Today was day off from work.
Pruned more roses. Most of these are either David Austins or cutting - grown "found" varieties with no name. I cut most back to about 18 inches to 2 feet, removed dead stems, and removed old 3rd and 4th year canes and puny little ones. Some authors now state that roses can be pruned back with a hedge clipper to a uniform height, and the range of 3 feet is better than smaller. However, clearing out old growth and twigs, they will be easier to maintain next year. Fewer old stems will mean less carry over of any residual disease. Fewer, more robust stems will mean easier to spray with neem when blackspot hits. Although I didn't spray at all last year. I hope the pruning stunts them a little next year - they were way too big.
Sprayed the genetic dwarf peaches with Lily copper spray. The spray includes an adherent to make the copper stay on the stems. Today was just slightly drizzly, morning only, so most should stay on the stems. I know this is way, way too late by the books. They should have been sprayed in December. My thought now is if the spray reduces peach leaf curl by a bit, I may still get some peaches. Even if PLC is not prevented entirely. As always, we'll see. I may spray again in a few weeks, and again before buds open. Depends on my schedule.
I used up left-over spray on the pear tree, some roses, a cherry, and a fig tree. I don't know if it will be helpful, but I hated to let it go to waste.
We have a lot of apples remaining in the refrigerator. I just ate a Liberty. Surprisingly good. Much better than a commercial apple.
Showing posts with label apple. Show all posts
Showing posts with label apple. Show all posts
Thursday, January 06, 2011
Sunday, January 02, 2011
More New Year's + 1 Pruning
Today I pruned the rest of the grape vines. I pruned them back to 2 to 3 nodes of last year's growth, then thinned out a few of those as well. This leaves about 15 to 20 nodes per vine. If each node gives one bunch of grapes, that's about 65 to 80 bunches of grapes. More than enough for some eating grapes. There was a lot of winter kill, so they may not all bear. That's OK.
I also pruned the columnar apple, North Pole, shortening spurs to keep the columnar shape.
Then I pruned about half of the back yard roses. Some of the David Austin roses were at least twice my height, so about 12 feet tall. Wow! Too tall and too messy, cut them back to about 2 feet. They should come back fine. This is counter to conventional wisdom, that they should be pruned when danger of frost is past. However, they start growing before then even if unpruned, and my neighbors prune midwinter and have good growth, so they should be OK.
The Illinois Everbearing Mulberry got a couple of snips but is too puny to call that pruning. Just enough to guide shaping of the young tree. Last year was it's first and it had it's first "two" mulberries. So this year there may be a few more.
I freel a little better about the yard. It's starting to look more groomed / less messy. That's a good part about winter cleanup.
The brush pile is growing quickly.
I also pruned the columnar apple, North Pole, shortening spurs to keep the columnar shape.
Then I pruned about half of the back yard roses. Some of the David Austin roses were at least twice my height, so about 12 feet tall. Wow! Too tall and too messy, cut them back to about 2 feet. They should come back fine. This is counter to conventional wisdom, that they should be pruned when danger of frost is past. However, they start growing before then even if unpruned, and my neighbors prune midwinter and have good growth, so they should be OK.
The Illinois Everbearing Mulberry got a couple of snips but is too puny to call that pruning. Just enough to guide shaping of the young tree. Last year was it's first and it had it's first "two" mulberries. So this year there may be a few more.
I freel a little better about the yard. It's starting to look more groomed / less messy. That's a good part about winter cleanup.
The brush pile is growing quickly.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Status Report: my Backyard Orchard Culture
Here's Liberty apple. Doesn't require much by way of pruning - the apples keep the growth to a minimum. Unclear if the 'socks' made a difference, we'll see when they ripen.
I was surprised to see that some hazelnuts did set. I thought they passed that stage with no nuts forming. We'll get a few. I pruned the branches back a little to encourage branching at small size.
The sweet cherries were growing out of control! They had 2 to 3 feet of lush growth. I don't fertilize them at all, but they must like the clay soil. Plus, last year I mulched with compost, which is as good as fertilizing. I'll avoid using so much compost in the future.
The same cherries, after pruning. I cut all of the new branches back, to 4 to 6 nodes, which is about 4 to 6 inches. I chopped the pieces and threw them under the trees for mulch, but the area was so weedy, I mowed with the lawnmower. Now the choppings are mulch for the cucumbers. I think I'll plant grass seed this fall. Then I can just mow, and don't need to worry about weeding.Saturday, May 08, 2010
Backyard Orchard
This time of year I feel very excited. We are almost to the statistical last frost date, probably far past it. Small fruits have formed on most of the trees. It's now time to prepare the fruit to optimize the crop.
