Starting Peppers and Onions under LEDs. Update 2.9.19

Here are the pepper and onion seedlings under LEDs. I bought an additional unit.  I think this one was 35 Watts.  I did not realize it would give, in addition to the blue and red lights, some yellow and white.  That's fine, and from what I read, better.  I also have aluminum foil sheets that I hang on side and ends of the plant rack to reflect more light onto the plants.  So far Im very happy with how the plants are doing.

The bottom photo shows my old CFL light.  I got it out for getanium cuttings that I started from last fall's plants, and a couple of orchids.  Those geraniums are growing fast under this light.

Orchid Blogging for January

I can't take much credit for this Phalaenopsis - it was in bud when I bought it. This keeps blooming and blooming and blooming. The last Harlequin that i had bloomed for a year, but then when I was nurturing it back to the next bloom, I think I overwatered it, and it died. That doesn't happen much to my orchids, but it proves I am not the "orchid whisperer" yet.

This Cymbidium hybrid is the only one from last year that is blooming this year. I don't know why - if it is that it is more suited for my circumstances, or just a random difference. They are nice and fragrant, and I like these flowers more than the ones it had last year.

Oncidium "twinkle".  This must be the easiest Oncidium hybrid to rebloom.  This is the second rebloom this year.  I have been growing this with dilute Miracle Grow Tomato food - 1/4 teaspoon per gallon.  Not organic for the orchids, their situation is too artificial as it is, and miracle grow is mineral based, not a petrochemical.

I've had this Oncidium hybrid for 2 years. It was a tiny plant, beige / brown flower. I bought it as a "disposable" but then kept it anyway. Glad I did - now it's starting a spike. I'm starting to think I can grow Oncidiums - although I still can't get the yellow ones to bloom. I have another one in spike too, but one pic of a small early spike is enough.

Miltoniopsis hybrid.  Or possibly, Miltonia.  This is another plant I thought I would just keep while in bloom, left it on the deck for a month or two without any care at all, then another Miltoniopsis bloomed so I reconsidered and repotted it.  That was last summer.  And now...  the beginning of a flower spike.  Actually, 2 flower spikes.  Amazing!

Orchids in January: Promises

A couple of hours with an ice pack on my back, and 600mg of ibuprofen, and I was up to walking around with the camera and looking at the "promises" of orchid blooms. They are gradual, but they always bring hope. A bit over one year ago, I didn't know if I could bring orchids into bloom, or if they would even survive. Now the windows are full of orchids, many with buds or spikes. Most are in South windows unless otherwise stated.

This Cymbidium continues to lengthen its spike. I try to be patient. Actually, there is no other choice! It's my first attempt at a Cymbidium, and I'm happy it's come this far. The flowers are brownish with magenta spotted lip, difficult for me to describe. If I've indexed it right, it can be found by clicking on the Cymbidium label.

As I was walking around taking photos, I noticed a new spike on this Burrageara Stefan Isler "Lava Flow". I am SO EXCITED! COOL! I was ready to give up hope for reblooming Oncidium alliance orchids. This one really grew nicely last year, several new pseudobulbs, a full specimen plant. I've been noticing the newer pseudobulbs swelling, and looked as recently as this week without seeing the any new spikes. I was starting to think about whether I wanted to keep it.

So like a proud parent with a camera, here is the spike! Did it grow from almost nothing to 3 inches overnight? Or did I just not notice it? Still quite some growth to happen before it blooms, but I think that the biggest hurdle is getting it to decide to make a spike. This is so cool!

Like the good child in the family, this Yamamoto Dendrobium Fancy Angel "Lycee" continues to behave and impress, without much encouragement, out performing everyone else and not getting a lot of credit for it because it is so reliable. Starting to spike again after a beautiful performance 2 months ago. A very reliable and beautiful flower.

This Trader Joe's Yamamoto Dendrobium "NOID Purple" (my name) is also a strong performer, but hasn't bloomed before this winter. Here we see new buds swelling. I also bloomed last winter and again during the summer. (Added later - I forgot I had decided this is Yamamoto Dendrobium Love Memory "Fizz". Looks just like it, and with that name I must have it.)

Here is the keiki that I started from above Trade Joe's Yamamoto Dendrobium "Purple", sharing a supplemental light source in the South window. The light is mainly there for the two Dendrobium phalaenopsis - type hybrids, that I suspect need more light in the winter. They are "Anching Lubag" and "Genting", for the record. Whether they will grow and rebloom is a question I hope is answered this year. The Yamamoto keiki, now a plant on it's own, is fattening up nicely and is maturing. It would be cool if it bloomed at a small size, but regardless, it's fun to have started an orchid plant "from the beginning".

Here is the Trader Joe's Epidendrum "NOID Red" (again, my name. Creative....) but it needs to be called something. These are said to be very easy, but you never know until you grow them yourself. It's making several new spikes on growth that happened in 2010 so it's another case of "I did it!" It's in a South window.

