Quick spur of the moment quiche

There was enough pie crust left over to almost fill an 8" pie plate. I didn't want to bother for lunch, so I made a quick quiche using the left over crust. This was pure laziness.

This was too easy to believe. No recipe. Placed broccoli florets, sliced onion, big slices of garlic, and slices of sun dried tomatoes into the crust. I LOVE sun dried tomatoes.

Then used a fork to stir 2 eggs vigorously, with about 1/4 cup water to thin them a little. To the eggs, I added some mozarella from the fridge, about 1/2 cup, and some parmesan cheese, about 1/4 cup. Poured over the broccoli mixture.

The quiche went into the oven on a shelf below the peach pie. It took about 10 monites to make, to it cooked about 10 minutes less. Since it was small, that's all it needed. This was great! That's all there was to it!

Call me "Mr. Pie!" Pie baking is good for the soul. It's a form of meditation and a way to experiment with countless variations. Only a good person can make a pie, I'm sure of it.

Peach pie from home grown peaches! Yum!

There were enough peaches remaining on the tree for a pie. So I made one.

I did not hve success with fresh peach pie last year, so I did more research. The techniques that I think made this one work were using a quick boil the chill to remove the skins, and adding lemon juice to the peaches to prevent browning. I prefer that pies not be too sweet, so the amount of sugar is small. Others might want to lat least double the sugar content.

Some ripe peaches. Home grown organic fresh peaches, right off the tree!

Quick dip in boiling water. Just one minute.

Then a quick dip in ice water. One minute, again.

Then just rub the skin with my thumb, and it slides right off. Who knew it would be so easy!



Then slice up the peaches, and quickly add 2 teaspoons of lemon juice, and mix to coat the peach slices. The lemon juice prevents browning of the peaches.

Now I added 1/4 cup sugar, 3 tbsp quick cooking tapioca, 1/8 tsp salt, 1 tsp cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Most recipes call for butter, but olive oil is healthier and I don't need the extra buttery flavor.

It's all mixed together. Now let it sit 30 minutes. As it happens, it takes about 15 minutes to make the crust. This is the same as my other olive oil crusts in this blog, including the lemon juice for extra flakiness.

Forgot to show the mix in the pie shell, but it looks the same as the mix in the bowl. Added the usual foil, baked 40 minutes at 375. This time the edges didn't brown at all, so I took the foil off at 35 minutes.

I liked this pie best cold. A bit more sugar would make it more appealing for people who like a sweet pie. I can't believe I know how to make a peach pie! It was great!

The "Best" vegetable pies ever!

Last week I drove past a sign that proclaimed, "Estate Sale". I am required by forces of nature to stop at estate sales, and did so. The lady whose estate was being sold had a number of nice pyrex glass baking dishes, including some 8 inch pie plates. Thinking that an 8 inch pie must be less fattening than a 9 inch pie, I bought the 2 8-inch pie plates.

It's not allowed to buy a pie plate without baking a pie, so I promptly did so. In fact, I made two. These are variations on a theme, vegetable pies with a cream-of-something based sauce.

This is the pie crust recipe here. I've made a change that I like. I add 2 teaspoons of lemon juice to the mix. I think this makes for a fluffier crust, something to do with the effect of the citric acid on the olive oil while baking. In fact, it starts to rise before it goes into the oven. As it happened, this made enough crust for both 8-inch pies.

I washed and sliced the cauliflower, placing chunks in the pie crust. Then I added about 1/2 cup of sliced mushrooms, sauteed in olive oil, and 1/2 medium onion, also sauteed in olive oil. That saute really brings out the flavor. Then, placed chunks of sliced garlic throughout the pie, and peppered it with pepper (duh).

Similar for the broccoli pie, except I didn't saute the mushrooms. Instead of garlic, I placed sun dried tomato slices through-out the pie. This pie also contains sauteed onion, about the same amount as the cauliflower pie. Then I peppered it with pepper, too.