Strawberries are not tree fruit, so may not count as "orchard". However, they are fruit, and have been very productive in past years. Currently neglected, but blooming like crazy, so I expect a good crop in a few weeks.
Ponderosa peach. This tiny tree is about 1 1/2 feet tall. It blood way to early - while the covering was still in place. It will have a few peaches, so I will get a taste.
I've learned my lesson. Don't be greedy. If a branch has 20 peaches, it won't support them, they'll be late, small, and not as sweet. I can't eat that many, anyway. I've been thinning them to about 4 inches apart. In general, the little branches are about 6 inches long, so I'm leaving one to 2 peaches per branch. That will still mean about 100 peaches per tree, if they all develop. I see in this photo that I missed some, so will need to go out and thin them. Initially I used scizzors to cut off the little peaches, but I found that it's easier to twist them off with my fingers.
You can see that peach leaf curl is present. The late rains, after I removed the covers, resulted in some leaf curl, but not too bad. I lost a few small branchlets on the peach trees, but overall they look great!
Sweet cherries don't need thinning. Each year, they set more fruit. Backyard Orchard Culture definitely works for sweet cherries.
Surefire tart cherry. This is its second year. The fruit set was much better than the sweet cherries, probably due to the later bloom, avoiding frost. There won't be enough for a pie, but we'll get several handfuls to taste.
Hollywood plum. Also in its 2nd season. It's a lot to ask, to get a crop at this point. The prolific flowers gave me a false sense of hope. But none set. Today I pruned, to open the center, and keep it small, the central tenant of backyard orchard culture.
Oh wait - a plum! One isn't much for most people to get excited about, but for me it will be a treat getting to taste it! Cool! The leaf:fruit ration is probably several hundred to one, so there is plenty of photosynthetic surplus to make it juicy and sweet. We'll see.
I wonder if the red leaves will fool the birds, keeping them away from the fruit? I'll cover it soon.
Grapes are getting ready to bloom. Still one of the most reliable and prolific fruits in my yard.
The new apple, Karmijn (see prior entries). Despite having few roots, here it is. I've noted that new fruit trees often have deformed leaves at first. It doesn't bother me, later leaves usually grow nicely. It's mulched with some lawn trimmings.
These small trees may take 3 or 4 years to bear. Gives me something to look forward to. I'm already thinking about what I'll add next Spring - there is room for a couple of columnar trees, such as Golden Sentinel or Scarlet Sentinel. There is still a long time to cogitate over it.
Honeycrisp apple. It had even fewer roots. It's growing. It will need water during the summer, sue to the small root mass. I'm happy to see it grow.
I've been thinning the apples to one per flower cluster. The clusters generally have 4 to 6 blossoms, most of which set fruit, so this means removing 4 or 5 fruitlets per cluster. I might be too early. It will take a while to thin apples on all of the trees. Again, I feel a little concerned I'm starting too early. I've bagged the apples with bags, bought from Raintree. These are like lady's nylons, maybe that's what they used to be! The idea is, the bags keep moths from laying eggs on the forming apples, so the apples won't have worms. It's another "we'll see" situation.
Strawberries are not tree fruit, so may not count as "orchard". However, they are fruit, and have been very productive in past years. Currently neglected, but blooming like crazy, so I expect a good crop in a few weeks.
Ponderosa peach. This tiny tree is about 1 1/2 feet tall. It blood way to early - while the covering was still in place. It will have a few peaches, so I will get a taste.
I've learned my lesson. Don't be greedy. If a branch has 20 peaches, it won't support them, they'll be late, small, and not as sweet. I can't eat that many, anyway. I've been thinning them to about 4 inches apart. In general, the little branches are about 6 inches long, so I'm leaving one to 2 peaches per branch. That will still mean about 100 peaches per tree, if they all develop. I see in this photo that I missed some, so will need to go out and thin them. Initially I used scizzors to cut off the little peaches, but I found that it's easier to twist them off with my fingers.You can see that peach leaf curl is present. The late rains, after I removed the covers, resulted in some leaf curl, but not too bad. I lost a few small branchlets on the peach trees, but overall they look great!
Sweet cherries don't need thinning. Each year, they set more fruit. Backyard Orchard Culture definitely works for sweet cherries.
Surefire tart cherry. This is its second year. The fruit set was much better than the sweet cherries, probably due to the later bloom, avoiding frost. There won't be enough for a pie, but we'll get several handfuls to taste.
Hollywood plum. Also in its 2nd season. It's a lot to ask, to get a crop at this point. The prolific flowers gave me a false sense of hope. But none set. Today I pruned, to open the center, and keep it small, the central tenant of backyard orchard culture.
