Progress Report. Columnar Apple Graft. 6.6.15

Whip-Tongue, 3 months later.  Columnar Apple.  6.6.15

 These are the grafts I did in march on 1-year-old columnar apple trees.

There is some callous formation distorting the shape of the graft.  That does not hurt anything.  Just cosmetic.

The grafts are fully healed.  Growth is strong.

Below the graft, there are lots of spurs.  Maybe fruit next year.  There are a few spurs above the graft, but I don't expect much from those next year,

Spurs on 2nd year of Columnar Apple.  6.6.15

June T-Budding. 6.5.15

Apricot T-buds onto plum.  6.5.15

 Today seemed like a good day to T-bud.  I had a day of vacation.  Temp is 80 degrees F.  The bark is slipping very nicely, on plums, apricots, and cherries.

Several of last year's June T-buds on plum, took and put out about 18 inches of growth before winter.  The others all took, but remained dormant until Spring.  All of those have been growing rapidly, good solid robust growth.

Cherries were another story.  Only one Cherry T-bud took.  Maybe they are just more difficult,  and I'm still a novice.   One observation, was that there was a lot of callous formation under the grafts.  The callous seemed to push the grafts off the unions.

Last year I also grafted the cherries in mid July.  This time is more than a month earlier.

  Today, I T-budded some apricot onto the multi-graft plum.  It's a long shot as to whether they ever bear, because apricot blooms too early and is frost killed.  But if those couple of branches do that, it's OK.  I also T-budded Methley onto the plum multigraft.  The Methley is from my 4-year tree, which has not yet borne fruit.  I thought about also adding Toka, but did not find good understock branches. I can wait and do them as whip and tongue grafts next Spring, if I still want to add them.

As for Cherries, I T-budded 3 each of Stella and Ranier onto Almaden Duke.  Also 4 of Lapins, onto the same Almaden Duke.  This time, I double-wrapped as I did this Spring's whip-tongue grafts, first with polyethylene tape, then with Parafilm.  Then, to hold the cambium at the back of the bud, firmly against the stock, I overwrapped tightly, with a non-stretching nylon twine.

 Now it's wait and see.  From what I've read, the string will need to be cut at 3 weeks.

Ranier Cherry T-bud onto Almaden Duke Cherry.  6.5.15

These will need to be observed for the right time to unwrap, without letting the twine girdle the grafts.  It's worth a try.

I copied the bud-wood illustration from last year's attempts.  

Budwood Illustration from 7.15.14

Whip and Tongue Grafts, Unwrapped. 6.5.15

Apple Whip / Tongue at 3 months.  6.5.15

Apple Whip / Tongue Graft at 3 months.  6.5.15

 Today I unwrapped the 3-month old whip & tongue grafts on apple and plum.  They turned out the best of any I have ever done.  Very pleased.

The incisions are very closely approximated.  The graft unions healed without excessive callous.  On the plums, some are so close, it's difficult to see the unions.

I'll need to take better photos tomorrow, and update this post.  My better camera had a bad battery.

What worked:

These were standard whip and tongue grafts.

I wrapped with polyethylene tape, then over-wrapped with Parafilm.  It must be that, and not my carpentry, that improved the results.

I waited until now to unwrap them.  This is 3 months.  The new growth ranges from about 6 inches to about 2 foot.  

Hybrid Plum Whip / Tongue @ 3 months.  6.5.15

Hybrid Plum Whip / Tongue @ 3 months.  6.5.15

Progress Report. Hardy Palms in Battleground, WA. 5.30.15

Trachycarpus fortunei palm, in ground one year.  5.30.15

Chamaerops humilis palm, in ground one year.  5.30.15

The two palms that I planted last summer, survived the hard freeze and the rest of the winter.

I'm not surprised that Trachycarpus fortunei survived.  I have one of the same species in Vancouver, that is about 25 foot tall in 14 years.    I bit more than one foot per year, with no plant food, no watering, no treatment other than cutting off drooping leaves.

Chamaerops humulis was looking worn, but survived the winter.  Despite the small size, the largest stem has a flower bud.  Good to watch for bee activity.  I don't know when the flowers will open.

Both have new leaves.  Both got the pee-cycling treatment, a thick layer of grass clipping mulch, and extra water today.

Neither needs deer protection.  They are too spiky.  Trachycarpus leaves rattle and quiver in the wind, sounding like rattlesnakes and looking like wild dancers.  Chamaerops carries inconspicuous sharp spines, that readily draw blood and curses when I attempt to weed it.

Here they are when planted, one year ago.  It takes looking at last year's photo to appreciate that there has been growth.  Especially the Chamaerops, the difference is subtle.

The same Trachycarpus, 5.25.14

The same Chamaerops.  5.25.14

Fig, Persimmon,Progress Report. 5.30.15

Container Figs.  5.130.15

 Container figs all have thick mulch of chopped fir tree.  Some are doing better than others.  I've snapped off the growing tips, for branches of 4 or more leaves, to stimulate fig development.  For in-ground fig row south of house, I've done the same for side branches but allowed the central leaders to continue.

Persimmons.  The 2 trees in 3rd leaf, and the American Persimmon in 1st leaf, are all growing vigorously.  Nikita's Gift and Yates' flower buds persist. Chances are they will fall off, but I watch anyway.   All have protection from deer and rodents, and all have thick grass clipping mulch.  All have been given pee-cycling fertilizer, and all have been given extra water.

American Persimmon "Yates".  5.30.15

Hybrid Persimmon "Nikita's Gift"  5.30.15

 Pawpaws.   The three in 3rd leaf are growing well. "Sunflower" 3 fruit embryo / one flower, persists.  All have had doses of pee-cycling fertilizer, diluted 1:10, and all have been given extra water.  All have thick layers of grass clipping mulch, and nearby grass/weeds are removed.

