This is considered the "wrong time" to prune roses. However, I see it done now, and earlier, around my neighborhood and their's do fine. The theory is that early pruning stimulates early, frost sensitive growth. That tender growth uses the plant's stored sugars, and when the new grow freezes and dies, there's nothing left for replacement growth.
Maybe my neighbors created a Darwinian evolution, with the easily killed varieties now dead, and the varieties that tolerate midwinter pruning thriving. Whatever the case, waiting longer means more work in the Spring, so I also pruned one of our two rose beds. Most of these are David Austin, own-root varieties. A few are rustled (home cuttings from a bouquet or rogue bush in the treeway), also own-root. A couple are grafted tea or florabundas.
Difficult to see them in the jumble. Heights from 3 to 6 feet tall.
Some modern authors recommend just cutting back a little, with shears, and not being too specific with what is cut. I suspect they haven't tried this method organically. I try to remove all dead and diseased canes, and all crossing or misdirected canes, and generally thin a little. I also cut them back more. My theory is that I'm removing more disease potential, and since I grow organically I don't use any toxic sprays. There may be fewer or less humongous blossoms, but there are plenty and I like them as they are.
After, most are now 1 foot tall. A few grocery-store miniatures, that I felt sorry for and planted about 5 years ago, I pruned almost to the ground. Tamora, a rank-growing David Austin variety, I basically pruned to 2 feet and didn't thin much. Too difficult now and I was wearing out. Scepter'ed Isle, another own-root David Austin variety, had grown to 6 ft tall. I pruned it back to about 2 feet, it was just way too tall.
Friday, January 01, 2010
Dendrobium orchid, and a book review
This week I saw this one at Trader Joes. I'm much pickier now, since I seem to have at least one of each of the readily available, home-grower-friendly genus / intergeneric hybrids. If subsequent seasons result in a mini-Cattleya, laeliocattleya, or similar small home-friendly variety; or a miniCymbidium, I might add those. But the current collection is enough to see if they will actually grow and rebloom in my home setting.
Authors differ on whether to repot new orchids on purchase. I did, moving this plant into a ceramic orchid pot with many holes in the sides. Maybe should have sought a bigger one, this had a small amount of extra room but not much. By planting in an orchid pot, I think I'm less likely to cause rot diseases by overwatering.
I've been using a standard Ortho orchid food at recommended strength, about half of the time when I water. The package recommends using every time, but it seems excessive in winter. I also used a standard orchid bark-based mix for the repotting.
For some reason, I like the cane-type pseudobulb varieties (Dendrobium group) and pseudobulb varieties (Oncidium) more than the rosette and other monopodals. I don't know why I prefer these. Plus, Paphiopedilum are rosette-type, and I like them. No accounting for my own taste, I just like them more. The cane-type have an almost bamboo-like appearance.
Book Review.
I bought a book at Safeway, "Easy Orchids" by Mimi Luebbermann. It's a nice little book, lots of pictures (which is why I bought it), and discusses briefly numerous of the easy-to-grow types. A fun book to read and keep for later browsing.
Authors differ on whether to repot new orchids on purchase. I did, moving this plant into a ceramic orchid pot with many holes in the sides. Maybe should have sought a bigger one, this had a small amount of extra room but not much. By planting in an orchid pot, I think I'm less likely to cause rot diseases by overwatering.
I've been using a standard Ortho orchid food at recommended strength, about half of the time when I water. The package recommends using every time, but it seems excessive in winter. I also used a standard orchid bark-based mix for the repotting.
For some reason, I like the cane-type pseudobulb varieties (Dendrobium group) and pseudobulb varieties (Oncidium) more than the rosette and other monopodals. I don't know why I prefer these. Plus, Paphiopedilum are rosette-type, and I like them. No accounting for my own taste, I just like them more. The cane-type have an almost bamboo-like appearance.
Book Review.
I bought a book at Safeway, "Easy Orchids" by Mimi Luebbermann. It's a nice little book, lots of pictures (which is why I bought it), and discusses briefly numerous of the easy-to-grow types. A fun book to read and keep for later browsing.
Traditional New Years Day Grape Pruning
Each year, I prune grapevines on New Year's Day. It's a good way to remember to do it. Plus, I don't have to remember "It seemed to work last year, but when did I do it?". Despite aches and pains, I pruned. Carefully.
Observations this year: There are a lot more dead canes and spurs than I've seen before. Must be the record cold in November - down to 12 degrees, several days. Venus appears the most susceptable, but all varieties had some dieback.
For the most part, I kept to the spur method, leaving new stems with 2 buds past the initial growth. Last year there were too many grapes, so I thinned some spurs to 1 to 2 new stems. In addition, I removed some larger branches from Canadice, which I don't like as much, and left a new cane from Venus, which I like better, to fill in. I also left 2 replacement canes on Interlaken, which I like a lot; same for Price - my favorite of all. On Price, I may have left too many spurs, but it started raining. Plus, Price clusters are smaller, so more spurs may be a good idea.
The larger grape arbor, before pruning. Canadice on left, Interlaken on right, and Venus on left, in back.
Grape arbor after pruning. Some of the canes were twice my height, so 12 feet of growth. Without major pruning, they would quickly get out of hand.