Oh wait - a plum! One isn't much for most people to get excited about, but for me it will be a treat getting to taste it! Cool! The leaf:fruit ration is probably several hundred to one, so there is plenty of photosynthetic surplus to make it juicy and sweet. We'll see.I wonder if the red leaves will fool the birds, keeping them away from the fruit? I'll cover it soon.
Grapes are getting ready to bloom. Still one of the most reliable and prolific fruits in my yard.
The new apple, Karmijn (see prior entries). Despite having few roots, here it is. I've noted that new fruit trees often have deformed leaves at first. It doesn't bother me, later leaves usually grow nicely. It's mulched with some lawn trimmings.These small trees may take 3 or 4 years to bear. Gives me something to look forward to. I'm already thinking about what I'll add next Spring - there is room for a couple of columnar trees, such as Golden Sentinel or Scarlet Sentinel. There is still a long time to cogitate over it.
Honeycrisp apple. It had even fewer roots. It's growing. It will need water during the summer, sue to the small root mass. I'm happy to see it grow.
I've been thinning the apples to one per flower cluster. The clusters generally have 4 to 6 blossoms, most of which set fruit, so this means removing 4 or 5 fruitlets per cluster. I might be too early. It will take a while to thin apples on all of the trees. Again, I feel a little concerned I'm starting too early. I've bagged the apples with bags, bought from Raintree. These are like lady's nylons, maybe that's what they used to be! The idea is, the bags keep moths from laying eggs on the forming apples, so the apples won't have worms. It's another "we'll see" situation.Saturday, April 17, 2010
Fruit trees: Apple blossoms, tart cherry blooms, pears have set.
Technically, this counts as "Kitchen garden" but I'm keeping the "backyard orchard" in a somewhat separate category. Plus, apple blossoms are ornamental in their own right, even if the trees don't bear fruit. Same for the tree forms, which become increasingly beautiful and gnarled with age, starting fairly early.
Asian pears have set fruit. This is the 3-variety tree planted Spring 2009.
Second variety, different coloration. All 3 have set. Cool! They'll need thinning in a few weeks, I'll keep them to one fruit to a spur.
Golden Delicious. I think this was a semidwarf, not a minidwarf. It is too vigorous. This is the first year with significant blooming. Last year there was one cluster of flowers. This is the best blooming year ever! Cool!
May not look like much, but this was just planted last month. This is Karmijm. We'll see how it looks next year, and the year after. If it blooms, I really should remove any potential fruit, to allow for growth this year. Same for the new Honeycrisp, which as discussed before was little more than a stick with a root. That one will definitely not be allowed to set any fruit this year, if it blooms. 
Jonagold. This is becoming a handsome specimen, with beautiful flowers. Last year was quite fruitful. No every-other-year bearing in this backyard-orchard-culture 'orchard'. About 6 ft tall. 
Liberty. Also increasingly beautiful, year after year. Still only about 5 ft tall.
Northpole. Beautiful specimen! Last summer, fall, winter, I pruned it right, finally! This year I intend to be more diligent about protecting the apples from insects (little socks for the apples), and trim to one apple per spur, and pick them when ripe!
"Surefire" tart cherry (pie cherry). I planted this tree late winter, 2009. It's blooming. How cool is that! Probably not enough this year for a pie, but assuming they set, there'll be enough for a good taste of cherries. Maybe we'll get a pie from in in 2011, at this rate!
Asian pears have set fruit. This is the 3-variety tree planted Spring 2009.
Second variety, different coloration. All 3 have set. Cool! They'll need thinning in a few weeks, I'll keep them to one fruit to a spur.
Golden Delicious. I think this was a semidwarf, not a minidwarf. It is too vigorous. This is the first year with significant blooming. Last year there was one cluster of flowers. This is the best blooming year ever! Cool!
May not look like much, but this was just planted last month. This is Karmijm. We'll see how it looks next year, and the year after. If it blooms, I really should remove any potential fruit, to allow for growth this year. Same for the new Honeycrisp, which as discussed before was little more than a stick with a root. That one will definitely not be allowed to set any fruit this year, if it blooms. This little tree needs a stake placed before the roots get growing too much, so that I don't damage roots. All minidwarf apple trees need a stake for support.
Jonagold. This is becoming a handsome specimen, with beautiful flowers. Last year was quite fruitful. No every-other-year bearing in this backyard-orchard-culture 'orchard'. About 6 ft tall. I need to move the stake so that the tree doesn't lean so much. Not a problem now, but she apples weigh it down, I'd like for it to be better balanced.
Liberty. Also increasingly beautiful, year after year. Still only about 5 ft tall.
Northpole. Beautiful specimen! Last summer, fall, winter, I pruned it right, finally! This year I intend to be more diligent about protecting the apples from insects (little socks for the apples), and trim to one apple per spur, and pick them when ripe!
