Completed Grafting. 3.19.2021

 I enjoy making new grafts, a lot.  It still feels like magic, taking a stick (scion) from one tree and adding it to a rootstock or shoot of another tree, and having it grow and become one with it's understock and make fruits.  So I look forward to when the weather and season are right.  I plan ahead, collect scion wood and refrigerate it over the late winter, and order from sources such as Burnt Ridge or Fedco.  This year I ordered a couple unnecessarily.  I was over enthused.  Blame the pandemic.  Even so, all of the grafts are done now.

Apples -

I started converting the Jonathan multigraft back to mostly Jonathan.   Some of the older grafts were not appealing for me (Keepsake and Granite Beauty) so why keep them?  I got to test them out, which is good, and they didn't pass.   Porter, on the same multigraft tree, is very good.  I want to keep it, but it is too vigorous on a Jonathan, so I started the process of cutting that back.  I have a minitree started for Porter which probably won't bear for a few years.

So I pruned off Keepsake entirely.  Granite Beauty had a graftable small shoot that I grafted with scion from Jonathan, then removed the rest of that branch.  Granite Beauty was also too vigorous for that Jonathan.  I also pruned back about 1/3 of the Porter, and grafted two small lower shoots of that with Jonathan scion.  If they take, I hope there is still some good structure and I can get the tree mostly converted to Jonathan.  It will be interesting to see what happens. My scion in the fridge was a little mildewed, so I cut new scion from the Jonathan, seeking stems that had buds that had not started to open yet.

That leaves Priscilla, the rest of Porter, and a large branch of Airlie Red Flesh on that tree.  I want them to bear this year, then reevaluate for whether to leave any of those on or go 100% to one variety in the next year or two.  Priscilla is OK, is disease resistant, and bears well, same vigor as the Jonathan, but doesn't seem too special.

I'm not that crazy about the Airlie Red Flesh now.  It's a decent apple but tends to get scab.  I also have a branch of that on another tree, so that might be enough.  They seem to keep - I had some this week, so at least few kept in the garage to March and that was better than the famous super-keeper, GoldRush.

Pears - I grafted "Dana Hovey" onto a branch of "Rescue Pear".  Fedco describes Dana Hovey as "Small...  rich golden-yellow russeted pear. Possibly the best eating of all winter pears. Keeps extremely well."  That tree needs some pruning and shaping. Pear grafts usually take very well.  I thought a winter pear seemed like a good idea.  Usually a lot of the summer pears spoil on the tree.

I had some rootstock left over from last year, Geneva-222 that had a graft of Fuji Beni Shogun that didn't take.  I think the Geneva wood was too thick and hard at the time for a whip-and-tongue.   It was still alive so I cleaned it up and put on a new graft with William's Pride.   This time, a cleft graft.  The William's Pride scion was skinny, so we'll see.   I don't know what I'll do with it if it takes.  There are usually some trees that die or I give up on them, so there will be a replacement ready.

I also added grafts to two of the Chestnut trees.  One goes on the "Marissard Seedling".  I planted that tree about 4 or 5 years ago before I understood that a chestnut seedling may not bear for many years, compared to a grafted tree, and that it may not make pollen (that variety), and that there is no assurance that it will even make nuts.  That tree is upwind of the 3 other chestnut trees, so I want it to make pollen if nothing else.  Last year I grafted the four lower branches with Precose Migoule, Marigoule, and Marivale.   That way, if one or two are not compatible, there are still the other(s).  Those all seemed to take.  This year I added Primato.   Primato is reported as early ripening, which would be good here in WA State.  The branches are so high, I stood on the bed of the pickup truck to graft it.  That scion was more than pencil thick, and hard.  I don't know if it will take.  I also bought scion of the variety "Bisalta #3".  I added that to the Easternmost tree, the Precose Migoule. I thought it might be useful some time in the future to take over the tree if that one continues to have nuts that are (a) quite a bit smaller and (b) fall from the husk, allowing animals to eat them.  If nothing else, two of the four chestnut trees now have potential pollen producing branches within the tree, so wind direction and insects are less of an issue.

I also added one more black cherry graft to the North Star pie cherry tree.  That's a sad looking tree, due to a giant maple fell on it a month ago.

That's all of my Spring Grafting for the year.  Apples, Pear, Cherry, Chestnuts.  Mostly some whip-and-tongue but also a couple of cleft grafts.

Healing Sunburned Bark on Jonagold Tree. 3.17.2021

 Around five years ago, I moved this Jonagold dwarf tree from my old yard to the current yard.  In it's orivinal spot, it didn't get much sun.  It developed a large area of sunburn, which I wondered might be fatal.  But it wasn't.  I didn't do anything to cover the wound.  It is almost completely healed now.

Notching Apple Branches to courage Latent Buds to Grow. 3.17.2021

I've never done this before.  I read that if you want a latent bud to grow, you should cut a notch through the bark above the bud.  The top of the tree sends auxin hormone to buds that keep them from growing.  Cutting the notch interrups the flow of auxin, allowing growth.  At least, that's what the books say.

 I want this Akane apple tree to have lower branches, so I can lower the top.  So I did an experiment and notched about these two buds.  We will see.

Cutting Back Last Year's "Whips" for Miniature SIze Trees. 3.17.2021

 I was reading that for miniature trees, one year old whips should be cut back to knee height -about 2 feet.  That way, they will branch near the ground, forming a bush.  It's a difficult cut to make for a baby tree, but if that's what's needed, then it should be done.  So I did.  All of them.

Grafting Apples. 3.17.2021

 It seems like just about perfect time for grafting apples.  We are probably done with hard frosts, the understocks have not started blooming yet but budes are starting to swell in some.varieties.  Now three of the espaliers have grafts for new tops - so now the Zestar will have top tiers of Rubinette, Calypso will have top ties of Otterson, and Honeycrisp will have top tiers of Gala.  I chose Gala because it's a good variety that I know I like, Rubinette is a great variety, very delicious, that's  grows well for me but isn't available in stores, and Otterson is supposedly the darkest red apple grown - possibly smaller and less vigorous than others, so it seemed like a nice top for Calypso, which I suspect will also be less vigorous.

I also grafted Duchess of Oldenberg onto Milo GIbson.  I might want to discontinue the Milo if the apples are no more special than last year, in which case I will have a new top of it from the graft of Duchess.

Lastly, I had a graft of a red flesh apple on Geneva 222 rootstock last year, but I don't want it.  So I top grafted that one with Opalescent, a historic apple that I like and have a small graft of on a multigraft tree, but it isn't getting much of a chance.  I'm not sure where this tree will go if it does well, but there are choices.

I also started putting on some new labels, that have the probable harvest dates.

Here are most of the grafts so far.   All except the Otterson are whip and tongue.  The Otterson was too small so I did a cleft graft for that one.