Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Buds. Pollinating. Bud Grafts. 3.10.15

Crimson Pointe Plum.  3.10.15

Peach and Plum flowers for pollinating.  3.10.15
 Many of the plums and peaches are in full bloom.

Unkown Battleground plum.  Mid to late bloom.

Unknown #2.  Scattered bloom.

Crimson Pointe Plum.  Full bloom.

Toka.  Early, almost full bloom.

Oregon Curl Free Peach - Early, almost full.

Charlotte Peach - Early, almost full.

Q-1-8 Peach - Early.

Hollywood Plum.  Full bloom.

Shiro Plum.  Full bloom.

Methly Plum.  Only 3 flowers on the tree.

Genetic Dwarf Peaches.  All full bloom.

Stanley Plum.  Buds eginning to swell.

Gage Plum.  Buds beginning to swell.

Sweet cherries.  Buds beginning to swell.

Tart cherries.  Barely noticable swelling.

Apples.  Buds swelling.

Asian Pears.  Buds swelling.

Pawpaws.  Buds beginning to swell.

Persimmons.  Barely detectable growth bud swelling.

Mulberries.  No noticable swelling.

Shan Zha (Chinese Haw) - see photo.  I don't know if these are flower buds or new growth.

Shan Zha buds, almost open.  3.10.15
I cut stems from the genetic dwarf peaches, Hollywood and Shiro plums, to take to Battleground as pollen sources.  I used artist paintbrush to transfer pollen from those to peaches and plum flowers.

Many of the bud grafts from July 2014 are opened and growing.  They are a bit less vigorous compared to other buds on those trees.  I cut back the stems to about 1/2 to 1 inch above the growing buds.  It's a long wait, from July to March, to see if they took.

It's interesting that some of the bud grafts are blooming, such as the Hollywood, pink, buds on the unknown, white flowered plum tree.   I noticed several such buds bloomed.  I think it's OK, the stem growth will follow.

New sign for the yard - Washington State Backyard Wildlife Sanctuary.  I had to fill out an application form describing the places in the yard where wildlife can find shelter, the trees, potential pollen and nectar sources for bees and butterflies, no-spray area, some native plants although by no means all.  Now signs up on both parts of the yard.

Hollywood buds on unknown variety of plum.  3.10.15
Toka plum in bloom.  3.10.15
 On bud grafts - it looks like plums did the best.  The couple I did on peach tree did not take.  Only 2 of about 8 on lilac took.  On cherries, hard to say because not all buds are swelling.  Some have fallen off.  I think all of the plum buds took.  Some are growing, some have flowers.
Backyard Wildlife Sanctuary

Sunday, March 08, 2015

Starting up overwintered plants. 3.8.15

Overwintered geraniums - dry.   3.8.15

Geraniums cleaned up.  3.8.15
 I took the planter box of geraniums, out of the garage.  These were overwintered without water since about early November.  There is some lanky growth. 

I pruned off the dead leaves and some of the lanky stems.  Watered.  It's now on the deck next to the house.  They should make a comeback in a dew weeks.


Meanwhile, the geraniums I overwintered in the sunroom bloomed for most of the winter. 

The advantages of overwintering geraniums are:
*After the first purchase, subsequent years are free.
*There are usually some stems for cuttings.   Geraniums are easy to start cuttings in a glass of water.
*The resultant plants are much bigger than bedding plants at the big box store.  They can be a sizable shrub in a few years.  Very colorful.

The disadvantages:
*They don't look good, for a few weeks.
*Sometimes they don't survive.  But they usually do.
*You need a place that is dry and frost free to store them dry.  Or, a sunny place to keep them growing.
Geraniums overwintered in sunroom.  3.8.15

Saturday, March 07, 2015

Joe Pye Weed. Start from seeds. 3.5.15

Joe Pye Weeds to stratify.  3.5.15
I read that Joe Pye Weed seeds need to be stratified.  I bought the seeds via mail order.  This plant is considered an excellent bee and butterfly plant.  I placed the seeds on damp paper towel, in zip-lock bag.  They should be in fridge for 2 or 3 weeks, then planted.  I have a few left.  If there is a chance, I can plant those outside.

Spring Tree Blossoms, Puttering. Container Fruit Trees. 3.7.15

Bonanza Peach in bloom.  3.7.15

Honeybees enjoying a sunny spring day.   3.7.15
 Today was sunny and warm.  Last week there was frost almost every night, but low was about 29F.   I don't think that is low enough to kill the plum flowers and peach flowers.

The Italian honeybees have been actively foraging.  I have not yet painted the Warre hive.  Need to do that soon.

The forsythia was grown from a cutting, then I moved the large bush to the Battleground place 2 1/2 years ago.  Nice display.

