The peppers are looking pretty good. I wonder if it's too cool to have peppers outside even during the day (mostly 60s F) but I think the sunshine and fresh air are good for them
They've been getting the same Liquid Schulz house plant food as other plants. I'm considering switching to a higher nitrogen but diluted Miracle Grow to boost them some more. I usually use 1/4 teaspoon per 2 quart watering can. My water is rain water, so salts are not an issue.
I'm impressed that the Eucalyptus seedlings are easier than I expected.
First, the Silver Dollar" Eucalyptus cinerea, which were the second ones I planted.
These are all in their 4" pots now, in regular potting soil. They are on the "plantmobile ", inside at night and outside during day. I topped three for bushiness. I might see if one or two will survive outside and grow into trees, so did not top those.
Second, the lemon bush Eucalyptus, Eucalyptus citriodora (AKA Corymbia citriodora). These are a mixed situation.
The ones in 4" pots look pretty good. I topped them a while back, and branches are forming.
The ones in the silicone six-packs don't look so great.
The leaf spots & leaves dying appeared shortly after transplanting them. I don't know why. Soil, light, temperature was the same. Maybe it's because I divided some of those, so they had more root trauma. Some seem to be growing again, so I'll keep taking care of them as I already am.
I finished regrafting the Redlove Espaliers with replacement varieties that I know I like, and I know perform here. Mainly Jonagold and Akane, a Japanese heirloom with Jonathan and other ancestry.
I tried matching scion / stock diameters but some were not in good places. For a couple, I used a side graft. For that, the scion is cut as a wedge, same as a wedge graft. Then a slice is made into the cambium of a much larger branch, making sort of an ear. The scion wedge is inserted and then wrapped as usual for tightness / cambium bond, and protection from dehydration.
Sorry about the bad photo.
I think this has as good a chance to take as any other. The main things are timing, sap is flowing in under stock to feed callous / cambium growth and fusing, the scion is dormant so some fusing happens before it starts growing, warm weather for good growth but not too warm, and a good clean cut with as much cambium contact, firmly held together. And protection from dehydration.
Farmers and gardeners have been grafting for thousands of years. Such as, ancient Rome, ancient China. It's a doable garden art.
I grafted the Redlove Odyssey with Akane. I was aggressive at shortening growth, leaving shorter spurs and removing wayward branches.
The top tier is "Freedom" apple, which I'm leaving in place. When (if) the grafts take and start making vigorous growth, I will cut off most of the long arms (or at least vigorous growth on those) of the tiers to foster most growth on the new grafts.
It's not all loss. The top tier of Redlove Era is the ancient heirloom Blue Pearmain, which looks to bloom and bear for the first time this year. The top tier of Redlove Odysso is Freedom, ditto. Plus there are the two espaliers that are not red flesh apples.
Lower half HoneyCrisp, top half Gala (not pictured) and lower half Zestar, top half Rubinette.
I pruned those too, removing wayward growth and shortening spurs - especially if they don't have flower buds. The Gala will have one more tier, on top. I bent tall growing branches into position while they are suppple, and added bamboo extensions to the trellis posts. Next it'll need a horizontal arm.
The rose I identified as "Sunmaid Kordana") - yellow mini-rose impresses me. Here's the first flower bud.
They are all thriving. This is the first time I've ever been able to grow them beyond the "new" stage. Currently, they are spending all of their days outside in full sun. Admittedly a fair amount of that is rainy. Temp ranging 50s to 60s. Sometimes I bring them in at night.
Of the reds, here is the first ("Bi-Mart Rescue Rose" ). I tentatively identified it as "Danika Kordana" but I'm not certain. It seems to be more compact and redder growth. Same treatment right now. Also thriving. It's worked hard and endured quite a lot. Now it's time to recover and thrive.
Both are getting Schulz liquid house plant fertilizer with most waterings. It's designed to be dilute so can be used each time, sort of like "fertigation".
The other, redder, red is still in its original soil. I'm waiting for the blooms to fade, which is starting now. I went through the patent list on the container. The only one among those, that is a rich red, is named "Daniela". It's complicated and there's probably no way to know for certain. (such as, I also thought the yellow one might be "Aloha".)
These are meant to be sold as commodities. Like, if you buy a red grocery store potato, it could be Red Pontiac" or " Red Norland" or "Red Something Else". It's just sold as red. I think, similar for these roses.
Here is the Kordana website. It looks like it's intended for vendors, not gardeners. Not much info, only a few of their many varieties. It's interesting to read.
I made another batch of bone meal. It's easy but takes a little effort. And some bones.
Even though I am vegetarian, I make all of Rufus's dog food. The main source of meat is chicken thigh or legs, both of which are high-taurine which some dogs require to prevent heart disease.
I slow cook the thighs and legs overnight. The meat just slips off the bones easily. This is probably easier than other bones.
Bird bones are light and more fragile than mammal bones. This would not work for cow or pig or sheep.
The bones need to be thoroughly dry. During the summer, I dry them in the sun room, which becomes very hot. Sometimes I use the oven after baking something, and it is cooling off. The temp doesn't matter. I don't leave them sit around damp. They would become moldy or attract creatures. If it's a while before they can be dried, they can be frozen in a freezer bag. This time, I was also making chicken heart jerky. I cut the hearts lengthwise, and dry in food dehydrator 145 F for 12-hours. Rufus likes them and they are 100% meat. At the same time, I spread the chicken bones on one of the trays and they dried just fine.
Then I pick a nice afternoon to sit on the deck with an audiobook and a granite mortar and pestle to smash and grind the bones into bone meal.
It's difficult to find a good analysis of trace chemical composition specifically of chicken bone, on line. Also, analyses may be for bone without marrow. Bone meal in general is an excellent source of calcium and phosphorus. I saw some suggestions they also contain magnesium in trace amounts. The brown color is from the marrow, which I imagine contains iron and protein (nitrogen) and some fat. The N-P-K is about 3-15-0 (Wikipedia) and calcium is about 12%.
As for use, bone meal needs to be mixed with soil, not on top. It breaks down over about four months, so now is a good time. It's best used in acid soil (Pacific NW, west of the Cascades for example). In Steve Solomon's book about gardening in the NW, he states the rains leach calcium from the soil, so soils here benefit from nitrogen supplement (no reference, just my memory).
Various sources recommend about a quarter cup of bone meal mixed with the soil when planting rose bushes. I did that. Also in garden bed preparation, I add about a cup per bed (40 square feet) or 1/4 cup per 4 foot row then mix in before planting.
