Flowers and Some Honeybees. 7.28.2020

This is kind of prime season for a lot of summer flowers. Some are volunteers or perennials, some are grown from seeds and a couple from transplants.

Volunteer Cosmos.  Very pretty white.  7.28.2020

Tigridia, survived the winter and now blooming. m 7.28.2020

Dahlia.  I think this was a tuber in a box at Winco this winter.  7.28.2020

Shirley Poppies.  These seeds were a couple of years old.   First time growing them.  Honeybees love them.  7.28.2020

I grew these Echinacea from seeds a few years ago.  I didn't know if they would survive.  They did.  7.28.2020

I grew this rose from a cutting about 15 years ago.  I forget the name.  7.20.2020

These gladiolus were from a box at Winco.  They should survive the winter, so I"ll leave them there.  7.28.2020

Yellow Cosmos, a volunteer among the squashes.  7.28.2020

Another Dahlia from a grocery store box.   7.28.2020

Zinnia from a 6-pack.  I had trouble getting the seedlings to grow this year and something ate them.  6.28.2020

Another zinnia from that six pack.  6.28.2020

Another Shirley poppy full of honeybees.  6.28.2020

French marigolds from an old seed packet.  7.28.2020

African Marigolds from an old seed packet.  So far they don't look great.  7.28.2020

Another rose I grew from a cutting about 15 years ago.  7.28.2020

What's Blooming. 6.28.16

Marigods

Crocosmia

Milkweed

Potato Onion

Roses

Classic Red Rose

Potato Onion

Chinese Chives

Overwintered Pelargoniums from Cuttings

Some flowers. 6.9.16

Buddleia "Miss Ruby"  6.9.16

Buddleia "Miss Ruby".  6.9.16

Daylily, unknown variety.  6.9.16

Potatoes in bloom.  6.9.16

Roses.  6.9.16

Daylily, unknown variety.  6.9.16

New Starts. Fig trees. Carnations. Roses. 7.12.14

Today I planted some carnation seeds for next year.  We will see if they grow.  It's interesting starting seeds in July, but that seems right for perennial flowers that bloom the second year.  Starting plants for next year is either a suspension of uncertainty, or an expression of a type of hope - that next year will come and I will be here to enjoy.🐝

I had 3 fig cuttings in the fridge.  It was either start them, throw away, or leave them there untill the apocalypse.  So I rinsed them and placed  in moist paper towels in plastic bags.  They look reasonably green and viable.  These cuttings were wrapped in moist paper towels and plastic wrap, still moist and not rotten or moldy.  Probably there since April.  This is the last of staring new fig varieties.  These were Ventura and O'Rourke.

All of the freeze-killed fig trees are back from the dead.  The last was Atreano. Now about 2 foot tall from the roots.  No fertilizer.  See if they do better next winter.  Very lush growth on most.  

I gave away a Hardy Chicago start.  Very happy to find it a home.  🏡  Its mid July now.  No more fertilizer for any of the fig tree new starts.

 

Pencil-size pruning from healthy, vigorous rose bush.

Most of the leaflets are pruned off.

 This is my experiment to start some new roses.  It arose not out of wanting more rose bushes, but because I had left over Dip-And-Grow and didn't want to waste it.  And I am in the mood to try cuttings.

Roses can be easy to grow from cuttings.  I usually start them in winter from vigorous appearing dormant growth.  I have also grown roses from a bouquet, that someone brought into work, mid summer, and from a roadside bush about to meet the bulldozer.

These are mostly from unnamed varieties that I grew from cuttings a decade ago.

Incision to expose cambium.

5 seconds in Dip-And-Grow

Wrap lower part in wet paper towel.

 It's an attempt to use the fig method, which works very well for me.  The main difference is, this is Summer wood, while the fig cuttings are from dormant wood.