The Crimson Pointe Plum is columnar shape.  It makes a nice early showing of the flowers.  The fruits are good, small, but last year there were none.  The lowest branches were eaten by deer, but they don't browse about about 4 to 5 feet.

The Hollywood plum starts are growing.  The laburnum has not started growing yet, and the Forsythia is still blooming.
Forsythia.  3.7.15

Crimson Pointe Plum.  3.7.15

Trees and shrubs from cuttings, 1-2 years old.  3.7.15
Potted trees.  3.7.15
The potted trees were the new apricot variety, "Pixicot", listed as genetic dwarf.  I potted this tree, intending to grow in container and keep inside if blooms occur during frost days.  The Arbequina olive has flower buds.  I potted it up to a 2-gallon container.  The plan for the olive, is to spend winter in the sunroom and summer outside.

Planting Bare Root Trees and Shrubs. Raintree Order. 3.7.15

Whip-and-trongue graft on Pawpaw.   3.7.15


Container grown pawpaw "Mango".  3.7.15
 Thursday night, the order from Raintree Nursery arrived.  I kept it in a cool shaded location until this morning.

I am a big fan of Raintree but this time around it was a mixed bag, to say the least.  In the long run, I imagine the trees and shrubs will all grow.

The Pawpaw "Mango" was nice.  Container grown.  I read that bare root pawpaws don't easily grow, if at all.  Small starts are usually required.  So I expected small.  I was interested to see this one was a whip-and-tongue graft.  I read that pawpaws are usually chip budded.  Nice example of a good whip-and-tongue.

The roots were not wound around and around in the container.  I was gentle, which I read is important for pawpaws.  I planted it, surrounded it with a hardware cloth protector, and watered it in.

Sweet Treat Pluerry was disappointing but I think will be OK in the end.  Most of the branches were broken off near the trunk.  The remaining couple of branches are on the same side  There was evidence of growth cut off or  broken off at the trunk, so I'm not sure there are viable buds there.  So I cut off the broken branches.  Probably will tie up the top branch to vertical, and prune back once there is growth and I can see where the buds break.

The Pluerry did have an excellent root system, which is as important as a good top.  If not more so.

The apple tree was sold as a 4-variety multigraft.  It was nice this was 5 varieties.  I'm going by memory, if I recall correctly the varieties are Akane, Jonagold, Summerred, Chehalis, and Beni Shogun Fuji. Excellent root system.  It has a good chance to take off and grow.  Looks very healthy.

The bonus plants were, 3 red rugosa roses and one highbush cranberry.  The rugosa roses looked OK.  Small, but as a bonus I can't complain.   The highbush cranberry looked more like it was hacked back, than pruned. Still, once I pruned it, it looked pretty good.

I read highbush cranberries are a type of viburnum, and not really cranberries, but taste and look like them.  The rugosas should have some good rose hips for cooking, so they are also an edible plant.  Both are considered deer resistant.

Back to the Sweet Treat Pluerry, this tree is a complex interspecific hybrid, mainly plum with cherry second, and some peach and apricot.  How it turns out here will be anybody's guess.  It is not listed, which plums, which peaches, apricots, or cherries.  I hope the peach contribution does not make it susceptible to peach leaf curl.  Should not, but that is an issue with the Peach-plum hybrid, "Tri-lite".

This time around, Raintree's order was not packaged well, the newspaper wrappings were dry, so the roots were dry.  They reported they would send the shipment a few days after my first  query, then a few days after my 2nd query 2 weeks later, then it was shipped another week later; the shipping company did not give an expected date until the day it arrived.  So there was good, bad, and ugly.  Now they are planted and ready for Spring.

Pawpaw roots.  3.7.15

Planted pawpaw.  3.7.15

Sweet treet pluerry - on delivery.  3.7.15

Planted Sweet Treet.  3.7.15

Sweet Treet roots.  3.7.15

Apple tree roots.  3.7.15

Highbush cranberry on delivery.  3.7.15

Pruned Highbush Cranberry.  3.7.15

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Puttering. 2.24.24

Shrub and tree cuttings, 1 to 2 years old.  2.24.15

Forsythia cutting.  One year old.  2.24.15
 Puttering.

I finished adding cedar wood chip mulch to the front border.  Now it should be maintenance free for a long time.  Maintenance free is good.

Forsythia cutting from this time last year is blooming.  Didn't grow much last year  Lots of roots.  I think it will grow this year.

Plum cuttings from last year are starting to grow.  No flower buds.

Two year old Laburnum / Golden Chain Tree cuttings, I removed from ground an potted for some TLC.   I think this is 2 years old, might be 3.  Buds starting to swell.

