Sunday, March 17, 2013
Laburnum Cuttings
Brought the cuttings home to pot in potting soil, and some mycorrhizal inoculantIt's a delicate stage for them. New growth is all white - needs light to make chlorophyll. But not too bright - could burn. And could dry out. Interesting to see what happens.
Front Yard
Saturday, March 16, 2013
Hardwood Cuttings from Trees. Progress Report.
I'm starting to think this propagation method is very good. Not just for figs. Fig cuttings root easily by almost any method. These were prunings I had lying around this winter. I did what I've been doing to jump start fig cuttings. Use cuttings about 6-8 inches long. As thick as practical - pencil thickness seems good. Thinner or thicker seems to work. Make incision through bark and cambium layer using sharp pocket or kitchen knife. Dip in rooting hormone dip-and-grow at 1:10 dilution 1 to 2 minutes. Wrap in moist paper towel. Place into plastic bag and close. Keep in warm place.
Redmond American Linden. These have some callous. They leaked a jelly-like sap for a while. Not much. The root initials look promising. They are also in the "maybe" category, as to whether I'll get trees from them. If the tops grow too fast, they might overwhelm the almost embryonic roots.
These cuttings are from ornamental plum. They have calloused well. There is some top growth. Not sure if roots are developing yet. I think I see root initials. So these are still in the "maybe" category as to whether they will develop into little trees.
Laburnum (golden chain tree) cuttings. These are also a few weeks old. Same method. The top cutting is a "mallet" cutting. It is a small branch. The base is trimmed with some remaining stem from the 2-year growth, trimmed. The bottom cutting is similar, pruned just below the junction with the previous years' growth. The middle cutting is just new wood. All have calloused and are forming roots. Some previous years' growth seems to work best. Small sample size of course. With these, some previous years' cambium seems to help.
Laburnum (golden chain tree) cuttings. These are also a few weeks old. Same method. The top cutting is a "mallet" cutting. It is a small branch. The base is trimmed with some remaining stem from the 2-year growth, trimmed. The bottom cutting is similar, pruned just below the junction with the previous years' growth. The middle cutting is just new wood. All have calloused and are forming roots. Some previous years' growth seems to work best. Small sample size of course. With these, some previous years' cambium seems to help.
Redmond American Linden. These have some callous. They leaked a jelly-like sap for a while. Not much. The root initials look promising. They are also in the "maybe" category, as to whether I'll get trees from them. If the tops grow too fast, they might overwhelm the almost embryonic roots.
Wednesday, March 13, 2013
Ning with Tiller
Monday, March 04, 2013
Pear Grafts
After taking the Home Orchard Society grafting class, I was anxious to try. These are the attempts. This is a russeted Asian pear, Chojuro. I've grafted a nonrusseted variety, unsure cultivar. Purpose is for pollination. Mostly I think it's just cool. This is the nonrusseted Asian pear. Unknown variety, had one pear last year. Grafted another unknown onto it from my home tree, plus 2 Euro pears, Orcas Island and Rescue. I tried to graft near the trunk. Not the best grafts I've seen. We did bench grafting in the class. Learned whip and tongue graft, which took more finesse than I have on the bench. On the tree it would likely have meant a blood sacrifice to the tree god. So I tried the less hazardous but possibly less successful cleft grafting. No loss if they don't take. Pears have a reputation for easy grafting, so maybe.
Labels:
Asian pear,
cleft graft,
grafting,
multigraft,
pear
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