Seed Testing. Progress Report.

Most of the seeds from the first batch are done. It might be early to terminate the test. But I got what I wanted and for the most part don't need to incubate further. So will start another batch.

Percentages are not detailed.  They are my wild estimate.

Nings old bean seeds.  Not very promising. A few are swelling, none with root initials.  There is a little mold.  I will incubate another week.  These might be dead.

Della Fave bean 50% 2012=1 year old
French Breakfast Radish 90% 2010=3 year old
Scarlet Nantes Carrot 20% 2010=3 year old
Scallop Squash 50% unknown date, I'm guessing 2 or 3 years old

Taiwan Sugar Pea 75% 2012=1 year old
Roma II Bush Bean 50%  unknown date.  I'm guessing 2 years old.
Cherry Belle Radish 100% 2012=1 yaer old
Parisian Market Carrot 10% unknown date, I'm guessing 1 year old.

This might not have been enough time for the carrots.  I can plant thicker to use up the seeds, and thin out extra plants if needed.

New batch.

These seeds:
Lettuce Black Seeded Simpson 2012
Radish Hailstone 2010
Okra North and South Hybrid 2009
Basil Italian Large Leaf 2010
Mesclun Blend 2010
Early Pride Hybrid Cucumber 2010

Tomato Gold Nugget 2009
Radish Champion 2010
Squash Butterstick 2010
Cilantro 2012
Bush Bean Tavera 2011
Tomato Better Boy 2006



I changed a few things.
Getting the moist paper towel into the plastic bag was very awkward.  Even with a spatula.  So this time I folded a piece of wax paper over the paper towel.  That handled a lot easier.
I also marked with a ball point pen, on the paper towel instead of the bag.

Planting & Garden Calendar for my Maritime NW Kitchen Garden

Kitchen Garden Calendar for 2013. 
I feel more connected to nature this year.  I hope that continues.  It's a rewarding feeling.
This calendar may be changed as I add more info.  It gets me off to a start.

This info from the book "Seed to Seed" by Suzanne, Ashworth.  The focus of the book is growing for kitchen garden, with seed saving in mind.  The organization is by plant type.  I've taken the info on kitchen garden plants that interest me, stuck the the Maritime Pacific NW, and organized as a Calendar for planning.  Since the chart is based on planting for seed saving, I may vary widely from it to plant for kitchen use.  The book gives planting times for each region of the US.  There can be variability based on local micro climates.

I also added:
Info in Italics from Oregon State University Extension Service.
Info in blue is from Rodale "Gardener to Gardener:  Almanac and Pest Control Primer" for Zone 8.  I'm not sure I agree with the info, but these are just guides.  Also, Zone 8 in one place is not the same as Zone 8 in another place.
Some sources contradict with others.

Here are some frost dates from climate-charts.com for Battleground WA:

First Frost			Last Frost
10%	50%	90%	10%	50%	90%
SEP 27	OCT 13	OCT 29	APR 07	APR 24	MAY 12

Also from Humeseeds.com
Average last frost date is May 2.  Safe date, when there is only 10% change for frost, is May 23

Battle Ground

May 2

May 23

January.
Take hardwood cuttings of shrubs or trees for propagation.
(Also collect scion wood for grafting.)
Sow beets carrots radishes bok choy and garden peas directly in garden, cover with dark compost to keep them warmer.
Sow seeds of herbs such as dill or parsley.

February.
Plant seeds of cole crops indoors.
Plant seeds of snow peas and garden peas outdoors.  Is this why they are snow peas?
3rd week of Feb, plant potatos 4" deep in dark soil.
Start sowing seeds for leaf lettuce and other greens every 2 weeks.
Plant alyssum seeds.
Mid Month.  Prune roses. 
Apply compost to trees and shrubs.

March.
When soil is consistently above 40F, can plant onions, kale, lettuce, and spinach.
Divide hostas, daylilies, mums.
Graft fruit trees and ornamentals.
Plant carrots, beets, broccoli, leeks, parsley, chives, rhubarb, radish.
Mid to late March:  Plant seeds for corn, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers.  (This must be indoors.)
Plant marigolds, petunias, snapdragons.(unclear if this is plants or seeds)

March 20 to April 1.
Plant pepper seeds indoors.

March 20 to April 10: 
Plant chive seeds
Plant garlic chive seeds
Plant broccoli seeds.  Row cover needed for pest control.
Plant cauliflower seeds.  Row cover.
Plant Chinese cabbage.  Row cover.
Plant radish seeds.  Row cover.
Plant Lettuce seeds.
Plant pea seeds and snow pea seeds.
Plant potato eyes,.
Plant dill seeds.
Plant Jerusalem artichokes.  Book states, seeds at this time.  I will have roots to plant.