Potted genetic dwarf peach is starting to bloom.  If it frosts, I can move it inside.  Looks like growth is starting much lower on the tree.  Good.  I can prune it back for a more compact plant.  I kept it out of the rain all winter.  Too soon to see if that helped with peach leaf curl.  I am playing the bee with a paintbrush, to support pollination.  This is either Bonanza or Ponderosa.  I mix up the names, which shows my age.

Bee forage plots, seedlings have germinated.  Borage, Phacelia, Crimson Clover.   The borage will crowd and shade out all weeds and grasses in its plot, which is good.  I expect so will the crimson clover.

I transplanted lemon balm into the remaining bee forage plot.  Lemon balm / Melissa is considered great bee forage.  They ignored it last year.   I had it planted around seedling trees, but it's too vigorous and competed with the trees.  So today it's in it's own plot, much nearer the beehive.

Honeybees are out in force, for past 2 weeks.  This is good.  They survived the winter and did not swarm.   Which reminds me, I need to paint the new hive.  This time it will be a Warre hive, which I hope needs less effort to keep the honeycombs straight.

Within a few yards of beehive:  Linden, Sourwood, Melissa, Borage, Phacelia, bee-friendly Buddlea Blue Chip, lavender - minimal, and a few more yards away, Nings wildflower meadow.  more Lindens, maples, and others.  That won't be enough to keep all of the foraging at our place, but I hope it helps a bit.

Smith Fig, kept in garage all winter, growing.  I moved it inside with predicted 29 degree night, not is back outside.  None of the others is growing, even kept in garage next to Smith.  In-ground Smith thoroughly dead.  It is more suited for more southern climate.

 Or is that peach El Dorado?  Nothing to do with Bonanza?  I'll have to look it up.

Bonanza Peach.  2.24.15

Bonanza Peach.  2.24.15

Borage Seedlings at one week.  2.24.15

Crimson Clover Seedlings at one week.  2.24.15

Transplanted Lemon Balm.  2.24.15

Front of house, with beehive.  2.24.15

Smith Fig starting to grow.  2.24.15

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Fig row / bee forage seed beds. 2.18.15

When we bought the place this was all weeds, especially Johnson Grass and some very tough weeds.

I wanted to make the mowing easier, so I covered the ground between the fig tree saplings, with plastic for the winter.  That killed the grass.  Last weekend I pulled up the plastic, and raked the soil reasonably smooth for seed beds.  I scattered borage seed on the largest bed, and the others are either phacelia or crimson clover. 

This abuts a neighbor's weedfield.  The appearance isn't very important.  I want to be able to run the lawn mower up and down both sides, without the much more difficult method of mowing around each tree.

If the beds work out, next year I can make them much wider, and just have 2 mower-widths of lawn on each side

One seedbed remains.  I bought Viper's Bugloss seeds, reported as excellent bee forage.  Then I read there are toxic pyrolizidine alkaloids in Bugloss' nectar and pollen.  Probably not enough to matter, but I may plant something else - maybe Agastache.  Another choice, lemon balm - I have lots of volunteer plants I can move there, enough to fill in an entire bed.

The lawn was carpeted with white Dutch clover last year.  I don't see any now.  It may just not be ready to grow yet.  I hope it does - excellent bee forage.

The areas just adjacent to the fig trees will be mulched, with a space between mulch and trunk.  I'm thinking of using straw.

This area is almost done and ready for Spring.  About the only maintenance will be quick runs of the lawn mower.

Front Borders Work In Progress. 2.18.15

Front Border and Walk.  2.18.15
Front Walk and Border.  2.18.15
So far, here is the front walk and border bed.  I've been working on them for 6 months.   The themes, if there are any -

-Most plants are usable for bee forage.

-Most plants were self-starts or transplants.

-Most plants are deer and rabbit resistant.

-Some edible plants are included, mainly herbs.

-Pavers are about 1/2 reused from various places, and 1/2 new.   So that they don't look uneven, I've been randomly mixing old and new, and the new is a mix of grey, brick red, and brown pavers.  Edging is also about 1/2 reused (grey) and 1/2 new (brick red). 

Under the mulch is a layer of cardboard food packaging, to prevent perennial weeds from coming up through the wood chip mulch.  It's working very well.

The plastic is there to kill the grass.  It's much easier to smooth the soil and prep a base for pavers, when the sod has been killed by this method.  It's slow - takes a few months.  But no hurry.
Front Border.  2.19.15

Front Border.  12.18.15
 By the house foundation, I will have a gravel walkway.  That avoids plants from growing up to the siding, and reduces risk for carpenter ants and termites.   It's been inspected - there are none.  I want to keep it that way.

