Firewood. 9.2.2020

 Our property has a few stands of small to medium size trees.  I love trees, but there was a stand of evergreens within 20 feet of the house.  They were mixed species - pine, fir, juniper, spruce - and planted as a hedge, as little as a foot apart.  Over the years, they reached about 20 or 30 feet tall.  This presented a fire hazard to the house, being near a long row of Leyland cypress on the neighbor's property.  So we had them cut down two months ago.

We have a wood-stove, which is under-size.  This wood-stove is nice as a supplemental heat source on cold winter days.  The ashes go into the vegetable garden, source of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and magnesium, among others.  We gave away the largest logs, but kept the smaller ones for the wood-stove.

I want to get those into the woodshed to dry and for storage.  All of them need cutting into half, or thirds, or trim of the ends, to fit into the wood-stove.  The larger diameter logs get cut into cookies, to lay sideways in the stove, instead of lengthwise.  I think those will dry faster, and they burn faster.  Each day, I cut enough to fill the small wagon.  It's a hard job, but is gradually nearing completion.  I think there are about three days of work to go.

These go into the woodshed at the other end of the property.  They will cure for a year or two or three, before use as wood-stove logs.  This may be the last of my major firewood cutting.  It's too much.  But it will be nice to have them there for when we want them.

Firewood and Wood Ashes. 11.12.18

Rufus keeping warm by the woodstove.  11.12.18

Over the years, we've had many trees fall on our 2-acre property.  Most have been scrubby, especially cascara trees with trunks about 1 foot thick at the base, tapering up the trees' approximately 30 foot height.  I've also collected some trimmed branches with dimensions that fit in to the woodstove.  We use the cut pieces to supplement the house's heat.  The woodstove makes a big difference, keeping the house warm on cold days.

After the wood is burned, I collect the ashes and spread on the yard and garden.  I avoid spreading ashes on areas where acidic soil is preferred, such as near chestnut trees, or near rhododendrons, or where I will plant potatoes next season.  Those plants do not appreciate alkaline conditions or wood ashes.

This is where a soil test is handy.  Our soil was quite low in calcium, then magnesium.  Wood ashes are alkaline, so can buffer an acidic soil.    Their major component is calcium carbonate - so they have an effect similar to lime, although not as strong as lime.  Wood ashes contribute calcium to soil, then potassium and phosphorus, and some magnesium.   Ed Hume recommends spreading ash around trees and shrubs.  I avoid around acid-loving plants, like chestnut trees, rhododendrons, azaleas, or evergreens, as well as where I will grow potatoes next season. Ed Hume recommends 1 gallon of dry wood ashes per square yard of garden, or 1/4 to 1/2 inch on lawns and flower beds.  Farmer's Almanac recommends 20 pounds per 1000 square feet, which would be 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or 1 pound per 50 square feet - a 5 foot by 10 foot bed.  I apply less, figuring I don't want to overdo it.  I just use a dusting on the vegetable beds for next year, and on lawn around fruit and specimen trees.  Less than the recommend 1/4 inch, so I doubt any problem will occur.

My philosophy is that the trees and garden are already goring nicely.  By adding ashes, I'm returning some of the minerals that trees and vegetables have removed from the soil.  That will help growth in future years. Our soil is high in potassium, the next ingredient that is high in wood ashes, so that aspect is not needed.  The magnesium and phosphorus content of ashes is not much, but would be helpful.as well.