I planted another row of potatoes. I may not be allowing them to grow long enough stems while chitting, but I think they will be OK. The other uncertainty is with timing. I need to check the ground temperature. However, this is actually later than last year so, again, I think it is OK.
This time I planted some Red Norland. Good for potato salad , new potatoes, and potato soup.
I also added some organic 5-10-10 to the bottom of the trench, and hoed it into the underlying soil using a narrow garden rake / hoe. I have not fertilized potatoes in the past. I did so this time, after reading that yield and size might be improved.
Last year, this bed contained zinnias and cosmos. The previous year, it was sweetcorn and onions. Before that, it was a large, impenetrable blackberry bramble of uncertain age. So no potatoes have grown in this bed before, which is a good thing.
I like the trenches better than planting more shallowly and hilling up. I think the hills dry out more quickly, and I don't want to water more than I need to.
Wednesday, March 13, 2019
Grafting. 3.12.19
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This is the first step of wrapping the graft with plastic strip. Knot tied. |
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The strip is flattened, wrapped tightly up, then down, and tied again. |
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Finally, the scion is wrapped to avoid dehydration. I used parafilm this time. |
I thought I would show my current method. It's much easier than the older methods that involved grafting wax and string, or sticky tape. I use strips, about 3/4 inch wide, cut from gallon-size "Ziplock" plastic freezer bags. After experimenting with stretching, I can get a good firm tight binding, without breaking the strips.
The cutting and fitting of the scion and understock is as usual. I didn't do as fine a job as last year, but apple is fairly forgiving, so I think they should take. Once the whip and tongue graft scion and understock are fitted together, I tie a strip of plastic strip below the graft, with one end being short and the other long.
Then I flatten the strip, and wrap up, then down the graft. I pull the plastic strip as firm as I can, without stretching to the yield point where it loses it's stretch and tears.
Then I tie the end of the strip back to the original knot.
I wrap the scion with either a thinner plastic strip, or this time, parafilm. The goal there is to prevent dehydration but allow the buds to grow
This method gave 100% take last year. I'm hoping for a good result this year too.
I grafted -
That "Bill's Red Flesh".
A local crab apple variety from an HOS member, "Hi Jack".
Pristine.
I also bought some Bud-9 rootstock at the HOS show, and grafted Northpole apple onto that rootstock. I want to see if I can better limit the height, and make a much more compact columnar apple tree than I have with the original Northpole.
And quince varieties, to the quince tree that I'm reworking, adding Limon and Crimea Quince cultivars.
Also, onto a plum branch, I added one branch from an ornamental, fastigiate red plum (Scarlet Sentry?) from elsewhere in the yard, for pollination purposes. That goes both ways - I'm curious to see if those plums are larger or better set, when pollinated by more proximal plum varieties.
Sunday, March 10, 2019
New Fruit Trees. Persimmons and Columnar Apples. 3.10.19
Yesterday I receive my order from Raintree, which I planted today.
Two columnar apples: Tasty Red and Golden Treat. I think the names detract a little from the trees' attractiveness, because the names are sort of nondescript marketing efforts. Even so, these are considered disease resistant, they fit in the space I have for them, and I hope to taste-test them in a year or two.
Columnar apples have very stout stems. It's interesting.
I also planted two persimmon trees. which are pollination partners: Chocolate and Coffeecake. Spicy flavored Asian (Kaki) persimmons. These are far enough from my Saijo and Nikita's Gift, I am hoping they won't pillinate - I want those two to remain seedless.
There was also a "bonus free gift" in the box, a Triple Crown Blackberry. It's a giid variety. I planted that too..
Two columnar apples: Tasty Red and Golden Treat. I think the names detract a little from the trees' attractiveness, because the names are sort of nondescript marketing efforts. Even so, these are considered disease resistant, they fit in the space I have for them, and I hope to taste-test them in a year or two.
Columnar apples have very stout stems. It's interesting.
I also planted two persimmon trees. which are pollination partners: Chocolate and Coffeecake. Spicy flavored Asian (Kaki) persimmons. These are far enough from my Saijo and Nikita's Gift, I am hoping they won't pillinate - I want those two to remain seedless.
There was also a "bonus free gift" in the box, a Triple Crown Blackberry. It's a giid variety. I planted that too..
Home Orchard Society Scion Exchange. 3.10.19
Today was the Home Orchard Society scion exchange. Hundreds of varieties, apples more than others but zillions of pears and grapes, as well as a few others. I brought some scion from my apple trees and another member from my area, gave away some scion to other members, and gave away the extra fig trees that I've been nurturing for the past year.
I did pick up some scions to graft, nothing major. A male fuzzy kiwi, some quince, a couple of other things I will document when they are grafted.
Overall very nice. I'm not looking to add a lot of varieties now, just fine tuning my orchard, improving where I see a chance to make things better. Still, it's a lot of fun, and I love grafting.
Plus, I bought some Bud-9 Apple rootstock. Bud-9 is very dwarfing, somewhat fireblight resistant, precocious, and hardy. I want to create some new columnar apple trees (Northpole) that are easier to maintain ar a small size. I have already grafted and planted those.
I did pick up some scions to graft, nothing major. A male fuzzy kiwi, some quince, a couple of other things I will document when they are grafted.
Overall very nice. I'm not looking to add a lot of varieties now, just fine tuning my orchard, improving where I see a chance to make things better. Still, it's a lot of fun, and I love grafting.
Plus, I bought some Bud-9 Apple rootstock. Bud-9 is very dwarfing, somewhat fireblight resistant, precocious, and hardy. I want to create some new columnar apple trees (Northpole) that are easier to maintain ar a small size. I have already grafted and planted those.
Saturday, March 09, 2019
Early Grafting. 3.9.19
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Quince Grafts. Smyrna. 3.9.19 |
I'm reworking the vigorous Chehalis branch on a multigraft tree. None of the Chehalis apples have been good, so far - cracked, mottled, bad spits, not much taste on the parts that were not discolored. Yet, it's the most vigorous branch on the tree.
So, I'm reworking that branch with some other varieties. The first is Pristine. I salvaged the scion from a Pristine branch that had graft failure and broke off.
My grafting technique is rusty. Plus, these are small caliper scions. We'll see how they do. These are all whip & tongue. Apple is usually quite forgiving. I used 1/2 inch wide strips, cut from freezer zip-lock bags, to firmly tie and splint the grafts. Last year, that method had 100% success rate for me. To cover the scion and it's cut end, I used 1/4 inch Parafilm. I think thinner plastic might have bedn as good, but wanted to try it.
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Apple Grafts. Pristine. 3.9.19 |
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