Price grape, before pruning.
Price grape, after pruning. I left a couple of canes as well, in case too many spurs died.
Observations this year: There are a lot more dead canes and spurs than I've seen before. Must be the record cold in November - down to 12 degrees, several days. Venus appears the most susceptable, but all varieties had some dieback.
For the most part, I kept to the spur method, leaving new stems with 2 buds past the initial growth. Last year there were too many grapes, so I thinned some spurs to 1 to 2 new stems. In addition, I removed some larger branches from Canadice, which I don't like as much, and left a new cane from Venus, which I like better, to fill in. I also left 2 replacement canes on Interlaken, which I like a lot; same for Price - my favorite of all. On Price, I may have left too many spurs, but it started raining. Plus, Price clusters are smaller, so more spurs may be a good idea.
The larger grape arbor, before pruning. Canadice on left, Interlaken on right, and Venus on left, in back.
Grape arbor after pruning. Some of the canes were twice my height, so 12 feet of growth. Without major pruning, they would quickly get out of hand.
Price grape, before pruning.
Price grape, after pruning. I left a couple of canes as well, in case too many spurs died.
Working from home
Working at home. Admittedly, on my "Day off". However, assuming that I'm going to work anyway, and it's all on the computer, there are some advantages:
1. Comfort. I can use the more casual furniture and be much more comfortable.
2. My loyal companion is there to keep me company in a good way.
3. No interruptions and derailment. I work much, much more efficiently.
4. I can keep the heating pad going for my multiple aches.
5. It's really more ergonomic.
6. I have my "jungle" to keep my spirits lifted.
7. Even though I've posted it on the internet, my office is MY office, a private place where no one can interfere, evaluate me, pass judgement on my decisions.
8. I love watching the birds at the feeders. Unfortunately, when I grab the camera, they all fly away. So here's just one. It's very relaxing and lifts the spirits, when I see motion from the corner of my visual field, look up, and there are the birds. My workspace faces the window.
9. Did I mention my loyal companion, Charlie?
10. No gas burned getting there.
11. No need to bring meals or eat out.
12. No traffic hassles.
13. When I do break from the issue at hand, it's to do something that regenates me, rather than derails me.
So I don't mind too much, working at home. And I am happy that it's a bit greener than working at work.
1. Comfort. I can use the more casual furniture and be much more comfortable.
2. My loyal companion is there to keep me company in a good way.
3. No interruptions and derailment. I work much, much more efficiently.
4. I can keep the heating pad going for my multiple aches.
5. It's really more ergonomic.
6. I have my "jungle" to keep my spirits lifted.
7. Even though I've posted it on the internet, my office is MY office, a private place where no one can interfere, evaluate me, pass judgement on my decisions.
8. I love watching the birds at the feeders. Unfortunately, when I grab the camera, they all fly away. So here's just one. It's very relaxing and lifts the spirits, when I see motion from the corner of my visual field, look up, and there are the birds. My workspace faces the window.
9. Did I mention my loyal companion, Charlie?
10. No gas burned getting there.
11. No need to bring meals or eat out.
12. No traffic hassles.
13. When I do break from the issue at hand, it's to do something that regenates me, rather than derails me.
So I don't mind too much, working at home. And I am happy that it's a bit greener than working at work.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
My Tomatoes for 2010: first thoughts /catalog
Uh oh. Burpee catalog came. Temptation is SO strong. I think I will be assimilated. Resistance is futile.
With tomatoes, I generally go with the following:
Traditional hybrid - for sentimental reasons, usually Better Boy 72 days.
Heritage Black - usually Cherokee Black or Black Krim, 80 days
Hybrid Yellow - usually Lemon Boy
Traditional Cherry - usually Supersweet 100, 70 days
Those are all highly reliable in my garden. Then, I usually add something new, mix of hybrid and heritage. From the Burpee catalog, here are my current temptations:
BrandyBoy Hybrid - Burpee states, 78 days, Brandywine with disease resistance and productivity added
Northern Exposure, 78 days, bred for cool short summers.
Fourth of July, 49 days, wow, that's early!
Black Pearl, 65 days, hybrid cherry
Red Lightening, 82 days, striped salad tomato, for novelty.
The list may change, but I like the variety, and combination of "old faithful" reliable, tasty varieties that I like plus some experimentation for earliness and novelty.
With tomatoes, I generally go with the following:
Traditional hybrid - for sentimental reasons, usually Better Boy 72 days.
Heritage Black - usually Cherokee Black or Black Krim, 80 days
Hybrid Yellow - usually Lemon Boy
Traditional Cherry - usually Supersweet 100, 70 days
Those are all highly reliable in my garden. Then, I usually add something new, mix of hybrid and heritage. From the Burpee catalog, here are my current temptations:
BrandyBoy Hybrid - Burpee states, 78 days, Brandywine with disease resistance and productivity added
Northern Exposure, 78 days, bred for cool short summers.
Fourth of July, 49 days, wow, that's early!
Black Pearl, 65 days, hybrid cherry
Red Lightening, 82 days, striped salad tomato, for novelty.
The list may change, but I like the variety, and combination of "old faithful" reliable, tasty varieties that I like plus some experimentation for earliness and novelty.
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