Iwanagaara Appleblossom "Fantasy" appears to have a nice spike on one of the new, larger-fatter pseudobulbs that grew last year. It's in a South window. I understand that these can give up while there is still a sheath, but have some hope. Holding it to the light, there appears to be a flower bud inside that sheath. Same is true for unpictured Potinara Achung Yoyo "Little Goldfish" which, if only because of the name, I would love to see it bloom.

A beautifully burgundy-leafed Phalenopsis (or is it Doritonopsis?) which has had a slowly growing flower spike for about 6 months. Inch by inch..... It's in a North window.

This rebloom-on-old-spike Phaenenopsis is another case of reliability to the point of taking for granted. Of course, I haven't had it bloom from a de novo new spike yet, but it's been in bloom for months and months. The photo doesn't do it justice, it's darker than the photo shows. It's in a West window.

Another Phalaenopsis about to rebloom on existing spikes. This one is white with pink polka-dots. Quite pretty. It also has a de novo spike. It's in a South window. In my area, even South windows are gloomy this time of year.

More buds on orchid plants

So often, it's difficult to find a photo or reference telling us "what is this growth on my orchid" or giving us an idea of "how long from this bud to an actual flower". Which is why I photographed these early buds. I don't know how long it will take either, but I feel certain these are flower buds and not new growths.

This Cymbidium hybrid (brown flowered, shown in posts earlier this year) has been in full sun, outdoors, from early summer to now. I've quit fertilizing, and quit watering unless it looks completely dry. I feel certain the two bottom growths are flower buds - the new growths that result in leaves are green, while these buds are deep maroon. They've been present about one month and are very slowly growing. I think they'll be blooming in a few more months, but not having grown them before I'm not sure. The plant will have to come inside before actual frosts, but not until then.

This Phalaenopsis hybrid is producing a new growth as well. The point of confusion for Phalaeonpsis would be with new roots. However, the roots look like little green and white worms, and point downwards. They seem to originate more on the side, as opposed to just within a leaf node. This growth is pointing upwards, seems to have a sheath structure similar to those seen on the old, dried flower stems, and doesn't have the downy vellum of a root. Again, I don't know how long to a flower. I'll have to post when it actually blooms - probably in 2 or 3 months. Meanwhile, I continue fertilizing weakly weekly, 1/4 teaspoon of "Growmore Bloom Formula", 6-30-30. The instructions state 1 teaspoon per gallon, but I'm using the 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of rain water method, which is the designation "weakly weekly". One thing I noted, this fertilizer does not contain magnesium (It has manganese which is an entirely different mineral). I've read that orchids do require magnesium, and therefore benefit from occasional dose of Epsom Salts. Not sure if that's true, and they seem to be doing quite well without it, but maybe I'll add a 1/4 teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon to the next watering. This plant's leaves have a burgundy hue, which could mean too much light, but I think that's just this plant's coloration. I like these dark colored leaves. Some others in the same, North, window, are a grassy green.

These are the current outdoor orchids, except the Cymbidium above. These are in full sun, south side of house, and just being watered with rainwater, rarely adding some "bloom food" but usually just rain water. These are Yamamoto dendrobiums, and this is as close as I can come to their instructions for fall care. Giving water and fertilizer is said to encourage growths (keikis) and discourage actual flower buds. The plant in the greenish pot has 3 keikis, and had one earlier this summer that I removed and started as a new plant, but that's all. They may shrivel and the leaves may turn brown and fall, that's considered normal. I takes self discipline not to water them more, and when looking very dry I do give some water.

In addition, there are two young Oncidium (probably variety "Gower Ramsey") plants grown last year from backbulbs. One has a second growth/pseudobulb sprouting off the side. These are quite vigorous and fast growing, for an orchid, but I cant seem to get them to bloom. This is my attempt to simulate their unknown native conditions and encourage bloom. These Oncidiums may be too young to bloom, or this may not be the correct condition, but it's worth a try.

A little orchid report

I thought this was a miltonia but on reading closer the tag stated Beallara Purple Haze "Jimi Hendrix". Beallara is an intergeneric of Miltonia with Brassia, Cochlioda, and Odontoglossum, heavy on the Miltonia, so I wasn't too far off. I don't know if I'll keep it when it's done blooming - just something to look at until other flowers start to bloom. Quite nice I think. According to the book "Bloom Again Orchids" by Judy White, Beallara needs day temps in med 60s to mid 70s, and nights in mif 50s to 60, so I think it could do well for me. Plus, light requirement is "Medium" indicating bringht indirect eastern or southern window. I think I can do those.

This Paphiopedilum "Maudeae" is gradually getting closer to blooming. It will be the first Paphiopedilum to bloom for me, all on growth that occurred under my care, so I'm pleased.

This Phalaenopsis is inching closer and closer to rebloom. This is a new spike, from a previously blooming spike that finished. It's almost as good as blooming from growth that occurred under my care. This little Phalaenopsis is a real trooper.

Orchid Blogging

Still learning about orchids, and watching their progress over the past year. It's been about that long since I started becoming more interested in them.

The way I look at it, the first part is to not-kill them. The second part is to get them to grow. The 3rd part is to get them to bloom. Propagation is optional, but fun. If purchased in-bloom, another aspect of the first part is to keep them blooming as long as possible. That seems to be rather easy.

