Friday, April 15, 2016

Grafting Progress Report. Persimmons breaking Dormancy. 4.14.16

Graft Progress.  NOID Asian pear on Maxie. 4.14.16
 These Asian and American pear whip-and-tongue grafts were done about mid Feb, so now at 2 months.  I grafted early beacuse I thought Spring might arrive early.  The Asian variety is growing the fastest, and the American variety is close behind.  The vivid green color stands out against the reddish leaf color of the Maxie hybrid pear understock.

I give the early pear grafting experiment a success rating.  I've read that pears are the easiest fruit to graft, with apples coming in second.  Even so, it's a very rewarding project.

As pear pollenizers, these will likely need 2 to 3 years to bloom.   I have not seen pear grafts bloom one their second leaf, and some not on their third leaf.

Graft progress.  "Rescue" pear graft at 2 months.  4.15.16

New whip/tongue grafts.  "Chocolate" persimmon on Saijo stock.  4.15.16

 I read that persimmons are more difficult to graft, and need some special considerations.  It helps to have understock that is in active growth.  I also read that they should have protection from sun, so that the scion does not dry out before it takes.  We have temps in the 80s predicted within a few days.  I obtained scion for the persimmon variety, "Chocolate", at the Home Orchard Society scion exchange, and kept wrapped in plastic, in refrigerator, until this week.  I did 2 whip/tongue grafts onto Saijo, wrapped completely in parafilm tape, and further wrapped in aluminum foil to protect from sunshine.  They will need checking in a week, but I doubt a take in less than a month if they take at all.

I chose "Chocolate" because (1) they had it, (2) I read that "Chocolate" has some male flowers so can pollenize other persimmons - not likely needed, but interesting to consider, (3) I bought some of this variety fruit at Albertson's last winter and they really were good.  On the negative side, I also read this variety might not have time to ripen in Maritime Northwest cool summer/fall.  This is where grafting is helpful - I don't waste the time, orchard space, tree care, and money, for a full one-variety tree that might not bear at all.

Most of last year's grafts have healed to the point where the graft unions are difficult to see.  They are sturdy, stout branches now (plum) or are on their way to being so (apple).
Hanska plum whip/tongue graft at one year.  4.15.16

Hanska plum whip/tongue graft at one year.  4.15.16
 Persommin update, grafting and observations of growth.

I read that persimmons can be more challenging to graft, compared to other fruit trees.  It is reported that helpful measures include, grafting the dormant scion onto actively growing rootstock, and sheltering the graft from sun until it takes.  I obtained scion of the persimmon variety "Chocolate" at the Home Orchard Society scion fair a few weeks ago, and stored wrapped in foil / plastic bag, in the refrigerator.  Now the existing trees are growing actively, so I cut the scion in half and grafted to two sites on the variety "Saigo".    I wrapped fully with Parafilm tape and covered with aluminum foil.  I may change the foil wrap to something more loose in a couple of weeks, depending on how they look.

The persimmon variety "Chocolate" is reported as having occasional male flowers, which is not necessary for Saijo or Nikita's gift, but might be interesting in the future.  According to Raintree, Maritime Pacific Northwest summers are too cool for ripening fruit of this variety, so I did not want to buy an entire tree.  On the other hand I've tasted "Chocolate", grown in Willammete Valley, and liked them very much.  They are reported to have occassional male flowers, which might be interesting.  Saijo and Nikita's gift, my other two Asian or Hybrid varieties, are not considered to need pollination, however.

The American persimmon varieties are leafing out more slowly, compared to Saijo.  Nikita's Gift is between the two.  There is still potential for frost, but that seems like a minimal risk now.  Saijo has the start of a few flower buds, which emerge on new growth, not directly from dormant stems.
"Yates" American persimmon at 2nd leaf.  4.14.16

Nikita's Gift hybrid persimmon early growth.  4.14.16

Saijo Asian persimmon with emerging flower buds.  4.14.16


Thursday, April 14, 2016

Grafting Tomato Plants. 4.13.16

Choosing similar size plants.
 This is my kitchen garden science experiement today. 

Tomatoes are grafted to provide increased vigor and productivity, and for disease resistance.

I obtained scion by growing seeds of tomato varieties that I like.  Among these are Better Boy, Supersweet 100, Sunny Boy, Sungold, and Roma.