1.  I pruned sections about pencil-thick and pencil-long, or a little smaller, from this year's growth.

2.   I removed all leaflets, except the first couple in each leaf.  The reason is, I wanted to leave a little for photosynthesis, but not enough to draw more water than the rootless cutting can absorb.

3.  I made an incision in the lower section, where I want roots to grow.   The incision is made with a sharp knife, through the cambium layer.  Rose wood has a waxy layer, that may inhibit absorption of hormone.   Making the incision also exposes the cambium, which may respond by making callous.  Callous is basically a stem - cell type that can produce roots or vascular tissue, but not usually buds or leaves.  

4.  Dip in rooting hormone, 5 seconds.

5.  Wrap in moist to wet paper towel.  The paper towel is sterile, so will not contribute to rotting of the cutting.  Moisture content is easy to manage.  The white paper is easily inspected for mold and mildew, and easily replaced if those grow.  When roots form, the paper towel is easy to removed, almost falls apart on its own, but wont cause damage if left in the growing medium to compost itself when the roots are growing.

6.  The cutting is placed in a plastic bag.  I blow up the plastic bag, so there is only minimal contact with the leaves, to reduce infection of the leaf with rot causing organisms.  This makes a nice humidity chamber for the cutting, which should not require any watering until it starts growing and is removed.

7.  I placed the plastic bags in a warm room.  Easy to find in July, my house is not air conditioned.  The shade is closed so there is not direct sunlight.

8.  Now wait and see.  If the paper towel becomes moldy, I remove it, rinse the stem, and replace with fresh wet paper towel.  This is mostly the same as I do for figs.  I have never done this for roses, so they might grow and might not.

My grandfather's sisters grew hybrid tea roses by starting cuttings directly in their rose bed.  They cut sections, and stuck them into the soil.  They covered the cuttings using a mason jar, to create a miniature green-house for each cutting.  That was in the 1950s and 1960s, but I imagine they learned that from previous generations much earlier. 🌹

Place into plastic bag, blow up, crimp top.

Incubate in warm location out of direct sun.

Some more roses

"Fair Bianca" is a David Austin rose. Pure, pure white. So white it's difficult to photograph. The fragrance reminds me of Mme. Hardy. Spicy. This rose has been off to a slow start, partly due to raspberries that over run it. I need to be more diligent. It's a beautiful and beautifully-scented rose.

Tranquility, not an Austin but 'almost'. Also really beautiful, the palest pink possible without being white. Wide open, many petaled rose, spicy fragrance. In my garden it tends to grow tall, about 6 feet.

Sceptered Isle, an Austin rose. It gets up to 10 feet or more. Nice rose, pretty, can't go wrong but I think I need to find a more roomy place for it.

Evelyn, another David Austin rose. Not too prolific here, but tolerates the dry summer and the flowers are large, unique and fragrant.

Happy Child, also a David Austin rose. Nice color. To me it's a tea-rose fragrance, unlike a lot of Austins that have a spicy fragrance.  I moved it last winter, wondered if it would survive. It did.

Roses in bloom

A random rose in the garden. This started out as a little grocery store potted rose. No name. It just quietly does its thing, not demanding much attention.

I think this is old garden rose, Damask-type, "Ville de Bruxelles". I've moved it a couple of times. Now it's about to be overtaken by a rhubarb plant, but I think the rhubarb will be the plant to move this time. I gave it a lot of fish emulsion this spring - probably why it's so lush now. Blooming like crazy.

Roses are in full bloom

The David Austin roses are amazing now. These are Tamara (aprocot colored), Tranquility (not an Austin, this is from Heritage roses, white/pink), Sceptere'd Isle (peach) and Fair Bianca (white). All of the roses responded well to the severe pruning that I gave them earlier this year. That means the pruning was OK.

Fruit and Rose Bed Renovation

Front border "Fruit & Rose Bed". Actually, as many lilacs as roses. They are starting to come into their own, closest to the curb. As the roses reach their life span, the lilacs will fill in. Weeds pulled, although I know there are still grass roots under the surface. Still, looking a lot better. Compost is added around the lilacs and roses. Over the next week or two, I'm planning to add bark nuggets to the currently bare areas.