This unlabeled Paphiopedilum hybrid, Maudiae type, was one of the first that I obtained. I need to check - I think it's a green flowered type. Should be back in the links (labels). I've been treating it as the books instruct, medium light, general orchid plant food weakly weekly. It added a couple of new growths. I count the leaves, thinking that if a growth reaches 5 or 6 leaves, it will be time to bloom. Not certain it that's true, but last week I noted the appearance of a bud. Cool!

Close-up of the bud. Another may be headed there as well, I'll add it if it really is a flower bud. I understand that the process from bud to blossom is gradual, and patience is needed. The upside of that slow process, is that once in bloom, the flowers can last a month or more. Regardless, I'm excited!

The books and the Yamamoto website (see prior posts) promote a season of coolness in bright light to promote Dendrobium nobile hybrid blooming. These are under eaves (out of the rain) south side of house (bright light). One can hardly call the light here in the Pacific Northwest "direct sunlight" so I'm not concerned about sunburn, and anyway these plants were in full unfiltered sun all summer long. This treatment, allowing coolness at night and not soaking them, keeping them in bright light, is considered key to obtaining nice flowers on these hybrids.

Of course, this NOID Dendrobium nobile hybrid continues to cheerfully violate the rules, blooming and blooming and blooming. It is indoors in a south exposure, but spent the summer in the same location as the others.

Dendrobium phaelenopsis "Genting" obtained last month at Missouri Botanical Gardens in St. Louis, after traveling to midwest for my dad's funeral. It continues to bloom cheerfully. I'll hold off any repotting until it finishes blooming.

This Cymbidium has been in a full-sun exposure, all summer. I generally gave it "weekly weakly" feeding, but on occasion provided some higher nitrogen plant food, because most instructions suggest higher nitrogen in summer. I'm keeping it outside for cool nights, per standard instructions for this genus.

Here's the question now - Is this a flower bud? Or another growth spurt. Watchful waiting!

Now we get to "the problem with impulse buying". Last year I bought this plant on impulse at a big box store. It was in a tiny plastic bag. The label is below.

I didn't know anything about Vandas or Ascoscendas at the time. Both are probably inappropriate for this setting and my house, needing more light than I can provide.

Instructions not too helpful either. Can't even tell, is it an Ascocenda or a Vanda? Peobably should throw it away, space is valuable. But, it stays alive, growing slowly, so I'll keep it for now.

A few Phalaenopsis hybrids

I tend to take Phalaenopsis for granted. There are so many available, all of the time, after a while they tend to blur together. I guess they're just too common. Plus, of ones I have bought so far, I haven't been able to rebloom them. But it's been less than 9 months, and some of the earlier ones are growing new leaves - slowly, like most orchid growth.

That's too bad - they are very nice flowers, very long lasting, and if bought in bloom, don't need a lot of care to be kept in bloom for at least a couple of months.

These are fairly 'standard' looking Phalaenopsis hybrids. I'm not that enthusiastic about the pale-colored ones, but bought them for variety. They've been in bloom for about 2 months. I brought them home when I started my leave of absence, 2 weeks ago.

In most cases, the grocery-store Phalaenopsis appear to be reently potted up from tiny containers, and the up-grade consists of very tightly wrapped sphagnum moss. I find this difficult to water effectively - they either seem to dry and the water just runs through, or they are very soggy and become rancid. My solution is to repot, carefully remove all moss and all original medium that I can without damaging roots and flowers, then repot in bark-based orchid mix. This doesn't seem to hurt the plants, they act as if nothing happened, but the watering is much less challenging.


Another case of evolving taste. Six months ago I didn't like these plum-spotted "Harlequin" Phalaenopsis. now here we are, one in the house. I bought it to cheer the office, but again, brought it home. It's growing on me, I like it now.

Orchid blogging

It's been chilly and rainy all week. Not much to do outdoors - today I did mow the lawn, such as it is, for the first time.

The orchids came via UPS on Friday. See prior posting. The plants were in great shape, I'm very impressed with the appearance of the plants and with the care given to the packing. Hausermann orchids.

The link displays this Brassolaeliocattleya

The variety is "Ports of Paradise" Emerald Isle. Fragrant. May bloom twice a year.

I do not have room for more orchids, but I placed an order for a small one of this variety. I don't know how it will do here, so better not to spend too much. Something might have to go, to make room for it.

I repotted one Potinara and the Vaughnara. They were well potted. The Vaughnara was spilling out of its pot, and looks like it has some active growth, so it seems like a good moment to do so. The Potinara probably didn't need repotting, but I wanted to have it in a container with openings in the sides for better drying between waterings.

I also repotted the cymbidium - this had tough, healthy appearing roots encircling the medium in the container, difficult to separate. I also repotted a Phalaenopsis and a Paphiopedilum. In both cases, I realized that I should have repotted them on purchase. They had been grown in excessively moisture-retentive medium, then potted up in bark mix, then wrapped in spagnum. As a result, there were rotted roots. I cleaned them up, removed all old medium that I could, and potted into the new bark mix. We'll see.