A Spider

Spiders are our friends. I happened on this beautiful web, glistening with morning dew. It's maker lurks in the center, waiting for unsuspecting insects to land on her web.

Time to move shrubs and trees

We've been talking for a long time about moving this lilac. It was next to the grape arbor. We planted it as a bare-root specimen about 8 or 9 years ago. It's grown too large for its location.

It's fall, heading into the rainy season before winter comes. Now is a great time to plant trees and shrubs. By moving them now, they get a chance to replace lost roots before the hot summer season. They get a bit of a head start and are more likely to survive the process of moving.

I did not take photos of the digging and moving process. I pruned the lilac shrub, removing about one half of its growth. It's still a large shrub, despite that amount of pruning. I dug a trench around it. Not easy - the ground was very hard. The roots were not deep, probably due to the hard ground. I think most of the roots were in the upper 18 inches of soil, or so. Any torn roots, I pruned with a pruning shears to remove ragged edges, but otherwise they were left intact. Of course, a few were lost to digging.

As such a large shrub, it now looks like "it's always been there". Interesting.

I drug the uprooted bush, using an old vinyl shower curtain to smooth the way. I dug a whole in the new location, moved it into place, back filled the soil, and gave it a very good soaking. Even though this is Pacific Northwest and the rains are about to come, I did not want it to suffer dry conditions at the roots, and the ground is only damp to about 1 foot so far.

Lilacs usually take several years to bloom from a small bare-root plant. Most of ours seem to start blooming 4 or 5 years after planting. This is a mature lilac, and I did not want to lose the potential for lots of flowers soon. They bloom from the tops of strong stems that were produced the previous summer. By pruning it back, I probably removed most if not all of the potential blooming stems for next spring. There may be a few to give us a taste, I tried to keep some. If it settles into place, I expect it to bloom in the following Spring on growth it makes early next summer.

Backyard Orchard: Mulberry

Seems like it's growing faster now that it did all summer. I DID get 2 mulberries from this tree, so at least got a taste. Interesting, I liked them. Not as sweet as raspberries, they had their own distinct flavor.

This winter I'll cut it back to about 5 feet tall, to encourage low branching and start it on the way to the "backyard orchard" method.

This tree got off to a slow start but is now looking healthy and strong.

Barrel Planters and Peppers

Peppers looking great. Now I need to pick them and figure out something to cook. I'm thinking about making risotto-stuffed peppers.

I've never had so many peppers reach maturity before. The barrels are definitely the way to go.

The mysterious "night blooming Cereus" blooms again.

Otherwise known as Epiphyllum oxypetallum.

Charlie had to see what it was all about.

If I had taken excellent care of the plant, it might have had more flowers. One or two is sufficient, however. I forgot how fragrant they are. The house was filled with the sweet scent.

Just beautiful.

I applied some pollen to a couple of Schlumbergera. Chances of that coming to fruition are small - I have no idea if they are related! But if they do, it might be fun a few years from now. Assuming they grow.

These are SO easy to grow, it's easy to wind up with extra plants. If a piece breaks off, or is too long and I trim it off, all that is needed is to stick it into some potting soil and it grows. I've never had one not-grow.

More buds on orchid plants

So often, it's difficult to find a photo or reference telling us "what is this growth on my orchid" or giving us an idea of "how long from this bud to an actual flower". Which is why I photographed these early buds. I don't know how long it will take either, but I feel certain these are flower buds and not new growths.

This Cymbidium hybrid (brown flowered, shown in posts earlier this year) has been in full sun, outdoors, from early summer to now. I've quit fertilizing, and quit watering unless it looks completely dry. I feel certain the two bottom growths are flower buds - the new growths that result in leaves are green, while these buds are deep maroon. They've been present about one month and are very slowly growing. I think they'll be blooming in a few more months, but not having grown them before I'm not sure. The plant will have to come inside before actual frosts, but not until then.

This Phalaenopsis hybrid is producing a new growth as well. The point of confusion for Phalaeonpsis would be with new roots. However, the roots look like little green and white worms, and point downwards. They seem to originate more on the side, as opposed to just within a leaf node. This growth is pointing upwards, seems to have a sheath structure similar to those seen on the old, dried flower stems, and doesn't have the downy vellum of a root. Again, I don't know how long to a flower. I'll have to post when it actually blooms - probably in 2 or 3 months. Meanwhile, I continue fertilizing weakly weekly, 1/4 teaspoon of "Growmore Bloom Formula", 6-30-30. The instructions state 1 teaspoon per gallon, but I'm using the 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of rain water method, which is the designation "weakly weekly". One thing I noted, this fertilizer does not contain magnesium (It has manganese which is an entirely different mineral). I've read that orchids do require magnesium, and therefore benefit from occasional dose of Epsom Salts. Not sure if that's true, and they seem to be doing quite well without it, but maybe I'll add a 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon to the next watering. This plant's leaves have a burgundy hue, which could mean too much light, but I think that's just this plant's coloration. I like these dark colored leaves. Some others in the same, North, window, are a grassy green.