"Surefire" tart cherry (pie cherry). I planted this tree late winter, 2009. It's blooming. How cool is that! Probably not enough this year for a pie, but assuming they set, there'll be enough for a good taste of cherries. Maybe we'll get a pie from in in 2011, at this rate!
Thursday, March 18, 2010
The order from Raintree Nursery came on Tuesday. Fortunately, the past 2 days have been cool, and I stored them North of the house where it is cooler. Today is Thursday, I unpacked and planted them. As it happens, today is warm and sunny, a beautiful day.
These are the trees. I'm a big fan of Raintree, and most of trees they have sent me have been robust and beautiful, and they have all grown rapidly. This time I do feel some disappointment. The middle tree, a minidwarf Honeycrisp apple, has about 3 roots, about 6 inches long each. Not much more than a partly rooted cutting. If I saw it in the store, I would have either passed on it, or paid half price or less. The tree on the left, a minidwarf Karmijn de Sonneville, is better rooted, I would call it a good specimen. The tree on the right is an Illinois Everbearing Mulberry, and is a handsome specimen with lots of thick, strong looking roots. Even the scrawny Honeycrisp Apple should grow, I hope, and I'll give it a try.
I look at buying fruit trees as: obtaining the genetic potential, in a 'package' that is healthy enough for me to grow. I hope they are large enough to produce in a few years, assuming that they respond well to my growth conditions. Most are grafted, again combining the genetic potential of the rootstock, with that of the scion. I also hope they are disease-free and healthy, without injuries. These trees are uninjured, and they were well packed.
Raintree nurseries describes Honeycrisp as: "outstanding crisp texture...sweet and tart flavors...pick it in September, but it develops its full aromatic flavor if left on the tree until mid October...somewhat scab resistant and has not shown problems with fireblight." (Photo from Raintree)
Karmijn de Sonneville is described by Raintree as: intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland...highest in both sugars and acids...triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan...so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. (Photo from Raintree)
Raintree describes Illinois Everbearing Mulberry as "sometimes starts producing the first year...bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide...berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name....self-fertile (photo from Raintree). CFRG discusses mulberries, stating "M. alba X M. rubra...1958. Black, nearly seedless fruit large...very long, averaging 12 per ounce. Flavor good to very good, very sweet, considered best by by many. Matures over a long season. Tree vigorous and somewhat dwarfed, extremely hardy and productive."
This is the same variety, picture from Starks Brothers Nursery.
Plant expert Arthur Jacobson states: "few fruit trees in fact are so easily neglected without crop loss...mulberries fall when ripe, and with a splat notify the world that if they be not eaten fresh, forget it. Marketing mulberries is therefore difficult... Many people... cannot bide the thought of stains --mulberry juice is dark and persistent to an infamous degree...plant your 'Illinois Everbearing' tree well away from paving, patios or walks. Then, beginning the very first year, you can enjoy its fruit all summer"
For some reason, water that is set out for cats, chickens, or being used to soak trees is much tastier than water that is poured from the same faucet for dogs. No problem. I soaked the trees several hours before planting.
Choosing the spot for the mulberry. This is the spot where cucumbers grew last year on their tower. This year cucumbers will be in the front yard. I like to stand back and walk around and view from different angles before planting.
Planted, watered in, and pruned back to about 2.5 feet. This tree will be grown by the Backyard Orchard Culture method, with intense summer pruning. Most of my trees were cut back at the same height, and it's working well.
Karmijn, planted and watered in. The hole was dug and prepared a while back, so this was an easy task.
Same for Honeycrisp.
These are the trees. I'm a big fan of Raintree, and most of trees they have sent me have been robust and beautiful, and they have all grown rapidly. This time I do feel some disappointment. The middle tree, a minidwarf Honeycrisp apple, has about 3 roots, about 6 inches long each. Not much more than a partly rooted cutting. If I saw it in the store, I would have either passed on it, or paid half price or less. The tree on the left, a minidwarf Karmijn de Sonneville, is better rooted, I would call it a good specimen. The tree on the right is an Illinois Everbearing Mulberry, and is a handsome specimen with lots of thick, strong looking roots. Even the scrawny Honeycrisp Apple should grow, I hope, and I'll give it a try.I look at buying fruit trees as: obtaining the genetic potential, in a 'package' that is healthy enough for me to grow. I hope they are large enough to produce in a few years, assuming that they respond well to my growth conditions. Most are grafted, again combining the genetic potential of the rootstock, with that of the scion. I also hope they are disease-free and healthy, without injuries. These trees are uninjured, and they were well packed.