Pawpaw "Mango", in first leaf, looks great.  That too, has been given the spa treatment, with  diluted pee, grass clipping mulch, protective fencing, and weed/grass clearance.

Kaki Persimmon "Saijo".  5.30.15

Pawpaw trees @ 3rd Leaf.  5.30 15

Squash and Corn Bed. 5.30.15

Fig, corn, and squash bed.  5.30.15

The original plan for this bed was to plant bee forage.  I have plenty of those.  I needed a place for squash and corn.  This is the warmest, sunniest part of the  yard, south of the house.

I also planted two rows of Asclepias syriaca, Common milkweed / Butterfly flower.  Those are for honeybees and local bees.  As perennials, they may not bloom until next year.

The fig trees on the left look healthy.  They do not need the space yet.  The small fig trees will not shade the annual crops, which are on the south side of the fig trees.

Gardening this area saves some mowing.  This has always been a difficult spot.  A fence, to the neighbor's field, is directly adjacent.

Chamomile for tea (tisane). 5.30.15

German Chamomile in garden bed.  5.30.15

Harvested chamomile flowers.  5.30.15

In 2012 I bough 2 plants of German chamomile and planted in a vegetable bed.   They grew too large, so I moved them to another location.  New plants self-seeded last year and this year.  I left them in place, thinking I could eventually dry the flowers for chamomile tea.  Since chamomile tea does not contain tea leaves, it is technically a tisane.  I drink chamomile / ginger almost every evening, with some honey, to settle my stomach.  Since I already use it, I might as well dry my own, fresh, local, free, organic chamomile flowers for that purpose.

I cut the flowers.   They will go into the food drier for a day or two.  I think that should do it.

Geranium (Pelargonium) shrubs. 5.31.15

Overwintered Geraniums.  5.31.15

These are the geraniums (Pelargoniums) that I overwintered for the 2nd or 3rd winter.  The front (right) box was overwintered in sun-room, and stayed green much of winter with blooming.  The back (left) box, less visible, was overwintered dry, in the garage.  Those geraniums have filled in and starting to bloom.  Nice big, full, Pelargonium shrubs.

The center box contains new plants.  Two are purchases, and one is a cutting from the back box, rooted in water after I cleaned up and pruned the plants when brought outside from their winter dormancy.

Overwintered Geraniums.  5.31.15

Growing Degree Days, Battleground WA

This information is from Western Regional Climate Center.

Trinity SE Sweetcorn need 1,190 heat units  Based on the info below, if I understand correctly, adding to May (now) 559 growing degree days, +1,190 = 1759 which occurs in August.  But I don't know that I understand this table correctly.

Pawpaws require 150 frost free days and 2200 growing degree days, which I am thinking we get here in Sept or Oct. Might be OK.

Station:(450482) BATTLE GROUND
From Year=1928 To Year=2012
Growing Degree Days for Selected Base Temperature (F)
Base	Jan.	Feb.	Mar.	Apr.	May	Jun.	Jul.	Aug.	Sep.	Oct.	Nov.	Dec.	Annual
40 M	62	96	168	275	456	584	747	756	607	375	153	69	4348
40 S	62	159	326	602	1057	1641	2388	3144	3751	4126	4279	4348	4348
45 M	16	27	63	142	302	434	592	601	457	226	59	18	2938
45 S	16	43	106	249	551	985	1577	2178	2635	2861	2920	2938	2938
50 M	2	4	16	57	165	285	437	446	308	105	13	2	1840
50 S	2	6	22	78	243	528	965	1411	1719	1824	1837	1840	1840
55 M	0	0	2	17	72	150	284	292	171	33	1	0	1023
55 S	0	0	2	19	91	241	525	817	988	1021	1023	1023	1023
60 M	0	0	0	3	26	62	148	152	71	6	0	0	468
60 S	0	0	0	3	29	91	239	391	462	468	468	468	468
Corn Growing Degree Days
50 M	16	44	88	153	258	334	456	465	373	215	61	16	2479
50 S	16	60	148	300	559	892	1349	1814	2187	2402	2463	2479	2479

I bolded the bottom line.   That seems the most relevant.

Interpretation of the table:

"M = Monthly Data
S - Running sum of monthly data. 

Growing Degree Day units =  (Daily Ave. Temp. - Base Temp.) 

One unit is accumulated for each degree Fahrenheit the average temperature is above the base temperature. Negative numbers are discarded. 

Example: If the days high temperature was 95 and the low temperature was 51, the base 60 heating degree day units is ((95 + 51) / 2) - 60 = 13. This is done for each day of the month and summed.

Corn Growing Degree Day units have the limitations that the maximum daily temperatures greater than 86 F are set to 86 F and minimums less than 50 F are set to 50 F. "

Persimmon and Pawpaw Progress Report. 5.19.15

Flower Buds on Nikita's Gift Persimmon.  5.19.15

Last Remaining Flower on Sunflower Pawpaw.  5.19.15

All but one of the pawpaw flowers fell  off.  The one that remains is on Sunflower.  It takes a close look to see the developing ovary.  I don't know.  It might give a couple of pawpaws.  This one flower is the last chance for this year.

Saijo Persimmon had some flower buds but they fell off without opening.  Nikita's gift started growth much later, compared to Saijo, the growth is much thicker and stronger, and there are a few flower buds.  The tree is only about 3 feet tall.

Yates American Persimmon is also growing strong, and has some flower buds.  This is first leaf for that one.