For bee forage -
Sedums, big bunches of large varieties.
Helelborus - new clumps.
Daffodils, many.
Chinese chives, many clumps.
Lavender.
Rosemary
Sage.
Oregano, multiple clumps
Chives.
Daylilies, multiple clumps.
Blue chip Buddleia.
Alliums - multiple

For kitchen herbs and kitchen garden -
Rhubarb - large established clump and one I rescued.
4 miniature sized apple trees, 3 are columnar.
Oregano, Rosemary, Sage
Chives, Chinese Chives
Multiplier onions

This list is far from complete.  There are more varieties of bulbs including lilies and irises, Hyacinthoides and Leucojum and others.  There are groundcover sedums, violets, a big lilac that came with the place, some roses, and some I have forgotten.

Once the rest of the mulch is down - not much remaining to fill in - the bed should be mostly low  maintenance.  The edging and walkways will cut weed invasion back to a minimum.  The mulch will reduce water need.  The edging will keep grass out.  There is pretty good access via the walkways.  The edging needs tidying, the walks need completion and leveling, and that's about all.




Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Waiting. Waiting. Waiting. 2.11.15

I sent an email to Raintree Nursery.  Wondering about when the order will be sent.  Pawpaw "Mango".  Pluerry "Sweet Treet".  Cranberry bushes.  A genetic dwarf apricot and an olive tree - both for containers.

Plenty of time - but I'm hoping for their arrival soon.

They replied quickly, should be sent by the end of the week.

Nice weather now.

Anticipation.

Sunday, February 08, 2015

Winter Puttering. 2.10.14

Borage 6.5.14
 No new photos today.  I puttered as much as my energy allowed.

Cleared up about 50 sq foot area in fig row, that I covered with black plastic last fall, to kill grass.  Now it's apparent the area was used by previous owners to dispose of fireplace ash.  The grass and weeds were thick so apparently not too toxic.  In the center of that area, I have already planted a start of "King" fig.  In the cleared portion, I smoothed with garden rake and scattered borage seeds for bee forage.

Borage grows rampantly.  Big lush, muscular, drought tolerant plants.  The honeybees and bumblebees both love it.  This is a much larger area, compared to last year's few borage plants.

I uncovered the rest of the killed grass.  That area needs some rain for softening, then some more borage seeds.

Between the fig trees in the row, I've laid down plastic to kill grass.  Each section is about 25 square feet.  I want to use each section for bee forage.


Borage with honeybee.  7.5.14

 Based on last year's results, other great bee forage plants include Phacelia "Bee friend", and Dutch clover.  Last year Dutch clover took over much of the yard.  It is not visible now, but I imagine when the warm weather hits, it will do so again.

I have also bought seeds for a patch of Crimson clover, and a patch of Agastache.  It's not a huge increase in the size of the bee forage area, but bigger than last year and with some more experiments.  All organic, no pesticides, no neonicotinoids, no round-up, just nature.
Borage.  7.5.14

I have also increased the amount of Chinese chives - another flower the bees love to forage.  Being perennial, all I need to do is save seeds and sow them.  Any that grow, are in addition to the existing clumps.

Borage with bumblebee.  7.5.14

Dutch Clover with honeybee.  7.5.15
Phacelia tanacetifolia "Beefriend"  6.22.14
 In addition to clearing that area, I planted a mini-dwarf Jonagold apple tree that I grafted last year, using sucker from rootstock of another minidwarf tree and scion from the top.  This is in a perennial, shrub, and herb border.  They are more ornamental than useful, but again, some bee forage, and a few apples should result.

I planted some Egyptian Walking Onions that were lying around sprouting.
Phacelia tanacetifolia "Beefriend"  6.22.14

I provided the last pre-spring nitrogen boost for young trees in the mini-orchard / food forest.  The trees that benefited were:  Two sweet cherries; 2 years old.  One North Star tart cherry.  2 years old.  Newly planted American persimmon, Yates; and 2 year old Nikita's Gift and Saijo persimmons.  The Saijo might be a mistake - near bearing size and I read nitrogen boost can call fruit fall.  All three of the three-year-old pawpawsHollywood plum, 1 year old from cutting.

None of the plums got nitrogen boost, none of the peaches - those grow too rampantly as is, and are bearing size.  Rule of thumb for me - if bearing size, and last year's growth was more than a foot, then the extra nitrogen is probably not needed.  The plums grew more than 2 feet, and the peaches grew 2 to 3 feet, last year.  Ditto for Montmorency cherry.

There was some left over, so all of the fig trees in the fig row, south of the house, got nitrogen boost too.

"Nitrogen boost"  is euphemism for pee-cycling, or Urine Fertilizer.  In this case, I used 1:4 dilution.  One 1 liter, diluted, was watered in around each of  3 trees.

It's an early Spring.  Plum and peach buds are nearly open.  I hope we don't get a hard frost when they are susceptible.   If we do, we do.

Still anxiously awaiting Raintree nursery order and scion from Fedco.  Maybe end of the month.