I grew rootstock from seeds ordered from Johnny's Selected Seeds.  The variety is "Supernatural" which despite its name, is not GMO.
Try to match stem size.

Cut both stems with one slice, to match angle.
 Supernatural is specifically a rootstock variety.  It does not make edible fruits.

The seedlings are big enough to handle.  I chose each, tried to match stem sizes, sliced with razor blade, and attached with silicone clips.  I obtained the clips several years ago via internet search, but forget where.

Then I replanted each grafted seedling in moist seed starting medium, then misted the grafted seedlings and placed them into a humidity chamber.  I made the humidity chamber using a plastic wastebasket, an old Tee shirt moistened to increase humidity, and covered with plastic wrap.  This set-up is now in a closet, where it needs to be kept in the dark for 3 days.

I have never done this before.  I don't know if it will work.
Line up and attach silicone clip.

Tomato version of "Play Misty For me"

Humid and dark for 3 days.  Waiting.  Waiting.  Waiting.

Tuesday, April 12, 2016

What's blooming? 4.11.16

Most of the apples are finishing blooming. The Prairie Fire Crabapple, now in 3rd leaf, is looking great. Most branches are above deer browsing height. This tree puts on a real show and appears problem free, so far. The earliest bearded irises are blooming. This means, blue colors and smaller size, in my collection. They look the best since planting 4 years ago. The house came with a gigantic lilac bush. It needed some renovation, cutting out old dead trunks and a little thinning. It has responded with a big show this year.

I started carefully collecting pollen from the one pawpaw flower at the pollen shedding stage, and transferring pollen to flowers that appear to be at a receptive stage.  The stigmas are receptive before pollen is shed, and when pollen is shed the stigmas are no longer receptive.  With down-facing flowers on small trees, it's tricky.  The variety "Sunflower" is clearly first, but has flowers at many stages.  I transferred pollen both to earlier stage "Sunflower" flowers, and to earlier stage "NC-1" flowers.
Flowers of "Prairie Fire" Crabapple.  4.11.16

Crabapple "Prairie Fire".  4.11.16

Giant old lilac bush.  4.11.16

Lilac Flowers.  4.11.16

Iris "Eleanor Rooseveldt".  4.11.16

Iris germanica  4.11.16
Pawpaw flower with pollen.  4.11.16

Owl box. 4.11.16


 Barn owls are known to eat significant numbers of rodents.  A single pair of barn owls can eat 2,000 rodents a year.

I hear owls in the distance, and occasionally seen them overhead.  However, my area is  developing rapidly.  I don't know what that means for owl habitat, but probably not good.

Last year I bought this owl nesting box.  It would not be complicated to make one, but I wasn't up to it.  Then it sat in the garage for a year.

I set it up on an old basketball hoop stand that came with the place and has been sitting around for years.  I removed the backboard, and lashed the nesting box onto the hoop.  Without the backboard, I was able to move the box back on the hoop for better center of gravity.

This turned out to be a very easy job.  Plus it's portable.  This is in an easement, which if I'm lucky will never get used - long story - but I can't place anything permanent in the area. 

Now to see if a pair of owls finds and uses the nest box.  That might be a while, if ever.


Thursday, April 07, 2016

Apple Blossom Time. 4.7.16

Standing next to NorthPole Apple.  4.7.16
 Here are the current blooming apples in the Vancouver yard.  This is all of my varieties there.  They are all early.

The NorthPole apple is about 15 years old.  It's a nice shape and appearance.  Difficult to find photos of such an old columnar apple tree. 

The newer Northpole is a graft I did on rootstock sprouts from an old apple tree.  I think this is dwarf or semidwarf rootstock, but I'm not sure.  Northpole is off patent, so it's OK to use as scion.

The other apple trees are on M27.  This is too dwarfing for me, but this year they look like they will be productive.  I played the bee and collected pollen from the pollen fertile varieties - Northpole, Liberty - and transferred to each other and to the pollen-sterile Jonagold.  I love the Jonagold apples, hope I get a good crop this year.

No photos now, but at Battleground the other columnar trees, Scarlet Sentinel and Golden Sentinel are also blooming, as is Queen Cox. 


Jonagold on 27.  4.7.16

Liberty on M27. 4.7.16

New NorthPole Apple, at 2nd leaf.  4.7.16