Now each gets the sauce. No particular reason for which one got which sauce. FOr the cauliflower pie, I mixed one can of condensed cream of mushroom soup (low calorie) with 1/2 cup of water and one egg, then poured into the pie plate. ALMOST too much, but it did fit. For the broccoli pie, I did the same thing, except using cream of potato soup. I did that because that's what I had on hand. This was too much for this pie, so I spooned out enough to keep it from over-flowing, and placed the extra amount in a small covered dish, sprinkling bread crumbs on top. Basically, a mini casserole.

They both look the same now. I covered the edges with foil, as usual. I keep using the same foil for edges until it crumples. Waste not want not. Then baked 375 degrees for 40 minutes. Did not remove the foil from the edges, I don't think that's needed.

You can tell it's done because the crust has browned slightly, and there is filling bubbling up through crevices. I let it cool, and ate a slice. These were both really, really good. The sun dried tomatoes added a great flavor to the broccoli pie, and by using sauteed mushrooms and onions, the cauliflower pie had a rich, complex flavor. I ate much of the broccoli pie cold, but I liked the cauliflower pie better hot.

These are like a pot pie, but I like them a lot better. Plus, I can select what goes into them, and I think these are healthier due to the olive oil crust, and the fresh vegetables.

What came from the yard? Just the eggs and onions. If I have enough peaches or apples, maybe a fruit pie is next.

Dendrobium phaelenopsis hybrid

Yesterday while I was at the local nursery browsing around, I saw this Dendrobium phaelenopsis hybrid. It's small, windowsill size, nice flower. It had a tag from a local grower, which I thought was cool. When I got it home, I realized there was no hybrid name, annoying but not a big deal.


Illustration via Wikimedia commons, 1901. Lindenia Iconographie des Orchidées. Following Dendrobium info is from the Canadian Orchid Congress, summarized. Probably as good a source of info as any, especially in Northern areas. I edited the instructions for brevity and for my specific conditions, but much is directly from the linked site. There are several reasons why it's hard to find culture info specific to a specific Dendrobium: there are many types, and culture requirements vary; there are many many hybrids; and naming is a mess. I still haven't sorted out whether these are really Vappodes phaelenopsis hybrids. Wikipedia routes searches for Dendrobium phaelenopsis to Vappodes phaelenopsis. Plus, did they really have to give these a species name that is identical to that of an unrelated genus (Phaelenopsis)? Confusion is also noted at orchidculture.com "There is a great deal of confusion surrounding these species, and it will probably continue to be with us for some time. Although these two species have been lumped together at times and are still considered to be synonymous by some authorities, the most recent taxonomic work has them listed as separate species. While very similar to each other, the flowers of D. bigibbum tend to be somewhat smaller, have sepals and petals that are more strongly reflexed, and a lip that is broader and more rounded or notched at its apex. In addition, plants known as D. bigibbum are found in areas nearer the equator and, therefore, require much warmer temperatures, especially during winter." Note that Dendrobium biggibum is an earlier name for Dendrobium phalaenopsis. I think.