Raintree nurseries describes Honeycrisp as: "outstanding crisp texture...sweet and tart flavors...pick it in September, but it develops its full aromatic flavor if left on the tree until mid October...somewhat scab resistant and has not shown problems with fireblight." (Photo from Raintree)
Karmijn de Sonneville is described by Raintree as: intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland...highest in both sugars and acids...triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan...so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. (Photo from Raintree)
Raintree describes Illinois Everbearing Mulberry as "sometimes starts producing the first year...bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide...berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name....self-fertile (photo from Raintree). CFRG discusses mulberries, stating "M. alba X M. rubra...1958. Black, nearly seedless fruit large...very long, averaging 12 per ounce. Flavor good to very good, very sweet, considered best by by many. Matures over a long season. Tree vigorous and somewhat dwarfed, extremely hardy and productive."
This is the same variety, picture from Starks Brothers Nursery.Plant expert Arthur Jacobson states: "few fruit trees in fact are so easily neglected without crop loss...mulberries fall when ripe, and with a splat notify the world that if they be not eaten fresh, forget it. Marketing mulberries is therefore difficult... Many people... cannot bide the thought of stains --mulberry juice is dark and persistent to an infamous degree...plant your 'Illinois Everbearing' tree well away from paving, patios or walks. Then, beginning the very first year, you can enjoy its fruit all summer"
For some reason, water that is set out for cats, chickens, or being used to soak trees is much tastier than water that is poured from the same faucet for dogs. No problem. I soaked the trees several hours before planting.
Choosing the spot for the mulberry. This is the spot where cucumbers grew last year on their tower. This year cucumbers will be in the front yard. I like to stand back and walk around and view from different angles before planting.
Planted, watered in, and pruned back to about 2.5 feet. This tree will be grown by the Backyard Orchard Culture method, with intense summer pruning. Most of my trees were cut back at the same height, and it's working well.I have not seen mulberries grown by this method, but I don't see any reason not to try. It will be easy to cover with netting to keep the birds off - and birds are a reason that some people quit growing this fruit.
I will try to grow the pruned portion as well, as a cutting. If it grows, it may make a nice gift. CFRG states: "No special pruning techniques are needed after the branches have been trained to a sturdy framework...can be kept to a tidy form by developing a set of main branches, and then pruning laterals to 6 leaves in July in order to develop spurs near the main branches..not advisable to prune the trees heavily since the plant is inclined to bleed at the cuts. Cuts of more than two inches in diameter generally do not heal and should be avoided at all cost. The bleeding will be less severe if the tree is pruned while it is dormant." Mulberries are related to figs, and I suspect that similar issues apply.
Karmijn, planted and watered in. The hole was dug and prepared a while back, so this was an easy task.
Saturday, January 09, 2010
Garden Log: early pre-prep for new apple trees.
Not much to report.
I dug out 2 2-ft diameter circles of sod in the front yard. These spots are in preparation for the superdwarf apple trees that should come via mail order in a month. I mixed in some vegetable garden soil, and threw the old sod onto the veggie patch.
Now it can "cure" a month and will be ready when the trees arrive. I may mix in some additional organic matter, although my own compost is in a waiting mode due to cold.
I dug out 2 2-ft diameter circles of sod in the front yard. These spots are in preparation for the superdwarf apple trees that should come via mail order in a month. I mixed in some vegetable garden soil, and threw the old sod onto the veggie patch.
Now it can "cure" a month and will be ready when the trees arrive. I may mix in some additional organic matter, although my own compost is in a waiting mode due to cold.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Neck Pain / Daydreaming about garden chores
Last week I developed a neck pain, typical for disk protrusion. This is like a sensation of toothache, extending down to the right hand, and numbness in 2 fingers. It should gradually improve, I know that. Meanwhile, it is severe enough to occupy my thoughts at all moments.
Trying to daydream a bit to get my mind off from this development. Jan 1st is usually pruning day for grapes. I hope it's better by then.
Also still need to to some yard cleanup, neglected like a lot of things this year.
Basically, 2009 was not so great. The backyard orchard did fairly well, but many other aspects of the yard were neglected, and other parts of life left to languish. I hope that 2010 will be better. We can always hope. I can resolve not to keep putting off the good things in life, to take care of today's "crises" and demands, but I already know how that will go.
I got the winter onions planted 3 weeks ago. Garlic still not planted. Last week temp dropped to 12 F in the backyard - I think that's the coldest day in my yard in 10 years.
Typing is painful too, so will stop now. Need to keep thinking about new projects - ordered trees, Illinois Mulberry, Karmijn de Sonnaville apple (highly flavored Dutch variety), Belmac apple (disease resistant Mac-type apple) and maybe, if lucky, a taste of fruit from the 1-year old trees that I planted last winter.
