Seedling Update. Eucalyptus, Corymbia, and Portulaca. 12 Apr 24.

 First the Eucalyptus cinerea  (silver dollar tree) and Corymbia (lemon bush "Eucalyptus").

The Eucalyptus cinerea is the more vigorous of the two.

I cut the tips from two of the E. cinerea, to make them grow bushier.  The second tip cutting was last week.   I may let one or two of the others grow as actual trees, to plant in the yard next year.

I also cut the tips of the two most vigorous Lemon Bush Eucalyptus.  They are branching and growing nicely.  (I should note, there is some limited leaf irregularity).  It's interesting, the ones in the six pack did so poorly, while the ones in their own containers are more vigorous.   If memory serves, the ones in the six pack were multiples in their original, smaller seed sprouting pack.  I teased the roots apart to repot into the larger cells.  Maybe they really can't handle that treatment.  They seem to be growing fresh new leaves now, so I continue to give them TLC.  In comparison, the silver dollar tree Eucalyptus haven't had any problems at all.

I alternate between the common and scientific names, in hopes that will help me remember them.

The Portulaca (Rose Moss) look less delicate now.   They are also spending their days outside.

Seedling Update. Dahlias and Four O'Clocks. 12 Apr 24.

 The Dahlias and Four O'Clocks look nice.  I will wait until nights seem reliably above 50 F, before planting permanently outside. 

Dwarf Dahlias

Four O'Clocks.

Preparing / Rehabilitating Overwintered Mandevillas For Spring. 12 Apr 24.

 I've never grown Mandevillas before, so this is a learning process.  I overwintered the larger one (3 or 4 years old) in a corner of the sunroom.  It was too big to have elsewhere, but was difficult to access, so basically was near-dormant to nesr-dead).  The other (1 year old) was smaller and hanging from the ceiling, but still didn't get much attention.

The one-year old mandevilla (red) .

After clean-up and pruning.

Before pruning.

Last summer I had this hanging.  I haven't decided about this year.  It is three plants in one container.  Once it's well hydrated, and I am up to it, I'll repot with some fresh soil, in a larger container.

Here is the older (pink) Mandevilla.  It's really scraggly and sad looking.

Before pruning.

After pruning.

It looks pretty sad, but like they said in Jurassic Park, "Where there's life, there's hope.".  Or I think they said that.

I'm aiming for a bushy look or tower shape.  If there is good growth from the lower stems, I may prune off some of the tallest.   Once the soil is well hydrated, I'll start a lower nitrogen fertilizer so I don't stimulate too much rank growth, but some new growth, and encourage forming strong stems and blooming.

Celosia and Basil Seeds Germinating. 11 Apr 24.

 Those Celosia and basil seeds have germinated.  They were on the seed warming mat.

Large Leaf Basil

Celosia "Cock's Comb Dwarf Mix"

Celosia "Rainbow Sherbet"

All of these seeds were old, ranging 2 to 4 years.   They germinated quickly anyway.

Pruning a Gravenstein Apple Tree. 11 Apr 24.

Continuing Spring pruning.   Last fall, I had the deer fencing removed from around the Gravenstein apple tree.  It's big enough now, I think I can keep branches above convenient, deer salad bar height.   It's a lot easier to maintain an unfenced tree, thin fruit, pick fruit, prune, and mow, if the deer cage is gone.

Here is the after photo.

The goals for fruit trees in deer country are the same as everywhere else, but also to keep branches out of convenient reach for deer browsing,  I say "convenient" because a motivated deer can stretch really high, or can pull down willow branches.  But I have not had a problem when I kept the branches and leaves up high.

I like to have open center, for air circulation and for sunshine throughout the tree.  I don't like branches that rub on each other, so one of those has to go.

Bearing branches should not be long and willowy.  Even half inch branch at 10 feet high can droop to a few feet from the ground.  The  you get this -

 I have been aiming for young  bearing branches about a foot or two, off the heftier scaffold branches,  This also prevents excessive weight of too many apples, from breaking the limbs.

This tree has a pollinating graft that blooms at the same time.  I used Airlie Red Flesh, which has pink, almost red flowers.

That compares to the pale, almost-white flowers of Gravenstein.

The label had fallen off.  By making the original choice of a color coded variety, when I grafted on the original pollinating scion, It helped a lot in determining that important branch to keep.  In this case, the branch was drooping.  Instead of cutting it off, I tied it vertically to create a taller scaffold branch.

I graft on pollinating varieties partly for the fun, and to try different varieties, but also because honeybees have become less common.  Tiny pollinating bees are all over here, but seem to stay mostly within a tree's branches, rather than flying tree to tree.  I think having a different variety within a tree, whose bloom time overlaps with the main variety, increases the chances of successful pollination. 

Aren't they beautiful?  And they smell like apple blossoms.

Also, if a branch looks good but needs to be lifted or shifted to fill in a dead space, I tie it with cotton clothesline rope.  It's strong, easy to tie good knots (unlike plastic string), biodegradable but lasts a few years outside.

I did cut a couple of scaffolding branches that were too high or too low, or crossing another.

I cut off any buds or twigs below about six feet high, so as not to get a deer started and wanting more.

Here is the before photo.