Side view, showing the completed, mulched areas as well. Getting closer... That hardy Windmill Palm is 8 years old. I trimmed the lower leaves, to make it look more "palm-like". It's a good, low maintenance, low water demand tree for this area.

A little progress.

As discussed, the Stanley plum and Montmorency cherry are in the ground now. I cleaned up about 200 more square feet of front border. Probably 1,000 square feet done, 500 to go, my wild guess. Moved a couple of roses and a peony to more convenient spots. There was also a cluster of Chinese chives that I saved from my parent's yard a few years ago, that I had grown from seeds 40 years ago. Moved them to a slightly better spot where I can keep an eye on them. Another case of Darwin at work - I did my best, but if they don't survive this move, the've taken their place with the dodo bird as far as my yard is concerned. I think the roses will make it but digging up the peony involved slicing through some huge tubers. It was unavoidable. My guess is it will sulk for a year then resume former blooming.

Pulled away a lot of the creeping phlox. The idea with that groundcover was it would keep weeds away. Instead, it sheltered crabgrass and other grassy weeds. So I'm pulling it all up.

I gave the blueberries and rhododendrons a scoop of Whitney's organic acid shrub fertilizer, and mixed with the compost mulch.

Roses have an inch of growth. Chinese chives are a few inches tall. Pussy willow is blooming. Stone fruit buds are swelling. As I type it's raining like crazy.

Winter Kitchen Garden Chores.

Nice place to build a nest. Even the most dedicated kitty cat can't get through the mess of rose thorns. The roses will need pruning but that's not urgent yet. The nest will go then - I think they build a new one each year.

This was Jan 1st before I started cleaning up the rose & fruit bed. I felt bad about letting it become such a mess last year.
Looking at this, I wondered if I could get it cleaned up. What a mess.
Over the past couple of weeks, I've pruned all of the roses (mainly on Jan 1st) and raked out the weeds. Charlie may not approve. He likes messes. But he tolerates my idiosyncrasies. Then this weekend, a layer of bark nuggets except the area around the raspberries.
Behind the apple tree, the " yellow everbearing raspberry "Fallgold" was still a mess. These are great raspberries. They started as a small grocery store bare root start. Now they are starting to take over their neighborhood.
My photo is bad. I trimmed off the tops at about the top of the photo. Removed one clump and moved it to a better spot on the opposite side, more in the direction where I wanted them to grow. Pulled up about half of the canes, concentrating on pulling up the scrawniest ones. These are "ever bearing". They bear early summer on the canes that grew last summer and fall. I shortened these a little because they bore at the tips last summer, an once a node has produced fruit, it's done. Below that level, they'll grow branches at each node, and those branches will bear fruit. Once they have done the second fruiting, they are done. So I also removed all of the spent canes from last year. Much tidier now. Now to head off to the bark mulch place and finish this garden bed, so it's ready for Spring. I feel a bit better now.

More:
I hauled another 3/4 yard of medium bark nuggets, spread them on the rest of the middle mini-orchard/rose bed, one side border, and some under a fig tree that I cleaned underneath first. This is already a better and earlier start than next year. Still lots to do however.

For the container gardens, I cleaned up the surface on 2 additional barrels. I planted seeds, a mini-ball shaped carrot ("Parisian Market"), more mesclun, lettuce mix ("Bon Vivant Blend"), a Chinese greens mix. They may not grow, because the seeds were old (1 to 3 years) and because, after all, it's only January. On the other hand, some seeds can last for years (I've blogged on that before, and tested some last year), and it doesn't matter if they take a month or more to come up. Plus, they may be hardier for being planted in the winter and allowed to grow with the weather. Plenty of weeds are already sprouting, and some greens are just a few steps removed from "weed". If they don't sprout in, say, a month, I'll buy some new seeds and try again.