Karmijn de Sonnaville Apple(from Raintree): This intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland measures the highest in both sugars and acids. A triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan, it is the favorite of many, however, it is so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. Put this excellent winter keeper in a box when it ripens in mid October and wait about a month for the complex mellow flavors to start shining through. A vigorous grower and somewhat scab resistant...
Belmac Apple(from Raintree): This wonderful new productive all purpose Canadian cultivar combines flavor and keeping ability with cold and disease resistance. The sweet, medium to large deep red apples ripen in late September/early October and keep three months or more. Like its parent Spartan, it has a delicious sweet/tart McIntosh flavor. It resists scab, mildew, and cedar apple rust. It thrives in eastern Canada and has also proven a winner in Western Washington.. Bred by Dr. Shahrokh Khanizadeh in Quebec and introduced in 1996.
Illinois Everbearing Mulberry (from Raintree): (Morus alba x rubra) This grafted tree is hardy to -30 deg.F. It sometimes starts producing the first year after planting and bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide that look like elongated blackberries. The fruit has a delicious distinctive flavor. The berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name. The fruit is red and turns black when ripe. Illinois Everbearing will grow to 35 feet tall but it is easily pruned and kept much smaller. Each is self-fertile.
As with the rest of the yard, These will be trained and pruned according to the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method. The apples are on super-dwarfing M27 rootstock. I haven't seen the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method applied to mulberries - in fact, I've so rarely seen mulberries, I don't quite know what to expect. But so far, the method is working out well for the other trees, so I think it should work for these as well. Plus, keeping the mulberry pruned to small size should allow for netting to prevent excessive bird-thievery.
Trying to daydream a bit to get my mind off from this development. Jan 1st is usually pruning day for grapes. I hope it's better by then.
Also still need to to some yard cleanup, neglected like a lot of things this year.
Basically, 2009 was not so great. The backyard orchard did fairly well, but many other aspects of the yard were neglected, and other parts of life left to languish. I hope that 2010 will be better. We can always hope. I can resolve not to keep putting off the good things in life, to take care of today's "crises" and demands, but I already know how that will go.
I got the winter onions planted 3 weeks ago. Garlic still not planted. Last week temp dropped to 12 F in the backyard - I think that's the coldest day in my yard in 10 years.
Typing is painful too, so will stop now. Need to keep thinking about new projects - ordered trees, Illinois Mulberry, Karmijn de Sonnaville apple (highly flavored Dutch variety), Belmac apple (disease resistant Mac-type apple) and maybe, if lucky, a taste of fruit from the 1-year old trees that I planted last winter.
Karmijn de Sonnaville Apple(from Raintree): This intensely flavored red russetted apple from Holland measures the highest in both sugars and acids. A triploid cross of Cox's Orange Pippin and Jonathan, it is the favorite of many, however, it is so highly flavored and aromatic that it overwhelms some tastes when just off the tree. Put this excellent winter keeper in a box when it ripens in mid October and wait about a month for the complex mellow flavors to start shining through. A vigorous grower and somewhat scab resistant...
Belmac Apple(from Raintree): This wonderful new productive all purpose Canadian cultivar combines flavor and keeping ability with cold and disease resistance. The sweet, medium to large deep red apples ripen in late September/early October and keep three months or more. Like its parent Spartan, it has a delicious sweet/tart McIntosh flavor. It resists scab, mildew, and cedar apple rust. It thrives in eastern Canada and has also proven a winner in Western Washington.. Bred by Dr. Shahrokh Khanizadeh in Quebec and introduced in 1996.
Illinois Everbearing Mulberry (from Raintree): (Morus alba x rubra) This grafted tree is hardy to -30 deg.F. It sometimes starts producing the first year after planting and bears an abundance of sweet, highly flavored fruit, 1-1/2 inches long x 1/2 inch wide that look like elongated blackberries. The fruit has a delicious distinctive flavor. The berries ripen continuously throughout July, August, and September, hence its name. The fruit is red and turns black when ripe. Illinois Everbearing will grow to 35 feet tall but it is easily pruned and kept much smaller. Each is self-fertile.
As with the rest of the yard, These will be trained and pruned according to the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method. The apples are on super-dwarfing M27 rootstock. I haven't seen the "Backyard Orchard Culture" method applied to mulberries - in fact, I've so rarely seen mulberries, I don't quite know what to expect. But so far, the method is working out well for the other trees, so I think it should work for these as well. Plus, keeping the mulberry pruned to small size should allow for netting to prevent excessive bird-thievery.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Preventive measure: Tanglefoot for ants and aphids
Every year, I discover ants in the figs. It's not too bad - slice open and wash them out. If you miss a few, the ants have a nice crunchy texture and nutty flavor. However, the ants carry fungal spores, and it seems that the ant-infested figs also spoil before they reach their ultimate sweetness. Every year, I tell myself that "next year" I'll prevent the ant infestation.
