bed for melons.

This totals to 4 raised beds for summer / fall vegetables.

1/4 bed for snow peas. These are early, something can replace them in June.

Currently I have 1 bed planted in garlic.  Done in June so can be used for warm season vegetable.
1 bed for onions.  Also done in June so reusable.  That worked well this year for beans.
1/2 bed is shallots.  Those are done in July so can be used for a late vegetable.
1 bed is ready for winter or fall growing.  Maybe greens, radishes, scallions.

There are 11 1/2 raised beds, or will be when I finish the 1 1/2 currently pending.  3 are flowers, 1 is strawberry, leaving 7 1/2.  Other thoughts:  Eggplants.  have been a challenge, maybe1/2 of a covered bed would be warmer.   Chinese cabbages.  Those get eaten by cabbage worms. Even one with a row cover disappeared. 

The last 1 1/2 raised beds.  I have the wood.  It is cut.  Half of the holes are pre-drilled.  Maybe I'll assemble the sides this weekend.  I need to check on whether I have liner and hardware cloth or chicken wire to annoy the moles that want to tunnel into the beds.

The pics are all from Commons.wikimedia.org.

Lycoris. Progress Report.

Lycoris radiata

 The lycoris radiata leaves are greener.  The lycoris squamigera looks unchanged.  As I would expect.

We've had the first and second frosts.  These leaves look unaffected.

Not much else to do.  Which is just as well.  Feeling sick.

Lycoris squamigera

Mushrooms / fungi /

Mushrooms

Mushroom Circle - using i-phone

Mushroom circle - using camera

Big mushrooms

Everywhere at the Battleground place, there are mushrooms now.  Big mushrooms, little mushrooms, clusters, a fairy ring / mushroom circle.  Dark brown.  Near white.  In raised beds - new soil; in lawn - old soil, in the orchard, on the hill.  It's amazing how many mushrooms there are.

I don't know their names.  I don't know if any are edible, so I won't.

Looking at them now, there are so many, the soil must be well populated with mycelia throughout.  So I think adding mycorrhizal inocculant must be like bringing coal to Newcastle.  Probably not needed.  

Trip to Quincy, ILCemetery

My parents' gravesites, Quincy IL

Cemetery Iris May 2010

Iris memento

Last weekend I paid my respects to my  parents. They died in 2009 and 2010, nine months apart.

It's been 3 years since I've been there.  Being ill, I made the trip short.  Fly in to St.Louis, stay overnight; drive to Quincy, visit the cemetery.  Return to St Louis for overnight, then fly back to Portland.

The grass has not filled in completely.  There is a lot of clover which helps.  Being fall, the leaves scatter the lawn.  It's nice.

After my mother's funeral, I walked around the cemetery and pondered graves, trees, and the general surroundings.  This was a clump of bearded iris there.

At the edge, there were some discarded plant trimmings.  That included a couple of shriveled rhizomes.  I brought back two small pieces as a memento.  They were discards.  They may require a few years to bloom.  I don't know if they match the cluster here.  If they do survive and grow, I will ponder them and appreciate where they originated.