April.
When soil temp is consistently above 60F, can plant beans and sweet corn.
(I don't think that's likely)
Plant okra, sweet potatoes, squash, melons, cucumbers, corn, basil, 

April 1:
Plant spinach seeds.

April 1-20:
Plant tomato seeds indoors.
Plant basil seeds indoors.

April 20:
Plant sunflower seeds.

May 5:  Average last frost date.

May:  (Unsure, but this may be when to take softwood cuttings for some shrubs or trees.  Some references state June or July)

May:
Plant tomatos, eggplant, peppers, cucumbers, squash, okra, beans, sweet potatoes, melons.
Plant daisies, coreopsis, marigolds, sunflowers.

May 10-20:
Plant corn seeds.

May 20:
Plant cucumber seeds,
Plant bean seeds.

May 15 to June 15:
Plant parsley seeds.

May 20 to June 1:
Plant tomato plants outside.
Plant Pepper plants outside.
Plant basil plants outside.

May 23:  Frost "safe date".

June:
Plant geraniums, marigolds.
Plant iris, cannas, dahlias, daylilies.
Continue planting cantaloupes, corn, cucumbers, okra, summer squash, sweet potatoes, bush beans.
Thin fruit on fruit trees
Mulch fruit trees with compost and organic mulch.

June 1-10:
Plant watermelon seeds.
Plant other melon seeds.

July:
Continue planting tomatoes, peppers, eggplants.
Don't overstimulate plants that need dormancy, with water or feeding.
Keep plantings mulched to retain water.

June 15-July 15:
Plant carrot seeds.

July 15:
Start Beet, Cabbage, Kale, Kohlrabi, or Collard seeds.
Plant Scorzonera

Sept 5:
Plant turnip seeds.

Sept 15 to Oct 1:
Plant spinach seeds to overwinter.

This covers the majority of our vegetables. 

According to the book, sweet potatoes and okra cannot be grown in maritime NW.  I will try short season varieties anyway.

Tree Protection. Chewed Bark. Hardwood Cuttings.

I don't know what chewed these fig branches. They have been on the ground for a couple of weeks. I read that figs are deer resistant. I've also read that mice or voles can chew fig bark.

I don't know if wrapping the trunk is needed or helpful. I do know that if I don't, and the bark is chewed off, I will be angry at myself for not doing it. So I did.  Brunswick fig.

I also wrapped this ginkgo, 2 lindens, the mulberry, and two tart cherries. And 2 plums. The basis for wrapping, was it a tree that I've gone to some trouble to grow, would it take a long time to replace, and did I think animals might find the trunk tasty.

The bag contains hardwood cuttings from the yard in Vancouver. There is Lattarula fig (big cuttings), and most of the grape varieties. Also scion wood for pear. I read they can be stored buried in damp sawdust, damp peat moss, damp sphagnum, or in refrigerator. I don't have a big pile of sawdust or peat moss or sphagnum, and there isn't room in the fridge. The leaf pile should keep them moist, safe during freezing, and sheltered from sun.   I buried them about a foot deep in the leaf pile.  If they don't survive, that's OK.

I also did some shaping of one linden, aiming toward a central leader. There were 2 main leaders, neither vertical. I removed one, and tied the other as close to vertical as I could. It's supported  by a bamboo post. The prunings went into a raised bed, as effortless hardwood cuttings. Maybe they'll strike, or not. Interesting if they do, no loss if they don't.

Unknown Shrub / Viburnum tinus

It's been blooming for a month. Maybe more. Freeze and snow didn't phase it. I don't know what it is.

This shrub came with the house. I haven't figured out what it is. Maybe an evergreen cultivar of viburnum. Or not.

Update: My friend Joan identified this shrub for me, almost immediately. It's a definite match: Viburnum tinus.

Must be rugged and vigorous, given these pics, and the neglect it's doubtless had. Blooms Oct to June. Evergreen.

Fig Pruning. Lattarula.

Lattarula before pruning.  This was a challenge.  Growth this year was rampant, making thick tall canes, as tall as the house.  Lattarula has a great breba crop, one of the best for me.  I love this fig.   I wanted to keep enough 2012 growth for a good 2013 breba crop.  But also, prune back so it doesn't become too big.  I don't want to climb a ladder to harvest figs.  This photo is after taking lots of cuttings, so the tree was even more congested a week ago.