Same with the cherries. Every summer, the leaves develop massive black cherry aphid infestations. I suspect that the ants cultivate the aphids. AFTER I see them, I get out the tanglefoot, but by then a lot of damage is done.
So this year WILL BE DIFFERENT! I actually did remember. What's up with that! Tanglefoot is great at stopping the ants from climbing the trees, and no toxic chemicals.
The instructions state to wrap the tree tightly with plastic, before applying the tanglefoot. I cut wide strips from plastic grocery store bags. These have enough stretch to make snug, bark-tight bands. They also tear quite easily, so there is no risk of girdling the tree with them. They start to deteriorate in about a year, which is time for the new coating.
I use a disposable plastic knife to apply the Tanglefoot. It's very gooey. Next to impossible to wash out of clothing.
I applied the same treatment to the pears, apples, cherries, and figs. The reason for also applying to the apples and pears is to reduce spread of disease by aphids.
Same with the cherries. Every summer, the leaves develop massive black cherry aphid infestations. I suspect that the ants cultivate the aphids. AFTER I see them, I get out the tanglefoot, but by then a lot of damage is done.
So this year WILL BE DIFFERENT! I actually did remember. What's up with that! Tanglefoot is great at stopping the ants from climbing the trees, and no toxic chemicals.
The instructions state to wrap the tree tightly with plastic, before applying the tanglefoot. I cut wide strips from plastic grocery store bags. These have enough stretch to make snug, bark-tight bands. They also tear quite easily, so there is no risk of girdling the tree with them. They start to deteriorate in about a year, which is time for the new coating.
I use a disposable plastic knife to apply the Tanglefoot. It's very gooey. Next to impossible to wash out of clothing.I applied the same treatment to the pears, apples, cherries, and figs. The reason for also applying to the apples and pears is to reduce spread of disease by aphids.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Backyard Orchard
Despite the Orchard Mason Bees, I've been diligent about playing 'bumble bee' myself with a small paintbrush, transferring pollen among different varieties of cherry, or pear, or peach, or apple. The peach anbd cherry ova are starting to swell, giving me hope for plentiful fruit from each. The aprium had massive die-off (again) of branches after blooming. Unclear why. Blossoms are 'almost' open from the small graft I added to Liberty apple 2 years ago. Apricot did not set fruit - not too surprising, it's only 2 years old.
Embryonic sweet cherries. I'm starting to get excited!
Embryonic peaches. I'm starting to get very excited! Also a few on the Trilite "Peach-plum" hybrid - in it's 2nd year, so I'll cross my fingers. So far - virtually no peach leaf curl. Pray to the peach gods!
North pole apple in bloom. I over-pruned the stubby branches last winter, because they were too long. It still promises a big bowl of apples if the coddling moths dont get them. This is a different style of 'backyard orchard culture' tree. It occupies a very small garden footprint, growitn as a column rather than spreading out.
Liberty apple on M27. This root stock keeps the tree ultra-small. Very pretty, even if it didn't get apples, but it's quite fruitful. This is an example of a 'backyard orchard culture' tree that barely needs pruning - it just stays small.
This multigraft pear is being maintained at under 7 feet tall. This year there are also lots of blooms - quite pretty. It had a couple dozen pears last year. This year it is near it's maximum size for backyard orchard culture, so I'll be challenged to prune carefully this summer to maintain size and still keep it fruiting.
Embryonic sweet cherries. I'm starting to get excited!
Embryonic peaches. I'm starting to get very excited! Also a few on the Trilite "Peach-plum" hybrid - in it's 2nd year, so I'll cross my fingers. So far - virtually no peach leaf curl. Pray to the peach gods!
North pole apple in bloom. I over-pruned the stubby branches last winter, because they were too long. It still promises a big bowl of apples if the coddling moths dont get them. This is a different style of 'backyard orchard culture' tree. It occupies a very small garden footprint, growitn as a column rather than spreading out.
Liberty apple on M27. This root stock keeps the tree ultra-small. Very pretty, even if it didn't get apples, but it's quite fruitful. This is an example of a 'backyard orchard culture' tree that barely needs pruning - it just stays small.
