Grafting GoldRush Apples Onto Redlove Calypso Espalier. 4 Apr 24.

 I discovered that I had saved some GoldRush apple scion in the refrigerator.  They were in a ziplock, fallen at the back of the dairy drawer.   There was one remaining tier, the 3rd up, to replace on the Redlove Calypso espalier, so I made some grafts.

Where I could find s stem to graft onto, I used cleft grafts.  This is a century - old illustration.  It hasn't changed.

The main thing with this carpentry, is at least one side requires the cambium layers of scion and stock are pressing against each other.  Even better if for both sides, but not required.

There were some locations I thought might be better, but no branches.  For those, I wanted to do a traditional side graft.  An illustration from the 1860s.

I've done this before, but with bud grafting.  That was cherries, in June.  This time it's apple in April.  I had difficulty getting the scion to fit in the slit, even though I was able to expose the cambium layer,  I tore some of the thin bark and cambium and did not wind up with success.  So I treated that area of the branch as a self-graft, placed the layers back together, and wrapped snugly.

Then I went with my earlier idea, and cut a thin tongue in the bark, again exposing the cambium layer.  Insert the scion into that slit,  Wrap snugly, as best I can.

Will they tKe?  Watch and wait.

Up-Potting a Hippeastrum Bulb. 3 Apr 24.

 This Hippeastrum (Amaryllis is the popular name but not accurate) was showy and delightful this winter.  I wonder if I can keep it going for next year?

Given the small pot, it will need up-potting.  I used good potting soil the first time around, instead of that useless stuff they sell with Hippeastrum bulbs.

Since I always inspect the roots, here they are.

The roots look great, despite winding around.  The bulbs are sold without roots, so they are all new.  I didn't traumatize the fleshy roots by unwinding them.  

After.

I forgot to add bone meal.  Later.

TLC for MiniRose (Daniele Kordana?). 3 Apr 24.

Here's the last of the three miniroses, which I think is Daniele Kordana.  It's done with a nice, long run on blooming.

After cleaning up and repotting.

So far I think this project, bare-rooting and planting in good quality potting soil, is right on target.  There are beginning flower buds on three of the five Sunmaid Kordana plants now.   Growth is excellent and they don't dry out suddenly on an almost daily basis like the originals did.  It's more like keeping normal vegetable starts watered.

Before dividing - the original plants.

First I cut off the flowers.  I cut back to a nice looking bud, mostly those two or three nodes below the flower.  I like to cut back so there are some buds for good low branching, but if some buds have started nice growth I keep some of those in place. 

The roots look fine.  Not too crowded and not a lot of winding around the container.

Instead of splitting the roots apart, this time I decided to wash off the soil by swirling the root mass around  in a basin of water.  I think that was more gentle on the roots.  The soil washed off easily with multiple swirlings.

I think it was easier then to separate the plants with minimal root damage.

I chose the most healthy looking plant for the largest container.  I'd like to keep that one as a specimen plant.  I planted the others as I did the Sunmaid Kordana roses, as in the first image.

I also gave each a label.

TLC For Fig Tree. Yellow Jacket Mitigation For Figs. 3 Apr 24.

First the yellow jackets.  They can destroy a fig crop overnight, and often do, if I don't bate and trap.  They send out scouts, who return to the nest with news of a feast.  Figs have to ripen on the trees - it's the only way to have sweet, flavorful figs.  Just when beginning to ripen, they find the figs and destroy them, eating from the inside out,  They are also vicious, and hazardous to be around.

I'm hoping that by beginning now, I can mitigate this year's yellow jacket invasion.  According to Oregon State Extension, Spring elimination of queens can greatly limit the population,

Today, I disassembled and cleaned the yellow jacket traps in the fig grove where I pruned and cleaned up yesterday.

The trees are coming out of dormancy.  Looking at my older blog posts, now is about the usual time.  Breba figs that overwintered are starting to grow, and tip growth is beginning.  Shown are White Sicilian, Carini, Petite negri, Lattarula, and LSU Tiger in that order.    (I should add, there has bern a lot of discussion on line about the true identity of figs that look identical to this variety, and that have the same leaves and growth habit.  There seem to be more fig hobbyists who consider it Violette de Bordeaux.  Also, the original seller is calling it that.  Going forward, that may be my name for it as well. )

Now some   TLC for that little, 2-Year old, Hardy Chicago tree in the same row.   The perennial grasses take over close to the trunk.  I imagine for such a tiny tree, that's inhibitory for growth.  I cleared what I could, then added a couple layers of cardboard.  It will decompose in a year or so.  Meanwhile, it will kill the grasses under it and maintain soil moisture.

The cardboard can catch wind like sails.  A good covering of tree chips will weigh down the cardboard.

I need to touch up a bit.  Some ground maintenance is needed, but basically that's it for a few months in this fig row.

This yellow jacket bait is good for 4 weeks, so does need replacement around 1 May.

Planting Caladium Tubers. 3 Apr 24.

 On a whim, I bought some caladium tubers.  They might be too tropical to grow nicely here.  I enjoy a challenge. 

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I decided to pre-plant in four inch pots.  If / when they grow, I can up-pot them.

Reading about them, I think they will benefit from being started on a warming mat.