After.  I pruned about half of the growth.  There are about 10 branches pruned to stubs, which I want to make new canes at lower level, for fall crop and brebas for 2014.  The rest are left for brebas, which I can prune away after they bear in mid Summer.  That will make for a more compact tree.  I also kept some prunings to start a tree at the Battleground place.

Grape pruning.

Each year at New Year's I prune the grapes.  It's early enough that the vines don't bleed, which they do if it's Spring.  This is the "before" for the arbor.

After.  I pruned most back to 3 or 4 nodes of new growth.  Removed some redundant vine.  Took more off Canadice, which I don't like as much flavor-wise.  Left more of Venus and Interlaken, which I like more.

Price grape, over gate.  Before.  Some vines grew more than 10 feet, into the lilac and beyond.

This is my favorite grape, a blue grapey flavored seeded grape.  It does not bear heavily.  I pruned back to 2 or 3 or 4 nodes.  I saved cuttings of this and Interlaken and Venus for the Battleground place.

Testing Seeds. Progress Report. Day 3.

Not sure about these Chinese beans.  But it's just 2 days.  Some are swelling.  Maybe a sign of life.

The squash are sprouting.  Ditto for the French Breakfast radishes,  The carrots are not sprouting yet.  The Della Fave pole beans are swelling a bit.

The Cherry Belle radishes, and Taiwan Sugar peas are sprouting.  Also a couple of the Roma II beans.  Not the carrots, yet,.

Testing Seeds

I have a lot of seeds from previous years. There is more planting room this year. I want to test some of them for viability, use them if they are viable. It's early. I can test a few at a time. In the past I used gallon-size ziploc bags, drew a grid on paper towel, and had many varieties per bag. This time I'm using sandwich size bags but otherwise similar.

Just 4 varieties per bag.  This is Cherry Belle radish (2012) , Taiwan Sugar Pea (2012), Parisian Market Carrot (no date - 2010?), and Roma II bean (2009).  They are all from 2012 so should be OK.

The beans labeled "Ning's Beans" must be 6 years old.  A Chinese bean.  It will be nice if they grow.  Not counting on it.

Scarlet Nantes carrot (2010), Della Fave pole bean (2012), Scallop bush squash (2008), and French Breakfast radish (2010).  I think the squash are 2010, no year on label.  The others are 2011.

All ziplocs are now on the heating mat.  I didn't count seeds.  If a few grow, or a lot grow, I'll try them.  If they don't, I won't.

Looking Forward to Gardening, 2013.

Beekeeping.  I'll plant a lot more nectar bearing plants, especially clovers. The nectar bearing trees should add more blooming potential each year. That includes fruit trees, lindens, and others. Ning wants a wildflower meadow. That fits the bee concept, perfectly. Plus there are 2 big wild cherry trees, big swaths of wild blackberry brambles here and nearby, small orchards, and the big buckeye tree. As the orchard grows, there should be a lot more nectar and pollen. (Illustration, source unknown)

I've signed up for another class on beekeeping in Jan. The beehive kit needs to be put together before bee season starts. I should do that in Jan or Feb.  I may build a second hive in case there is a swarm, or to have in Vancouver.  (Illustration source unknown)

Orchard.
Overplant the grass with more clover, to add soil nitrogen-production.
The plums need deer cages.. I've put in the posts, next comes the fencing.
Add 2 persimmons, ordered, bare root.
Add 2 sweet cherries, yet to order, bare root. Remove the 2 apples to a different area. They are small enough to move easily.
Finish putting in fence posts for vinyard while soil is moist and easy to work.  The wires can be installed while the vines grow.
Plant one ordered bare root grape vine and some grape cuttings from the Vancouver vines.  Price grape, maybe Interlaken.  (Illustration source, this blog, 1910 postcard, Des Plains IL)

Raised beds. Three built, 6 to go. I can build 2 or 3 per weekend. No hurry.  Some need deer protection fencing. Some need season extender hoops/row cover. The last ones can be built in April, maybe May. (Illustration source, this blog, 1940 Postcard, Toronto).

 That's about all of the major stuff. The rest is the usual - plant veggies, pruning, puttering.

New Year's Day. It Snowed.

New Years' Day in the Vancouver house back yard. First snow of the year. I'm not sure if it makes the back yard more interesting, or depressing. Some I left the pruners at Battleground, so the traditional New Years' grape pruning will wait for a couple of days.

Front yard. The old tree looks more interesting every year. Old and gnarled. I think that makes it more beautiful.