This multigraft pear is being maintained at under 7 feet tall. This year there are also lots of blooms - quite pretty. It had a couple dozen pears last year. This year it is near it's maximum size for backyard orchard culture, so I'll be challenged to prune carefully this summer to maintain size and still keep it fruiting.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Time for some grafting
Apple buds are barely beginning to swell. Two weeks ago I cut some sticks from my Dad's 2 apple trees, which I wanted to use for scoins to add to a dwarf apple in my yard. Last year, I used some branches of a neighbor's apple tree, which overhangs into my yard. As I remember, I grafted about 10 or 12 scoins onto branches of a 5 year old ultra dwarf (M27) Golden Delicious, which had never borne fruit. Of those attempts, 2 grafts definitely took, 2 more might have (the buds that grew are right at the grafting point, and I cant tell whether they are from the original tree or the graft). I used the reverse saddle graft method as shown in the video below. The reason for using that method is that, for a novice like me, it seemed like the easiest to cut and match the grafts.
Yesterday I made 20 small grafts onto the tree from my Dad's 2 apple trees. Unknown variety, he thought one might be a Delicious. Unfortunately, they had a day-long trip at room temp to get here, so may not be viable. The cambium layer was green and soft, so still worth a try. I may also have made a mistake, tying the graft together with dental floss, which I learned from a rose-grafting video. They are covered with teflon plumbing tape. We'll see.
Here is the result of my first attempt at grafting, 2 Springs ago. A a complete novice, I just cut the scion and base tree stems to match, tied them together with electrical tape, and that's it. This was the only attempt at the time. It grew that summer, and last summer. Looks like there might be a flower bud at the tip. I don't know the scion variety. The main tree is Liberty on M27 ultradwarfing rootstock.
Here is one result from last Spring, grafting from neighbor tree prunings for scions, onto Golden Delicious on M27. This scion grew like crazy, adding branches and about 16 inches of growth. One branch might have a flower bud.
Here is the other definite 'take' from the neighbor tree onto the Golden Delicious. Again, it grew well. The tip was frozen, so I pruned it back a little. It won't bloom this Spring but should grow as well as any other branch. This may be a tip-bearing, rather than spur-bearing, variety, so I don't want to get carried away with too many grafts.
Here is the final result. A bit odd looking. I'm thinking that I'll need to remove the wrappings in about one month. By then I hope to know if they 'took'.
Reverse saddle grafting multiple varieties onto an apple tree:
Yesterday I made 20 small grafts onto the tree from my Dad's 2 apple trees. Unknown variety, he thought one might be a Delicious. Unfortunately, they had a day-long trip at room temp to get here, so may not be viable. The cambium layer was green and soft, so still worth a try. I may also have made a mistake, tying the graft together with dental floss, which I learned from a rose-grafting video. They are covered with teflon plumbing tape. We'll see.
Here is the result of my first attempt at grafting, 2 Springs ago. A a complete novice, I just cut the scion and base tree stems to match, tied them together with electrical tape, and that's it. This was the only attempt at the time. It grew that summer, and last summer. Looks like there might be a flower bud at the tip. I don't know the scion variety. The main tree is Liberty on M27 ultradwarfing rootstock.
Here is one result from last Spring, grafting from neighbor tree prunings for scions, onto Golden Delicious on M27. This scion grew like crazy, adding branches and about 16 inches of growth. One branch might have a flower bud.
Here is the other definite 'take' from the neighbor tree onto the Golden Delicious. Again, it grew well. The tip was frozen, so I pruned it back a little. It won't bloom this Spring but should grow as well as any other branch. This may be a tip-bearing, rather than spur-bearing, variety, so I don't want to get carried away with too many grafts.
Here is the final result. A bit odd looking. I'm thinking that I'll need to remove the wrappings in about one month. By then I hope to know if they 'took'.Reverse saddle grafting multiple varieties onto an apple tree:
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Kitchen Garden Log
The workload continues unabated. I can't do much in the garden. In some ways it's on autopilot, except for watering.
Jonagold - this is the first year for some apples.
Mesclun, seeds planted late summer.
Scepter'ed Isle, 8 feet tall.
Hey, wait a minute! Another chance at the epiphyllum.
This cayenne pepper continues to produce. Nice and hot!
Beans, seeds planted late summer.
Canadace grape. The color doesn't come true wtih the flash, it's more red in natural light.
A throwaway chrysanthemum. I left it in the veggie bed for the summer.
Hibiscus. First flower.
Jonagold - this is the first year for some apples.
Mesclun, seeds planted late summer.
Scepter'ed Isle, 8 feet tall.
Hey, wait a minute! Another chance at the epiphyllum.
This cayenne pepper continues to produce. Nice and hot!
Beans, seeds planted late summer.
Canadace grape. The color doesn't come true wtih the flash, it's more red in natural light.
A throwaway chrysanthemum. I left it in the veggie bed for the summer.
Hibiscus. First flower.
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