*Use a coarse medium. Fir bark mixtures are best (note, the specimens that I bought from Missouri botanical garden, and this one, are in small lava chunks. They drain VERY fast)
*Repot when the growth has reached the edge of the pot or if the
medium is beginning to decompose...Repot as new growths are just starting to form.
*These plants like a rapid drying cycle – grow in the smallest
possible pot.
*Roots should be moist at all times when in active growth. Allow to dry out somewhat as the growth matures and when not actively growing.
*When watering, water thoroughly. (I let water run through the medium each time)
*If hard water is used, water very heavily to flush minerals. Rain water is better (I use rain water).
*Fertilize weakly and frequently with a balanced fertilizer. (I use the Schulz orchid food, 1/4 tsp per gallon, weekly, during active growth. For bloom time and when growth is not active, I either don't fertilize or use a low-nitrogen Grow-more bloom food, also weakly.
*Healthy leaves produce more and bigger flowers:
*Light should be medium to high light levels are appropriate. Leaves should be a light green, not yellowish (too much light) or dark green (too little light). They should be somewhat stiff, not long and floppy (more light needed). A reddish edge to the leaves indicates the light is on the upper boundary of a proper level of light.
*Grow in 2-4 four hours of sunshine on an East, West or South window sill.
*Dendrobiums do best with 60-70% humidity but will grow and bloom at somewhat lower humidity levels. Use humidifier to raise humidity – humidity pans and misting minimally effective. Enclosing plant growing areas is effective
but ensure fresh air and air movement to avoid mold and rot.
*Dendrobium phalaenopsis hybrids are warm growing, with night minimum temperatures of 18°C (65 F) and day maximums of 32°C (90 F). (My range is more like 55 at night and 70 during the day, winter; I may need to keep this plant at work which is warmer) The orchid culture site linked above states "TEMPERATURES: Summer days average 85-86F (29-30C), and nights average 72F (22C), with a diurnal range of 13-14F (7-8C). The diurnal range varies only 3F (2C) all year."
*Dendrobium phalaenopsis may bloom at any time during the year and the flowers last for 4 to 8 weeks.
The orchid culture site also states "D. phalaenopsis is often considered difficult to grow and bloom because it requires high light, warm winter temperatures, and a winter dry season, a combination that is sometimes difficult to provide in a general collection. So we'll see. I better hold of on adding any more to this collection, no need for all leaf and no flower with a lot of frustration in the future. As I often state, "We'll see".

Kitchen Garden. Fall planting for Winter & Spring.

I remember the day the airplanes were diverted into the twin towers. I was post-call an was planting multiplier onions and garlic that day. That's how I remember it's about time to plant them again. It's impossible to forget. Last fall it took a long time to get around to planting them, and I planted in December. About half survived and grew, but not as well as earlier planting. Usually almost all will grow. They can be planted into October, but after that it's getting too cold here to get a good start before the freeze.

This location went to weeds this year. It's a bed on the south side of the house. Closest to the house, I've been trying for many years to get a row of asparagus growing. This year, there actually are multiple, fairly tall (3 to 4 feet) asparagus fronds, and even more smaller ones. I think they will finally be growing. Unfortunately, the bed was let go this year, and full of weeds. I pulled the weeds, added some compost and eggshells, and turned it over with a shovel. This will be the onion and garlic bed for this winter.

Here is the layout. I managed to salvage about 25 medium and large white multiplier onions (also called white potato onions). Planted in the fall, a large one will split into numerous small bulbs. A small one will grow to produce a single large onion the following early summer. They are great for scallions, but I always try to save enough to keep the cycle going.

Not realizing that I actually did manage to salvage some garlic, and had saved the bulbs along with the multiplier onions, I bought 2 garlic bulbs at a local nursery. These were German garlic. This is a great variety, large very strongly flavored cloves. I like it a lot.

The other multiplier is known as "Egyptian Walking Onion". They seem to tolerate any care or neglect. They grow a cluster of small bulbs at the top, where other onions have flowers. That cluster can be planted in the fall or spring. Planted in the fall, they give scallions even before other crops can even be planted. This is the main charm, although the onion bulbs are quite pungent. These were pulled out of the bed that now contains beans, and left to dry out of the sun on the North side of the house, sitting there since mid July. They are starting to shrivel a bit, but still look quite viable. I also have some that are starting to sprout while on the tops of the still-planted bulbs. I separated all of the small starts, and planted about 4 inches apart. They will make great scallions, and I'll save enough for a continuing crop to perpetuate the cycle.

I also planted the large Egyptian Walking Onion bulbs. They will make scallions even sooner than the little sets. This will mean a long season when I can just walk out into the kitchen garden and pull some for a treat.

While digging the onion bed I discovered that we had planted some fingerling potatoes there, and forgot about them. Nice crop.