These are the current outdoor orchids, except the Cymbidium above. These are in full sun, south side of house, and just being watered with rainwater, rarely adding some "bloom food" but usually just rain water. These are Yamamoto dendrobiums, and this is as close as I can come to their instructions for fall care. Giving water and fertilizer is said to encourage growths (keikis) and discourage actual flower buds. The plant in the greenish pot has 3 keikis, and had one earlier this summer that I removed and started as a new plant, but that's all. They may shrivel and the leaves may turn brown and fall, that's considered normal. I takes self discipline not to water them more, and when looking very dry I do give some water.

In addition, there are two young Oncidium (probably variety "Gower Ramsey") plants grown last year from backbulbs. One has a second growth/pseudobulb sprouting off the side. These are quite vigorous and fast growing, for an orchid, but I cant seem to get them to bloom. This is my attempt to simulate their unknown native conditions and encourage bloom. These Oncidiums may be too young to bloom, or this may not be the correct condition, but it's worth a try.

Cattleya-type orchids. Work in progress.

Not having bloomed a Cattley-type orchid from start of growth to bloom, I'm anxious to see if these make flowers. This is Potinara Cheryl Winkleman "Chris", bought earlier this year. It has a nice new growth now, and a sheath that potentially could become a flower. That process can take months, so it's suspense for a long time. Looks healthy for now.

Potinara Achung Yoyo "Little Goldfish". I enjoyed this one when I bought it, in bloom. The new growth appears as healthy and sturdy as the previous growth. No sheath yet, but I have some optimism due to the healthy-appearing growth.

Schlumbergeras are starting to bloom

This salmon colored Schumbergera is usually the first to bloom. This year I took some cuttings from this plant, they are just beginning to make buds. This plant was left unattended for a couple of months this summer, under the grape vine. It might be more prolific now, but I can't complain.

These tend to make buds on the side facing the window. I suppose if I turned them more often they would have buds all around.

All of these were summered outside, some under the grape arbor and some on the North side of the house, where they received some morning and some evening sun, but not midday. I watered them when I remembered to do so. Most years I'm more attentive, but they don't seem to mind. Others are just beginning to make buds, so there will be Schlumbergera flowers for at least 2, maybe 3, months.

In their own way, these are as colorful and exotic as orchids. In fact, they are epiphytic and originate in Brazil, in some of the same general areas as some orchids. I may not appreciate them enough, because I'm so accustomed to them. But it's always great when they bloom.

I don't know orchids well enough yet to know if some are as easy as Schlumbergera - maybe so. There is more diversity of flower. I'm glad I don't have to choose, these are all great exotic indoor bloomers that brighten up the shortening days.


This pink one is newer. I wish they had name tags, but as it is I have to accept them for who they are.


A little lopsided, but that's fine. It's really beautiful.

These are supposed to be "Christmas cactus" or "Holiday cactus" or "Thanksgiving cactus" . The "Christmas cactus" label is really a different species but these are sometimes given that label. I prefer the genus name, otherwise what would these be - Columbus Day cactus?

Planted some Tulips

I planted big bunches of tulips in the back yard, from big bags from a big box store. Each bag stated there were 60 mulbs, so 120 tulips. I plant them in bunches of 5 or 6. Instead of using a bulb planter, I dig with a shovel, it's faster and gives me a chance to till the soil a little. Also planted some bunches of these in the front yard:

Most of the tulips were "standard" varieties, but I like adding some more elaborate types as well. There were from a big box store.

These might be nice for some cut flowers. These were from a local nursery. I think the blends usually have a predominance of a few types, but it's like that box of chocolates, you never know what you're going to get.

Most tulips seems to "peter out" here. A few varieties persist and proliferate. Unclear why, but I tend to look at them as a type of annual, just to cheer me up by shouting "It's Spring, it's Spring". Daffodils seem to persist better and multiply, although some bunches of those sometimes die out as well. Both have their place, and I feel like I'm doing something for myself when I plant them in the fall.

There are so many bulbs under the ground here now, I can't dig without finding a few. No problem, I just replant them

A little orchid report

I thought this was a miltonia but on reading closer the tag stated Beallara Purple Haze "Jimi Hendrix". Beallara is an intergeneric of Miltonia with Brassia, Cochlioda, and Odontoglossum, heavy on the Miltonia, so I wasn't too far off. I don't know if I'll keep it when it's done blooming - just something to look at until other flowers start to bloom. Quite nice I think. According to the book "Bloom Again Orchids" by Judy White, Beallara needs day temps in med 60s to mid 70s, and nights in mif 50s to 60, so I think it could do well for me. Plus, light requirement is "Medium" indicating bringht indirect eastern or southern window. I think I can do those.

This Paphiopedilum "Maudeae" is gradually getting closer to blooming. It will be the first Paphiopedilum to bloom for me, all on growth that occurred under my care, so I'm pleased.

This Phalaenopsis is inching closer and closer to rebloom. This is a new spike, from a previously blooming spike that finished. It's almost as good as blooming from growth that occurred under my care. This little Phalaenopsis is a real trooper.